| Author | Message | ||
     Arry |
Time to put on new tires, and the rear wheel bearings feel rough, again. I've got the brake side bearing out, and now both bearings feel fine. While they are assembled in the wheel, they are turning together (because they are tight against the spacer). Now, feeling them individually, they both feel good. Maybe they were OK...? Maybe should have left them alone...? | ||
| Teeps |
Probably. Probably yes. | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
Only way to feel/hear if the bearings still turning smooth is spinning the wheel in the bike without the belt on. | ||
| Nillaice |
Well, since you've allready go them out, I'd hesitate to press in a bearing of questionable integrity. I just noticed mine were feeling notchy and ordered some SKF 6006 2RSJEM C3's via Amazon. Wheel bearings seem to give out at Inconvenient times and locations. | ||
| Cyclone8u |
Mine were rough as heck in the wheels and smooth as butter out. I think when they are pressed in the wheel there's a certain amount of lateral preload on them until you torque them down (hence the very specific wheel torqueing procedure. Out of the wheel theres no lateral pressure at all. My guess is they're junk and I'd replace them. | ||
| Sagehawk |
I was rolling my bike out of garage backwards when I heard the clicking. That's the sign for me rear bearings were gone. | ||
| Griffmeister |
Technically, unless you got the wheel hot enough for the first bearing to fall out on its own, you would have had to push or pull on the inner race to remove it. Supposedly this side load can cause microscopic damage to the bearing that will shorten it's life. That's what they say anyhow. You're already there, might as well replace them anyway. | ||
| Arry |
I checked the bearings with the wheel off the bike, supporting the wheel with my fingers (as an axle), and giving the wheel a spin. They felt rough enough, in this manner, that I thought they were going bad (again). Maybe checking with the wheel on the bike (belt removed) would be a better check... (?) I only removed the brake side bearing, and the drive side bearing feels really good. I will probably just use a spare (new) bearing, and put it together (leaving the drive side alone). | ||
| Blake |
Clicking when pushing bike backwards is bad bearings? | ||
| Sagehawk |
Twas on uellymae! No noise day before when backing bike out of garage to go to work. It clicked that day and I put bike back in garage. Next morning was time to jack bike up , pull wheel , found right bearing verge of coming apart, left side not so bad. | ||
| Ourdee |
When I lost both rear bearings near the factory, I could feel the clicking in my feet from the pegs. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Rode mine all day in heavy rain and parked it in my garage (French for car-hole). The next day, I pulled it back and rear clicked. Popped seals off with a pick and they were full of water. Dealership accused me of crossing rivers. (Was under warranty) All I had to tell them was: "Remember three days ago when it rained all day? I went to Troy, NY and Bennington, VT and Keene, NH and Hampton, NH. Then I rode home" | ||
| Ulywood57 |
2006 Ulysses: My rear wheel bearings failed on the interstate, not good. Pulled the wheel and found a real mess. Pulley side bearing was disintegrated and the spacer was chewed up. I have replacement bearings but I cannot find a new spacer. Any suggestions? | ||
| Hugie03flhr |
I just did mine a few months ago and I popped the seals off the new bearings. I found one had grease the other was virtually dry. I think many of the bearing problems on hear are due to quality control. I've owned motorcycles for over 35 year, from dirtbikes to goldwings and never had a bearing failure until a bought this Ulysses. Just my $.02 , take the seals off with a pick and use good quality grease. I used synthetic marine bearing grease. | ||
| Tootal |
I would research this site for the length of the spacer. I think somebody put that info out there. Anyway, go to a local machine shop and give them an inside and outside diameter along with the length and have them make one out of stainless steel if they have it. If not regular mild steel will work, just wipe it down with grease so it doesn't rust. Shouldn't cost much as the ID and OD just need to be close, as long as the ID will allow the axle to slide through. | ||
| Nillaice |
I just changed my rear wheel bearings and made 3 spacers while I had it out of the wheel and in hand for reference. Just shy of 8 inches long +_ 0.002" ID has to be big enough for the axle (30 mm) OD should be small enough to keep it from rubbing against the bearing seals | ||
| Hughlysses |
From a post a few years ago by Al Lighton: Rear Spacer Tube: 202.8 +/- 0.05 mm, 7.984 +/- 0.002 inch long | ||
| Phelan |
Spacers are still available new from HD for about $13 each. | ||
| Mtz117 |
Spacer spec mm and inch Rear Spacer Tube: 202.8 +/- 0.05 mm, 7.984 +/- 0.002 inch Front Spacer Tube: 107.9 +/- 0.05mm, 4.248 +/- 0.002 inch | ||
| Mtz117 |
Shit, Hugh beat me to it | ||
| Ulywood57 |
Thank you, I appreciate the input. Need to find a HD dealer that will order the part if is around $13.00...There weren't any dealers nearby that sold the Buells so I was looking for one online without success; if not, I will seek to create one from the above dimensions. Thanks all, you're the best! | ||
| Ourdee |
All HD dealers are allowed to order Buell parts now. |
