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Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » Archive through October 10, 2016 » Neutral safety switch question « Previous Next »

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Cincymachine
Posted on Wednesday, June 29, 2016 - 05:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What are the sign of a bad switch besides not having the light work??

Thanks ahead
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Teeps
Posted on Wednesday, June 29, 2016 - 06:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Starter will not turn over with the clutch lever released.
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Cincymachine
Posted on Wednesday, June 29, 2016 - 06:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Is that it??
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Dtaylor
Posted on Wednesday, June 29, 2016 - 06:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Carefully pull the plug off the neutral switch. Use a paper clip or a piece of wire or something to ground the neutral switch wire (key on).

If your neutral light lights up, the switch is faulty. If it doesn't, then it is likely that the bulb is burnt out or the circuit has a break in it somewhere.
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Skifastbadly
Posted on Monday, July 04, 2016 - 02:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well, I was going to start a new thread but this one is close enough, I guess. My problems started as a child. But THIS problem started with a starter. I replaced the starter on my 08 Uly about a year ago,and man was that ever a lot of screwing around. I had just purchased an '14 Triumph Explorer, so I had another ride. Anyway, after replacing the starter and putting everything back together again, I started experiencing strange behavior in the shifting. Initially, everything was fine until the transmission got hot and then it became really difficult to downshift. I assumed, as most would, that I had improperly adjusted the tension on the primary chain, so I went back and re-adjusted it. (It's really quite difficult to measure and that rolling the bike around to find different points...sheesh.) It still wasn't quite right, so then I thought that perhaps I hadn't properly adjusted the clutch, so I went through that whole process....loosen the cable, remove the cover, locking nut, spring, etc. When I put it all back together, the damned neutral light wouldn't illuminate and the bike wouldn't crank. Not being a *complete* idiot, I figured I must have somehow caused the bike to now not know it was in neutral. So I went through the process again, and voila! I got the green light and the bike started and everything,I thought, was fine. So, I put it back in the garage for a spell (and neglected to re-connect the trickle charger) and then recently when I went to start it after being off the charger for a week, nothing. But after leaving the key on for awhile it showed more inclination to turn over. A multi-meter measurement showed that the battery (which at this point is five years old) needed replacement, so on Saturday I shashayed down to the local pirate hangout and bought a new battery. Put it in the bike and guess what? No neutral indication. Measured the battery and it showed 12.3 volts, even though new. I put it on the charger, no dice. Then I moved the bike a bit to put it back in the garage but it wasn't in neutral. I tried to start it one more time and it fired up but still no green light. I went through the entire clutch adjustment process again, it starts but no light. Next step is to follow the test as outlined above, but there's something else going on it seems.

Any ideas?
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Reepicheep
Posted on Monday, July 04, 2016 - 02:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'd start with electrical tests of the sensor, and go from there. Not because that is most likely the problem, but because it is easiest to test.
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Griffmeister
Posted on Monday, July 04, 2016 - 11:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ski, really sounds like something didn't line up right when the primary cover was put back on, but still rather strange symptoms. Stupid question, did you use a Buell gasket or did you find a Sportster one with the same shape? Sometimes gasket thickness can have odd effects. As far as the neutral light, could the wire have become partly grounded when moving things around to fix the starter?
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Skifastbadly
Posted on Wednesday, July 06, 2016 - 04:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Used a Buell gasket. No leaks. I'll test the sensor in the next few days. It's definitely weird. Like a lot of things Buell.
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Tribe29
Posted on Friday, July 08, 2016 - 04:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

on one of my Uly's 06 or 07 I just wired the switch at the clutch together so the bike always thinks the clutch is in so will always start for me since my neutral light doesn't work and i haven't trouble shot it yet (if ever as long as this works) Sorry Doesn't sound like a solution for you though.
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Brother_in_buells
Posted on Saturday, July 09, 2016 - 06:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The neutral switch on my 12s quit working after one or two years i got the bike.
I got a new switch back then but never installed it ,and it does not bother me at all that there is no neutral light in the dash.
And btw ,stuck in neutral is getting you nowhere ,so avoid that at all Times!

If your clutch is adjusted the way it should it goes in neutral very smooth and there is no light needed.
Only thing is that you have to pull the clutch lever when starting the bike.
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Skifastbadly
Posted on Tuesday, July 12, 2016 - 01:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I think there's something else going on. Battery fully charged, the bike is clearly in neutral as I can roll it around, but not only is the light not on, it won't turn over even with the clutch in. Weird. I'll go through the entire clutch adjustment process again, that has to have something to do with it.
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Mark_weiss
Posted on Tuesday, July 12, 2016 - 02:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I had a Suzuki GSXR 750 which had a diode in the starter circuit. When the diode went bad, the neutral light stopped working and sometimes would not start at all. Buells have diodes?
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Arry
Posted on Tuesday, July 12, 2016 - 02:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ski, Just ahead of your first post, Dtaylor gives a good test for the neut. sw. Did you try that? You might have a problem with both switches (neut. & clutch).
Beings your problem started after having the primary cover off, could it be something with the shifting mechanism? Does it shift smooth and easy? If you can support the bike, with the rear wheel slightly off the ground, you can check the shift action (not running, and rolling the rear wheel back and forth a little). It should shift easily and smoothly, operating the shifter by hand
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Roconroad
Posted on Wednesday, July 13, 2016 - 03:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

hello all im also having some problems with my neutral light .I have 08 uly and during my 5000 km trip the bike would shift into neutral and the light wont come on when hot.bike goes into neutral,when I let the clutch out the bike idles at around 1400 rpm,when clutch pulled in idle returns to 1050.neutral light comes on after bike cools down. 40,000km on the bike.have to pull in the clutch to start when hot.
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Skifastbadly
Posted on Saturday, July 23, 2016 - 04:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok well I finally got around to testing the indicator. That wire is hard to get off, and harder to get on. Right behind the sprocket, thanks. Anyway, no light when grounded so it's not the switch right? So thinking I'd once more re-do the clutch adjustment I started to loosen the clutch cable. But because I'm a dummy, I turned the adjuster the wrong way and ended up tightening it. "Hmmm," sez I, "am I going the right way here? I think I'll go squeeze the clutch lever and see if it's looser." No it's not looser. It's less looser. And...the damned green light is on. So apparently the problem all along has been insufficiently tight clutch cable. So if you're feeling dumb someday, come and read this post again and you'll feel like a genius. You're welcome.
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