| Author | Message | ||
     Phoun49 |
I need to replace the clutch hub as the fingers holding the snap ring gave way and left me stranded about a mile from home. I'm having trouble figuring out how to remove the main shaft nut and the hub in general. I have the shop manual and all it tells me to do is just remove it. My problem is that the clutch hub spins along with the nut. What's the best way to prevent the clutch hub from spinning when applying force?  (Message edited by phoun49 on April 15, 2015) | ||
| Nobuell |
I have an old vice grip designed to hold in the hub grooves. Perhaps you can get a strap wrench to work or weld a bar to one of the pressure plates. | ||
| Jesse_lackman |
The lock bar - the same one that is used to remove the engine sprocket nut/bolt. It's in the manual. | ||
| Phoun49 |
Sorry, I think there was a misunderstanding. Since the fingers gave way on the clutch hub, there is nothing holding my pressure plate and clutch plates in the basket. I have all of that stuff out. The clutch hub is spinning independently from the clutch basket. Were the vice grips something that you made or did you pick it up from somewhere Nobuell? Also, do I need to remove the clutch basket to replace the hub? (Message edited by phoun49 on April 16, 2015) (Message edited by phoun49 on April 16, 2015) | ||
| Jesse_lackman |
I'd think the lock bar will work if the pressure plates and clutch plates were in the basket. All they need to do is stay in place long enough to hold so you can get the nut off. Maybe I should look at my manual. | ||
| Teeps |
A 1/2" impact wrench might knock the nut loose. Although you may need to load the clutch parts back in the basket to get so drag on the hub.... That's what I'd do anyway. | ||
| Phoun49 |
A little off topic, but I've been reading about replacing the spring plate with two steel plates and a friction. Has anybody tried this? I've tried putting the friction plates and the pressure plate back in, but without the snap ring to hold everything together and under pressure, the clutch hub still spins. I haven't tried an impact wrench yet because I don't have one. I did figure out that a 4" trim sample from Menards will work as a lock bar though so I'm covered on that end. I think what I need is something that looks like a double teethed friction plate. I wish I hadn't thrown my old ones away or else I could have put one together  (Message edited by phoun49 on April 16, 2015) | ||
| Griffmeister |
Trying to picture what you're working with here. Since the technique is the same, could you use something of proper size to work as a lock plate between the hub and the basket? Just a thought. | ||
| Teeps |
some examples: https://www.google.com/search?client=opera&q=clutc h+hub+holder&sourceid=opera&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&chan nel=suggest&gws_rd=ssl | ||
| Phoun49 |
Oooh that's exactly what I need. Found some on Revzilla and eBay. Thanks Teeps! (Message edited by phoun49 on April 17, 2015) | ||
| Nillaice |
you can screw together an old/used steel and friction plate to lock the inner hub to the outer. ive done this on my 1125. works like a champ and ive put the energy one 'extra plate' clutch kit in my uly. with out the judder plate and spring, I notice more initial bite instead of a slow, gradual power transfer. better for drag racing, I guess, but it just makes the friction zone a bit smaller. | ||
| Nillaice |
or; overlay a friction and a steel plate, trace the outline and then cut it out of one piece of metal. handy if you have a CNC or like to bandsaw/plasma ... if you don't have a junker clutch or get one from a service garage (i can check this weekend in my garage to see if i have any plates for you), i guess you might as well buy the tool. | ||
| Phoun49 |
I just ordered the tool from Revzilla for $20. I tossed my junk plates when I was cleaning out the garage. Never thought I'd need them again. I really regret it now. I wish I had access to a CNC or even a bandsaw. All I have in my little garage are some basic tools. | ||
| Arcticktm |
to address your off topic question - I replaced the spring plate ("anti-judder" in HD speak IIRC) as you mention a few years back when my clutch fried. After a lot of trouble with initial let out of clutch (grabby, lurching, "judder"), I put it back to stock configuration (but with all new plates of course) and left it there. No trouble since in 21k additional miles. I'd leave it be unless you think it somehow is causing you a problem. My opinion is that the "extra plate" kits are just marketing way of explaining why they didn't want to make the special thin plate and spring plate to match the OEM setup. I have a detailed post of my clutch rebuild experience with Energy One (did not go well) in the Knowledge Vault if it would be of interest to you. | ||
| Zac4mac |
All I've ever heard that plate called is a "grenade plate". The accounts are that the rivets give and the whole thing comes apart. I think it's a good idea to get rid of it. | ||
| Arcticktm |
rivets? We are definitely talking about 2 different things. I was simply talking about the belleville washer metal plate that takes the place of the inner most clutch metal plate, and is used with a special thin (radially thin) friction plate. No real durability concerns there. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I thought that the grenade plates were only found in tubers. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Uly's do not have "grenade plates" There are 7 fiber and 7 metal plates. There is one additional narrower friction plate on one end of the stack toward the clutch hub. | ||
| Phoun49 |
Just got the Revzilla tool in. It's too big. If anyone has any a pair of junk plates or is willing to lend me a tool that works, send me a PM. | ||
| Zac4mac |
Good to know Bluz I have yet to go inside my Uly's motor. So all the fiber/steel plates are the same, with a "half-plate" to the outside? Very familiar with all the heads but not so much the rest... Dan keeps me chained to my Foredom grinder... Z | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Yup, Here's a blow out from the parts manual. 7 Steel plates - 30 7 Fiber plates - 29 Thin fiber plate - 24 Otherwise very similar to an XL clutch.  | ||
| Phoun49 |
Well with no luck finding some junk plates, I'm getting a little desperate. I found this Barnett lock plate that works with a few listed Buells and Sportster models. Would it by chance fit a 2007 Uly? https://www.denniskirk.com/barnett/scorpion-clutch -lock-plates.p282592.prd/282592.sku | ||
| Rayycc1 |
whats the problem with Energy one? I run one with no issues other than it being a little tricky to adjust | ||
| Arcticktm |
My Energy One issue (as detailed in the Knowledge Vault post) was that it did not provide the proper plate stack height for the Buells back when I bought it (even though it said for Buell). Perhaps Energy One updated their parts, as this was back in 2007. Energy One also stopped helping me part way through me discovering the problems with their "kit", so I had to figure most of it out myself. I still ended up using their regular friction plates, but had to buy HD steel plates and also went back to the HD/Buell narrow innermost plate to get good performance back (no judder when starting out). Still running that setup many years later with no trouble since. | ||
| Nillaice |
arctic, I'm glad you got it figured out. my energy one clutch has been trouble-free as soon as I got the new friction zone figured out... although, I still manage to accidentally float the front wheel occasionally | ||
| Phoun49 |
Got the clutch hub off finally. Does anyone know how to get the inner race (37892-02) off and on? |
