| Author | Message | ||
     Orygun |
Riding to work this morning, my low mileage, unmodified 06 Uly started to misbehave. I'm hoping to get some info on where to start troubleshooting. I was on the freeway running at about 4k with the bike fully warmed up and the engine started stuttering - cutting out for only a second or so 4 or 5 times. No CEL and the dummy light I installed for the charging system showed green. I reached my destination wondering if it was my imagination. An hour later, back on the bike - accelerating onto the freeway, the bike lost power and backfired loudly. I pulled to the shoulder and successfully restarted the bike (again - no CEL and GREEN for the charging system). As I accelerated again I experienced the same type of stuttering and a couple milder backfires. Made it off the freeway and nursed the bike to a safe place to pull over. Starts, idles, and works OK at lower speeds/RPMs. I'm hoping someone can give me a good starting point or two for determining the cause...Thanks! | ||
| Teeps |
Battery: make sure it's fully charged and in good condition. How old is the battery? Battery cables & terminations (on the battery and frame for ground. make sure they are secure.) Low miles; what does that mean? Was the bank angle sensor recall performed? B.A.S. should be relocated from near the ECM to the tail section behind the seat latch. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142838/261932.jpg (Message edited by teeps on March 28, 2016) | ||
| Orygun |
Thanks Teeps. Low mileage = 13,000. New battery (3 months old), cables tight. Ground tight to frame and I previously removed the paint from where the ground wire hits the frame. Not sure about the BAS recall. Don't think its been relocated. Sounds like it might be a starting point?!? | ||
| Pedalpimp |
Fuel? How long has it been in the tank? How long since the bike was last ridden? Possibly some water? | ||
| Orygun |
Most of the way through my tank of fuel (100 miles on odo). Fuel's been in the bike about a week. Its been a week since I last rode the bike...It would be nice if that was the problem - but I don't think so... | ||
| Nillaice |
start with the simple, easy and cheapest things. it can't hurt to hook it up to ECM spy swap out the ECM with a spare/borrowed check fuel pump wires -chaffed? check 77 connector | ||
| Etennuly |
Sounds like it is hitting 'Run Skip' to protect from overheating. You were running 80 mph for a while, did it do it on an up hill? Then it runs fine at below 55 mph? This does not throw a code, it is a normal function for a minor over heat situation going into 'safe' mode. Many of us have struggled with this for years to still not have a definitive answer, many bandages to help, but not an answer. You should be able to find many threads in the "Knowledge Vault" about this issue. The backfire will happen if your bike shut down long enough to completely cool off. When you fire it up and take off this will happen if it does not warm up enough. Mine will do it every time at about the exact same distance out if I do not go through a complete warm up. It does not seem to hurt anything, just kind of happens with the ECM switching from open loop to closed loop. Changing ECM's two times did not help either problem. TPS resets, tuning, wiring repairs and replacements, intake gaskets, fan on all of the time helps a lot. If you find a cure I'd like to hear about it!!  | ||
| Fotoguzzi |
the plug to the ECM is being squeezed by your seat? is this a symptom of the broken solder in the input to the ECM? have you relocated the box? I"m no expert.. | ||
| Ratbuell |
zero the tps | ||
| Orygun |
I checked that the BAS recall was done...it was. Took a short ride around the neighborhood last night. It was cutting out at lower speeds and when the bike wasn't fully warmed up - so maybe not the 'run skip'??? Replaced the 77 connector a while ago. Shouldn't be the ECM as I installed some protection against the seat rubbing. I'll prob start with a reset of the TPS per Ratbuell's suggestion and see if that gets me anywhere | ||
| Arry |
I protected the ECM, to prevent contact with the seat, and still had it go bad. Mine had a variety of symptoms, that I struggled with, for a couple of years. Finally, as things got worse, ended up with a code that indicated a bad ECM. | ||
| Ourdee |
I always listen to Ratbuell in these threads. | ||
| Etennuly |
Do TPS reset with fully warmed engine. Logical next step. Check edge of throttle plate for carbon build up. | ||
| Firemanjim |
Check plug wires for any rub throughs adn tight fitment. | ||
| Hughlysses |
+1 to what Jim said. The front plug wire is prone to rubbing through where it contacts the throttle cables. The connectors on both ends sometimes don't get seated properly and/or get corroded which can cause a spark miss. If in doubt, replace the wires. It's always best to start with fundamental things before delving into the electronics. | ||
| Cyclonedon |
I had my front plug wire short out but the bike still ran on one cylinder home. Then I discovered what the problem was and changed my plug wires | ||
| Orygun |
Well, TPS reset had no effect. Couldn't find anything else wrong - Finally took the bike to the local HD dealer and they ran their diagnostics without finding anything - Then they plugged in a test ECM - and the problem stopped. Looks like an ECM fail. Have a new ECM on order. I will dissect the old one to see if its in the connections. | ||
| Arcticktm |
Still worth checking plug wires at some point. My '06 nearly were rubbed through inner insulation (front wire) when I replaced the set a few years ago. Of course, I replaced my ECM a year before that... | ||
| Billy_bee |
That's how mine behaved prior to replacing and moving the ECM.... bb | ||
| Firemanjim |
I may have an ecm | ||
| Screamer |
Origin, You may want to confirm a travel limiter (ECM bumper) has been installed to prevent damage to your replacement ECM. Part # is N0903.1AK | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
And don't throw out your old ECM. It can most likely be fixed. If it gets squashed under the seat (and our fat asses), it leans on the connectors. Those connectors are not mechanically supported and the solder cracks. If you cut away the rubber crap, you can reflow the solder with good old 60/40 solder that has LEAD. Here is the treasure that lives inside:  You can see the black connector does all the heavy lifting while the grey connector does sensors. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Here is a thread with a newer vintage of ECU: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/524270.html The one I posted above is for older DDFI1 (tubers) Still a cool picture though  |
