| Author | Message | ||
     Motorbike |
Guys, I have been having a few problems with the charging system on my 08 XB12XT. If I go on a leisurely 200 mile ride, for example, and make a few stops for any reason, the bike just barely turns over enough to start after about the 3rd start. I replaced the battery and this was a waste of money, no difference at all. I checked the voltage at the battery with the engine running and even at 3,000 RPM, I barely get over battery voltage, never close to 14V or so. I then followed the procedures in my Electrical Diagnostic Manual to test the stator and regulator. The stator ohmed out fine and running voltage was at or above specs. Also did the sniff test at the primary inspection port and all I could smell was Amsoil 20W-50, no burnt smell at all. I then did a diode test on the regulator using a procedure I found on Roadstercycles website and it appears the regulator is shot. Also noted some blistering or broken areas on the potting material on the backside of the regulator, may be heat damage, not sure. I'm guessing that thing gets extremely hot while I'm stuck idling in traffic during 95 degree days. I called to order a new reg from my local dealer and they said the regulator is on back-order and was supposed to clear May 31. I called again yesterday and they said it should clear on June 3. I have a feeling that H-D just keeps moving the date out as needed to pacify the customers. I'm not sure if they will ever get my new regulator. My question is, do you guys think I should wait and see if they ever get any stock replacement regulators or should I order the Shindengen regulator and adapt that to work? It would be no problem to fabricate a new mount or wire it into the system. Just not sure if I want to go that route or not. What do you think? Also, once I get this fixed, I want to install some type of voltage monitor so I can keep an eye on things each time I ride. I am strongly considering the Kuryakin monitor, as some of you already have installed on your bikes. I like the fact that I would be able to keep an eye on things as I ride. For those of you that have them on your XB, does that monitor fit on the flat area of the front master cylinder or is it too big? Also, is it too bright that it would be distracting while running? Thank you in advance for any help or opinions you may have. Take care and ride safe. (Message edited by motorbike on June 04, 2016) | ||
| Hughlysses |
I installed a Shindengen from Roadstercycle a couple of months ago. I kept the stock Uly wiring harness and went with the regulator kit with "pigtails" included. Note this regulator works with either single phase or 3-phase stators. It's a bit of a hassle to make an adapter bracket to mount it, but there are a couple of threads here on doing it. Several of us installed the Signal Dynamics voltage monitor, which uses a single color-changing LED to indicate the voltage level. You can even install it using an unused idiot light socket in the stock instrument cluster so it looks stock. The are a couple of threads on how to do that. | ||
| Motorbike |
Thanks Hughlysses, are those short wires from the Shindengen regulator long enough to reach the stock wires that come from my stator? It appears to me that they might be just a few inches short on my 08 with the single phase stator. I would like to wire the regulator in with as few of connections as possible for obvious reasons. I would crimp and solder each connection. Also, the Roadstercycle kits include a circuit breaker but this seems unnecessary as my 08 has a fuse in the hot wire to the battery. The circuit breaker would be redundant. | ||
| Griffmeister |
I put the Shindengen on my 08 earlier this year. I did post a couple of pics on one of the recent threads on the subject of the mount I made, others posted with some different mounting options too. Yeah, I got the pigtails and did find that one ended up too short, I just cannibalized some wire from the old VR. Of course when you order the new VR you can request longer wire at a minimal upcharge. Roadstercycle recommends running the output wires directly to the battery which is why they include the circuit breaker. I used the lazy approach and stuck with the OEM setup, but I can see their point. Just be sure to remove excess connectors and splice the wires together to avoid poor contact areas, the new VR has it's own plugs that you can disconnect for removal when doing other repairs or checking stator, etc. | ||
| Ratbuell |
...and the shindengan is a "standard" piece so in the unlikely event it fails...it'll be an easier replacement then. I put one on my 06 a while back and love it. My 95 S2 has given me a couple wonky readings on the kuryakyn meter lately, if they keep up I'm putting one on it too. | ||
| Twisteduly |
Look at this, another XT needing a regulator. It was about this time last year about 6 of us XT owners got bit, several threads out there. I recommend the SHindegren unit from Roadster, the materials he uses are much better than you can buy locally. So think about what you want to do, and order the extra bits and pieces from him. I ordered the "full kit" with the CB ext. when I did mine, but I decided to use the existing wiring from the factory connectors back to the fuse block and stator. When I checked how it was done at the factory, the only difference is its fused instead of a CB. I didnt feel the need to run duplicate wiring, it was already done. I have mine mounted to the oil cooler bracket, no interference with steering on an XT that I can see and its away from engine heat. My theory with the XT failures has to do with the fact we dont have the beak fender directing the air to cool the factory regulator. Its just my theory - but why so many 08 XT's? | ||
| Motorbike |
I just went ahead and ordered the Super Kit from Roadstercycles with extensions for the stator wires and also the battery wires. I am still undecided as to whether I will run the new wires directly to the battery or crimp and solder into the original harness. I don't really like the idea of adding more loop terminals under the battery cables and Battery Tender loops. These bikes have enough problems with battery connections as is. I most likely will just crimp and solder the wires directly from the new reg to the original harness wires. In that case, I would not be using the circuit breaker but at least I'll have it if I decide to run the wires all the way up. By the way, I called and spoke to Jack at Roadstercycles.com. He was very helpful and willing to set up my order any way that I need it so it works for me. Nice guy! I better get working on the new mounting bracket.... | ||
| Motorbike |
Twisteduly, that's interesting. I am wondering how many people have gotten by with only replacing the regulator and how many had to replace the stator as well as the regulator? Also, does anyone know if the CE-6014 3- phase stator that Roadstercycle sells will fit on and 08 or later XB that has a single phase stator from the factory? Can that stator replace my stock one if needed? What would be the advantage of 3 phase over single phase? I'm sure that Roastercycle's stator is much less expensive than the stocker from H-D. Thanks guys! | ||
| Tootal |
I changed the VR one time and blew it up because I didn't check the stator. I then tested the stator and it was a FAIL! So I got to buy two VR's! Since you checked the stator you should be ok. My new stator has been fine ever since with over 40,000 miles on it now. | ||
| Hugie03flhr |
Just a question, isn't the regulator a standard Sportster regulator??? Or does Buell run something special? | ||
| Hughlysses |
It's probably the same regulator, but the leads may be a different length. I don't know that anyone's ever compared them. | ||
| Tootal |
I believe the mounting screws are in a different location. | ||
| Newportmike |
What Hugh said. My VR failed as well. Just go with the Shindengen. You'll have 30-60 min fabricating a mount, but it's easy. Also highly recommend any voltage monitor. I have the Signal Dynamics one but there are others out there. I just drilled a hole in the dash to the right of the indicator lights, painted the exposed aluminum black and epoxied it in place. Great "at a glance" indicator. | ||
| Ourdee |
I use a Gammatronix single LED 6v, 12v, 24v Battery level voltage monitor meter.  https://estore-sslserver.eu/gammatronixltd.com/epages/bae94c71-c5b6-4572-89a1-e89006e78fbe.sf/sec926e2adcc2/?ObjectPath=/Shops/bae94c71-c5b6-4572-89a1-e89006e78fbe/Products/J It has 6 programs that change the ranges that you are checking. I use #1 for normal day to day use.  | ||
| Motorbike |
Ourdee, that looks really interesting! Nice and small but it should do the trick. How many US dollars? Guys, I ordered the Shindengen MOSFET VR on Sunday and it arrived Wednesday with all the correct wiring etc. just as I ordered it. Great service from Roadstercycles.com! I fabricated my own mounting system from a piece of 1/8" aluminum, some spacers and stainless screws etc. I'm not really sure I like the chrome spacers but they were readily available at a local home center. (I'm sure the Harley Chrome Gods are looking favorably upon me now!) The new regulator has to be mounted approximately 1" forward of the stock mount to provide clearance for the wiring and connectors. I used 3/8" spacers between the aluminum plate and the original mounting surface. I then used 1/2" spacers between the aluminum plate and the new regulator. This allowed me to place a couple of stainless Nyloc nuts in back for the buttonhead Allen screws that mount the regulator. The mount is very solid and after a 50 mile test ride today in the 91 degree heat, I could easily touch the regulator, it was barely even warm. Lots of air space around it. Some might say it needs to be mounted against a flat surface to act as a heat sink but I will have to disagree on that. I crimped and soldered all the wires and shrink wrapped the connections. I decided to splice the regulator battery wires into the bike wiring harness rather than trying to run the wires all the way to the battery. I also ordered the 1/2" wire sheathing and slid that over as much of the wiring as possible. I fired the bike up and grabbed my voltmeter to see if this all works. It read 14.2 volts after about 10 seconds of running and so I went for a ride. Checked it again when I got back and the voltage was at about 13.2 idling but slowly climbed up to 14 with a few seconds of higher RPM's. Not sure if that is all right but I'm guessing the voltage was a little lower after running a while as the battery was already at full charge? The standing voltage on my new DEKA battery read 13 volts with the key off so that seems good to me. Please let me know if any of you have experience with this stuff. Here are a few pics of the project:      (Message edited by motorbike on June 11, 2016) | ||
| Motorfish |
Really nice job! | ||
| Ourdee |
This one is $18.27 USD including shipping; http://www.ebay.com/itm/6v-12v-24v-LED-Battery-lev el-voltage-monitor-meter-J-/200627678428?hash=item 2eb6576cdc:g:8bgAAOxyOlhS2Hp8 It is the "meter J". Read the size, it's not small. The brightness is not obnoxious. | ||
| Ourdee |
 This is where I mounted it on my Scg. | ||
| Griffmeister |
Looks similar to my mount, except for the lack of dirt. How the hell do you keep that bike so clean? | ||
| Teeps |
I have this one https://estore-sslserver.eu/gammatronixltd.com/epa ges/bae94c71-c5b6-4572-89a1-e89006e78fbe.sf/en_GB/ ?ObjectPath=/Shops/bae94c71-c5b6-4572-89a1-e89006e 78fbe/Products/K it works great... And, with a little work I was able to mount it inside the instrument cluster with the other indicators. | ||
| Reepicheep |
If anyone cares, I built one from a pic (and could trivially code one up for an arduino) that was also this single tri color LED idiot light. My version monitored for anaomolies (high or low), and when it saw something odd it would go into a "burst mode" and make about 10,000 measurements a second for about 5 seconds, then "blink out" the worst measurement seen in the form of a trouble code. $15 worth of parts, and simple but not trivial assembly. and packaging the things to be installable and weatherproof is actually the biggest hassle. So if you just want a sensor, buy one already built with good packaging. But if somebody is looking for an excuse to learn about the Arduino platform, I'll be happy to make a thread here where we work through it together and document it as a kind of interactive instructable. It's a lot of fun. | ||
| Teeps |
motorbike, your bike is way too clean... how do you do it? | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
He showers with it at least once per day. My bike didn't leave the factory that clean. | ||
| Ourdee |
Clean bike like a desk is a sign of a sick mind. | ||
| Motorbike |
I like the simple, clean look of the Gammatronix voltage monitor but I do have a question about it. If I drill a hole to mount it in the dash, how do I get at the little switch to change the mode, should I decide to do so? Or is that not how you change the mode? I'll admit I like to keep my bike clean, always have. I deal with OCD quite a bit and get picked on frequently for trying so hard to keep my vehicles clean. I'm used to it and don't mind cleaning the bike but it is often hard to find time to do it. Now I have a job driving a semi-truck delivering steel and work some real long days. Not much time to ride the bike or clean it anymore. I currently have a little over 21,000 miles on it. Thanks! | ||
| Teeps |
You are correct, if you install the indicator in the cluster like mine. Access to the mode button will be impossible without further modification to the cluster. Which would surely compromise the weather resistance of the design. The model indicator I have is single mode/function, no button. Install and forget it... Originally I had a Signal Dynamics indicator. But never was happy with the design, having a separate module from the indicator LED. It was not my intention to pick on you for a clean bike. A good friend of mine likes all his stuff as clean or cleaner than when new..., so I know and somewhat understand your need for clean.  | ||
| Motorbike |
Ourdee, I went ahead and ordered the Gammatronix unit that you suggested. As I understand it, I will just connect one wire to battery (not switched) and one to ground so it will be powered continuously. Question: Will this unit switch modes if I should disconnect the battery for any reason? I am asking because I plan to mount it in a hole in the dash and will not have easy access to the switch on the monitor. Thank you! Also, I am not offended by anyone that says my bike is too clean. If any of you never wash your bikes, that is fine too. I am never critical of others rides, dirty or clean. Wouldn't life be boring if we were all the same?  | ||
| Sagehawk |
I've never had good luck after a ulywash. Something always happens. So, being a deep thinking type guy, the obvious hit me. NEVER WASH A ULY UNLESS YOUR FIXING TO TEAR INTO IT! There , I said it. A seemingly good mantra even if a bit misdirected. Motorbike: your statement about us being all alike would be boring , made me think of the movie, Multiplicity. That certainly would lighten our day, wouldn't it? | ||
| Ourdee |
I have mine wired to a power wire that is only on when the key is on. Gammatronix sais it will maintain the program you select even if the power is off for 100 years. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I would avoid wiring it directly to the battery. .010A doesn't sound like a lot of drain but it can take a battery down if left alone for a week. I wired my kuryakin thing to the back of my accessory "lighter plug" in the dash. | ||
| Uly_man |
I Use the Gammatronix "G" type. It has the basic functions which are all you need. It is easy to see in daylight but not over bright at night and easy to place/ fit.  http://www.ebay.com/itm/LED-Motorcycle-Battery-Alternator-Charge-monitor-level-indicator-warning-bike-G-/200826330214?hash=item2ec22e9c66:m:mkmYChJxuSeWHHrNu2SCeIw In use it is 0.01A and storage is 0.0005A which is nothing and your bike will drain the battery long before this does. | ||
| Motorbike |
I received the Gammatronix monitor as shown in Ourdee's post above. Looks like a nice unit but I do have an issue with it as I read the directions. It states "Do not allow the unit to become damaged, wet, dismantled or make modification to the enclosure or internal parts". The "wet" part concerns me. My bike has been caught in rainstorms and is occasionally washed. This monitor is going to get wet. I thought it was designed for motorcycles? There is another area in the instructions that states "If the unit is to be used outside and may get wet, seal the bezel into the mounting hole, and the LED into the bezel itself, with a small amount of clear silicon or similar". Now I don't know what to do. I should probably mount it into the instrument panel, as some have done, to keep it dry. For those that have had the instrument panel apart, how difficult is that to do and do you break or damage any seals when disassembling? I would not want to lose the weather tight properties of the panel. Thank you all for your help and advice! Oh, by the way, I test rode the bike about 260 miles last Saturday and the new Shindengen MOSFET regulator is working great! The bike cranked over real well every time I stopped and restarted, which I did intentionally several times. (Message edited by motorbike on June 22, 2016) | ||
| Ourdee |
I have not sealed mine. It is just behind the fly screen. I've washed the bike and rode in rain storms. If it goes wonky, I"ll coat the board with silicone on the next one. |
