| Author | Message | ||
     Snoman |
I already have a set of Polly heaters installed in my '07 Uly that I have been running from a separate controller (Reepisheep) and am planning to wire to an '08+ RH switch block (on order). Can anyone save me a little time by letting me know which wires are which on the new block? I should have bought the kit from Al at American Sport Bike, but missed my opportunity... | ||
| Reepicheep |
This may help.  | ||
| Reepicheep |
Just for anyone else following the thread... There are two versions of the Polly heater cartridges you can buy. One has two wires and one element, so it has just two settings, "off" and "aaaahaiaiaiahghghhgh". The other has three wires and two elements. It has three settings: "off", "too hot", and "aigghhhghgghhgh make it stop". You could theoretically make a third setting by running both elements at once, but dude, seriously. The advantage of the polly cartridges is that they never move once installed, and they don't replace your grips. So the wire on the throttle side isn't wearing, the grips themselves can be replaced without replacing the heating element, and you can use whatever grips you want instead of being stuck with a smaller hard grip with integrated element. And the Polly heaters are really cheap, like $20 to $30. Another downside of the pollys' is that it also likely takes the polly heaters more time to get the heat out the hand. All things considered, the 2008 factory setup is simple, reliable, and effective. The downsides are that you have to manually play with the switch to keep things comfortable (but that's easy with your thumb), that you are stuck with the factory grip (which I find too small and too hard), and the fact that the factory setup bends a wire every time you touch the throttle (meaning it will eventually fail). Not sure how long they are good for on the Buell, but on other bikes with other similar setup, they become an annual maintenance issue, and the grips with integrated heaters aren't cheap to replace. | ||
| Etennuly |
I have always been happy with my poly heaters. When it is below freezing I wear my heaviest gloves to insulate my hands from the heat of the poly heater on HI as much as from the cold on the back of my hands. | ||
| Arcticktm |
Not trying to argue with Reepi, but I don't think the OEM setup should present an annual maintenance issue. I did my own hybrid on the Uly (used stick on heater elements on the handlebars, like a snowmobile or older bike setup, but bought the '08 switchgear to put on my '06 and did my own "radioshack" wiring connection) and it works well for me. My '14 KTM has the OE heaters added, which are also the Buell OE type with elements molded into new grips. there is a pretty decent strain relief molded over the wires, and it certainly has lasted longer than 1 year already. Perhaps it will die tomorrow, but I don't think it is a huge risk unless you simply hate the grips that come with it. that said, the Polly's always seemed like a nice way to go and I almost went that way before reverting back to my snowmobile roots and getting Symtec heater elements. I was concerned the Polly's would take too long to heat up, especially on the throttle side with the sleeve and air gap acting as an insulator. Never actually tried them though, so maybe my perception is wrong. By the way, if you go the stick-on-the bar heater element route, I strongly recommend using the (a bit more expensive) type that has multiple elements to achieve hi/lo rather than the cheapest type that simply uses a resistor (potted in some ceramic material). when I replaced my bars (post crash) I had to replace the left side element only, so I bought the cheaper kit without realizing it. Finding a place for the resistor (which gets very hot of course) was a pain, and it seems fragile. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I actually agree with you Tim. The XT I bought has 35k on it now, with (AFAIK) the origional factory grips. No sign of the wire failing. My observation was for others I have known that had other aftermarket grip heaters and would (like clockwork) repair the wire or replace the heater every fall. It did require Buell to use very hard plastic on the grips though, which I don't like. Now that Al is out of business, I can "out" an alternate supplier for the grips I like (that he also sold). I was using these on my dirtbikes long before I noticed Al also sold them: https://www.denniskirk.com/pro-grip/714-dual-sport -grips.p590120.prd/590120.sku Cheap, simple, soft, and grippy. But not heated. Heck, they are probably soft enough that you could cut them and use them as sleeves for the factory heated grips. Maybe I'll get a set and try. | ||
| Motorfish |
I used the hi/low Polly heaters with this controller: https://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-LED-Strip-Li ghts-Controller/dp/B003L4KKF2/ref=pd_sim_60_1?ie=U TF8&psc=1&refRID=A1MKWNDERP6YS4GNATMA I relocated the potentiometer by drilling a hole in the dash which is partially protected by the windshield, and extended the wire. I sealed the hole in the box with silicone, and also on the terminal strip. I fed the controller off of the aux plug, and only used the low wire on the heaters, capping off the wire for the high setting. I was able to mount the box under the fairing. I`m really happy with the way it came out, and how they work. I might have mounted the pot in another location, as it`s a little bit difficult to turn the knob because I have the Memphis Shades lowers, but it`s not that bad. I have not used them a real lot, but when I have they where nice. I got the idea off of advrider, and was amazed how cheap this was. http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/diy-heat-con troller-for-heated-gear.519318/ I`ll try to post a pict of the knob location. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Even a closed loop controller only requires about $15 worth of electronics, so an open loop controller like that one can be very cheap and still work great. | ||
| Motorfish |
Sorry for the delay, but here`s some picts of the control knob I located on the side of the fairing. If I did it again, I would try to located it facing up on the dash.   Sorry they`re sideways, I`m technically challenged. |
