| Author | Message | ||
     Guebert3 |
Okay, guys! I started this on the XBoard and decided to move it over here. The best way to describe this problem is to tell a story of what happened. I took a trip from St. Louis to deals gap last weekend. On the way down, cruising at 80 miles an hour, the check engine light came on and it started running rough for about five seconds. Then it would return to normal and ride fine for another hour or so. Then it would do it again. We stopped and tightened the positive battery cable. This seemed to stop the problem. The following day, we rode about 30 miles of dirt trails and took off towards deals gap. About a mile from the Dragon, the bike just died. It did not want to start immediately. We took the seat off and looked for electrical connections that were loose. We did not find any. We put everything together in the bike started and ran fine for the next 45 minutes. After we made it through the Dragon, we took off towards the skyway. About 20 miles into the trip, the bike died again. Once again, it was hard to start. Once it started, it made it about 400 yards before it died again. We stopped at a local cycle shop and could not find anything. We then rode about 40 more miles and it died again. After that, it would only make it a mile or so at a time before it would die. We limped it back to the campsite, and stripped down as much as we could with the tools we had. We still cannot find anything, and put everything back together. The following day we headed for home. We made it 25 miles to the gas station and refueled. From there, it made it another 30 miles or so and died on the freeway again. After that, it would only go about half a mile at a time before it would die again. From there, we hauled it home. I now have almost the entire electrical system exposed and cannot find any loose grounds or exposed wires. I cannot seem to figure out what would cause such an intermittent issue. Any thoughts? | ||
| Sagehawk |
Does the camshaft position sensor have a melted look to some of it? | ||
| Guebert3 |
Not that I could tell. I'll look deeper tonight. | ||
| Ratbuell |
When it's dying and not wanting to restart, do you hear the fuel pump cycle when you toggle the kill switch? | ||
| Teeps |
Check for DTCs? What year is the bike? How many miles on the bike? | ||
| Steveford |
What is the historic trouble code it threw? | ||
| Guebert3 |
After further inspecting, the CPS looks a little funny. I don't see any damage or melting of the sensor itself, but the green putty around the wires seems to be broken down and bubbly. I can't upload a pic because it says the file size is too big. Side note: it never stored a code. The bike is an 06 w/ 53k miles. | ||
| Guebert3 |
Also, the fuel pump cycles normally after it dies. It usually starts right back up, but sometimes it wouldn't start up right away. I hate that it isn't throwing a code either. | ||
| Sagehawk |
Take a heat gun and wave at cps. See if you have changes . Better than just changing it out blindly. Had one on 96 road king did that. Intrmittent cutting out. Hard to start. Dunc said anytime you see epoxy backing or the housing itself look different than when it was new, go change it. No need to be on road broke down. | ||
| Akbuell |
Well, Drat and Hooray. Drat that it failed, and Hooray that you found it. The CPS should not be green and bubbly, so it seems you have found the problem. A CPS failure will allow normal functions except for running, as the ECU will not get signals to 'fire' the fuel injectors, so no fuel to the engine. If needed, check with Lance at St Paul H-D for parts. | ||
| Guebert3 |
Thanks, guys! I hope the only thing you hear from me from now on is good news! haha | ||
| Guebert3 |
Well, I replaced the CPS... no dice... it still left me stranded on the way home tonight. I took it out for about 30 minutes before it started acting up. Once it started dying, I could only make it about a mile at a time before it would die again. However, while I was stopped, I left the key on. After sitting for about a minute, the fuel pump randomly turned on. The bike fired right up afterwards and made it about another half mile. Then it did it again. I really wish there was someone in the St. Louis area that had an ECM I could throw on here to see if that is the problem! Haha | ||
| Tootal |
Alex, I'm in Collinsville and have an 06 Uly. I can pull my ecm and let you borrow it. PM me if you want to meet up. I'm busy today but will be around tomorrow day if need be. | ||
| Ratbuell |
If your fuel pump is doing weird power cycles...it could be a pump wire. Do a search and you'll find various instances of (I think) rubbed ground wires at the pump. | ||
| Motorfish |
I pulled out my fuel pump at around 17k miles, on my `06. The wires where worn. I can`t remember if they were worn to the copper, but I re-routed, and insulated them. The bike was running good anyway. I also had the CEL come on at around 75-80mph. It would go out if I slowed down a bit. I retrieved a code 13 in stored code history, so I replaced the O2 sensor with a Bosch. I`ve put about 2k miles on with no problems. I would start by checking for historic codes. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
There was a recall for moving the tip over switch up under the tail. Has this been done already? Engine heat was roasting them or something. | ||
| Arry |
Guebert, If you borrow a ECM, you will have to have a way to do a TPS reset. The ECM's do cause a wide variety of symptoms, when they start going bad, so that could be the problem. In a different thread , "Engine Dies at Speed" (about 16 topics down), there is a company discussed, IDS (idspd.com) that works with and supplies ECM's for Buells. You could give them a call and describe your symptoms and see what they say. You still would need a way to do a TPS reset. | ||
| Tootal |
I have ecm spy if you don't already. | ||
| Etennuly |
I fixed a similar problem on three different 06 XB bikes. Each had an ignition power lead wire running between the bottom of the engine and the muffler that pulled tight around some brackets. As the insulation wore thinner the gradually got worse with each engine beat cycle. It would kill the engine then restart after it cooled a bit. Worth a look. | ||
| Tootal |
In the interest of continuity I'll pass on what was done yesterday. I met up with Alex and as we talked I found out his father is a machinist at the beer factory I'm retired from and he has worked with my brother who is still there. Small world indeed! I located my old race ecm that I didn't care for. I hooked up ecmspy and looked at the codes and there were a couple. Looks like BAS left a code and also the temp sensor in the air cleaner. The BAS worried me since this bike has not had the recall done on it. However, it does have the comfort kit so it's not getting as hot as it normally would. I went to set the tps on the race ecm but we couldn't get the idle screw to move so we had to take it all apart and pull the cables mounts out to get some pliers on it. I found the cables had one broken wire each so that's now on the list. We got the screw loose and were able to get it back together. I then looked at the throttle shaft and it was one of mine!! So we were finally able to do a tps reset and got the bike running. It's been raining cats and dogs here and it's continuing through the weekend so we'll find out if the ecm was the problem when the sun returns. Thanks Vern for the suggestion. If this doesn't fix it I think the BAS is next and then we'll go after the wire you speak of. I'm curious, can you just disconnect the BAS to take it out? Can you short it out? I'd just like to find a cheap way to remove it from the equation. | ||
| Sagehawk |
Tootal: are you running spy version 2? If so, just disable bas. I don't remember being able to do that in version one. With bike stone cold, shoot fuel frame with laser thermometer, not temp. Then, with spy running , see what iat and clt are. Most of the time on my 07x, they are within 4 to 5 degrees of each other. This has been consistent over several years time. True, it's only checking the bottom range of temps but all three should be close as a baseline. Once running, all three will go in their own direction. Clt will take 5 to 7 minutes to hit 160 degrees. It takes no time with fan on, motor off to cool back down. When I datalogged the other day, I went for a 15 minute ride to start with, then went home and hooked computer up. According to log , it was still 3 minutes before I got back to 160 c. Sorry bout thread wander but sometimes all kinds of info can get you thinking in a different direction that might lead to a solution for the immediate problem. Can you get a datalog when bike does run? | ||
| Tootal |
I have version 1 still. The free one. I got a text from him last night and he said something about an emergency and needed to sell the bike quick so he wants the race ecm out and reset his original ecm so he can sell as is. I'll see what's up when I do that. | ||
| Guebert3 |
Tootal deserves a HUGE shoutout! He is awesome and helped me out tremendously. I still have the Uly (and his race ECM). Anyone know where I can get an ECM that isn't over $400? | ||
| Guebert3 |
Side Note: Anyone want a fully decked out Uly for $2750 before I do that? haha | ||
| Tootal |
You can order this: https://sphdonline.com/collections/ulysses-models/ products/y0152-3a8-genuine-buell-ecm-2003-2007-xb- models-u9e but you will need to have a dealer flash it. It's a blank ecm. |
