| Author |
Message |
    
Etennuly
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 12, 2015 - 12:41 pm: | 
|
IIRC Etennuly has removed his more than once with a steel rod with a good "sharp"/flat end on it. You can "catch" the edge of the bearing and drive it out from the opposite side without damaging the wheel or the spacer if you're careful. That's an item you could pack in your tool kit.
I use a 1/2" square rod that is about 16" long. Heat the rim to "too hot to touch". Angle the rod through the hub so that the corner of the square catches the opposite side inner bearing race at the spacer. Once started you can regrip the race's edge, working around the bearing it gets easier to grip as the bearing moves away from the spacer. Once the first bearing and spacer are out the opposite side are easy to heat and tap out.
I remove the seals from new bearings and pack them with hi temp wheel bearing grease while spinning them with a rubber sanding drum on my drill. Then pop the seals back in and install using the heat method. |
Natexlh1000
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 12, 2015 - 04:14 pm: |
|
I thought doing that would kill the inside of the soft aluminum and make the hole too big. |
Etennuly
| | Posted on Wednesday, May 13, 2015 - 10:54 am: |
|
I thought doing that would kill the inside of the soft aluminum and make the hole too big.
??What?? |
Hughlysses
| | Posted on Wednesday, May 13, 2015 - 11:03 am: |
|
^ You need to be careful not to booger up the spacer; it should shift to the side enough so that you can catch the bearing with the metal bar without damaging the spacer.
The other thing is to not get the bearing "cocked" in the wheel as you drive it out. If that went too far you would definitely damage the wheel. You need to work your way around the inside of the bearing and drive it out as straight as possible. |
Uly_man
| | Posted on Wednesday, May 13, 2015 - 01:25 pm: |
|
"I thought doing that would kill the inside of the soft aluminum and make the hole too big".
Yes it can/ will, with lots of changes and I KNOW because it trashed my 750 Super 10s rear wheel, but one/ two changes using a puller (once it can get a grip on the bearing) will be fine. Those of you who have changed your own bearings know full well how hard they can be without the correct, and VERY costly at least in the UK, blind bearing puller.
Oh and they were still fitting the orange seal bearings on the 10 bike fonts because my 10 bike had them? The bearing quality is NOT THE ISSUE but how they are fitted even from the factory since my 06 bike needed rears and 10 bikes fronts needed changing on the 5k service. Which would, to me anyway, indicate a fitting problem even from the factory so what does that tell you? |
Etennuly
| | Posted on Wednesday, May 13, 2015 - 03:37 pm: |
|
Oh I see what you missed there. I heat the wheel to where the bearing is so easy to tap out. If driven gently and evenly around and around on the bearing it will hurt nothing.
Heating the wheel is the secret to keeping it's bearing machine sized hole perfect.The wheel expands and lets go of the bearing. The cold press(pulling) method can gall or muck up the fit because of the dissimilar metals, without helping it along with the expansion caused by the application of heat. I have also cooled the bearing's outer race at the same time the heat is on, on stubborn friction fits.
I always store the new replacement bearings in a freezer for an hour or so before heating the wheel to fit it in. They slip in so nicely.....for a few seconds. |
Djohnk
| | Posted on Wednesday, May 13, 2015 - 04:47 pm: |
|
"Heating the wheel is the secret to keeping it's bearing machine sized hole perfect."
It also helps that the aluminum rim expands faster than the steel bearings when heat is applied, so the hotter you get it the more gap you get (just don't damage the finish on the rims -- I kind of worry about that, but it hasn't happened to me).
As has been said many times before on this forum:
1) When removing the bearings heat the rim (I apply some of this beforehand: KROIL).
2) When installing freeze the bearings and heat the rim. |
|
