| Author | Message | ||
     Steveford |
The Mighty Useless has developed a rather ominious rattling noise from the front cylinder at 109,000 miles. Quiet when cold, sounds like marbles when hot. They don't make 'em like they used to. Hunka junk. It doesn't sound like it's in the primary but I could be wrong. Some crazy woman swiped my gigantic cheapie Harbor Freight 1" torque wrench, of course. Stay away from red heads, they're just nuts. I did two flushes with Gunk Engine Medic and am now waiting on yet another oil cooler and we'll see what happens. I'm thinking con rod bearing. (Message edited by SteveFord on October 24, 2017) | ||
| Ourdee |
Thicker oil help? I have heard on V-8s that if it is a low pitched rattle or clunking, you can get away with running it for quite a while. Let's hear from a real mechanic. | ||
| Steveford |
I'll know more once the oil cooler shows up. Mobil 1 15W50 is what I've been running for the past 105,000. I'm also going to pull the primary cover and make sure the front sprocket nut is tight as can be. It should be as I torqued it with Red Loctite quite some time ago but who knows. | ||
| Tootal |
That nut had an updated torque spec. If you torqued it at the original spec. it could have loosened up. I did the same thing hoping the red loctite would hold up and so far it has. I hope yours didn't! Just for cheaps sake! | ||
| Sagehawk |
A note from automotive side. Mazda had been on mobil 1 from 95000 to 270000. Some dry start conditions being noted, valve lash adjusters rattling, and a couple of times rods knocking. Since 270000, I've gone back to Dino oil at 3000 mile oil changes. Almost at 282000 now, and problems have ceased for now. Now on other hand, flhr I've been stripping has been on Dino oil always, and I believe I've lost the front rod bearing in it. So , who knows. Do what you feel for your machine and see how it turns out. | ||
| Teeps |
Bad lifter? | ||
| Etennuly |
STP, or Lucas additives. Pint of your two and a half quart oil change. For me syn oils were awful noisy in the rock crusher. Switched to Rotella dino 15/40 adding the goo in summer months to emulate running straight 60. Been quiet and smooth. Always happy to fire up and go. No smoke very little oil loss between changes. | ||
| Hugie03flhr |
With that kinda mileage, it might be a rocker arm bushing. I would say get the mechanic stethoscope out to narrow it down. | ||
| Steveford |
The noise is down low up front left, stays consistent with engine speed so I ordered a replacement 300 Ft/lb. torque wrench for the one my old mistress swiped, crazy lady that she is. Look, I have a trophy... Maybe I'll luck out and it's just that nut has loosened up. I sure hope so, this old pile has been fighting me for years! I think I'll try Etennuly's trick as well and see if that won't let me nurse it a bit further before the heart transplant. I like the bike too much just to give up even though I know I should. | ||
| Ourdee |
I believe it means she didn't have closure and is still emotionally attached. You are not wired or equipped to think the way she thinks. More like "Look what I have to hit him with". | ||
| Steveford |
Ourdee, That is why God made fast motorcycles - for our escape! | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
The motor honey stuff probably won't do much for a roller bearing bottom end. If it's that, I mean. | ||
| Steveford |
I got up real early this morning, pulled the primary cover and nothing was loose, discovered that the gasket they sent me has a hole in the wrong place (idiots!) so reused the old primary cover gasket, put it back together and so far, so good, no more weird knocking noises when hot. Maybe the chain was too loose, that's the only thing that makes any sense. 110,000 mile service partially completed! The last 10,000 miles have been trying my patience. Hopefully the replacement oil cooler will finally show up today and then all will be well with the Mighty Useless. | ||
| Ourdee |
Long live the Mighty Useless! | ||
| Steveford |
It's not dead, it just smells funny. Tomorrow I need to reset the timing, reset the TPS and see if I can't get the idle to behave. I got lazy and didn't verify the timing when I put it back together and, of course, I have to drill out the rivets and do it the right way like I knew I should have in the first place. Can't blame the bike for this one! Spot on timing really is the trick for getting these bikes to run properly and I know better. Clodhopper than I am sometimes. | ||
| Tootal |
Tap those holes with a 10-32 tap and use a couple of stainless button head screws in there. No need to drill anymore rivets! |
