| Author | Message | ||
     Deeds |
Trying my damnedest to figure out where this noise is coming from... it sounds like metal tapping lightly against something. Maybe from under the airbox cover? It started a few months ago. It comes on between 2,500-3,000 rpm, and ONLY when the bike is in motion, no matter if it's in gear or not. Rolling up to a stop light, whether in gear or not, (especially when decelerating) I will hear the noise when the needle passes through that rpm range. Once I am stopped, I can't replicate it! Any ideas? 2007 Uly, 35,000 miles. | ||
| Pagprivat |
I had that happening. After much head scratching I finally found the culprit, worn out front engine isolator. Wasn't worn out down to the bone, still plenty air gap, that's also why it was hard to find. But it was enough to displace the engine in certain situations so that the aluminum pulley cover would touch the foot peg frame and make an annoying noise and feel. | ||
| Motorfish |
Some have found that the horn, under the fairing, rubs against the bracket. Just throwing it out there. | ||
| Mark_weiss |
Another vote to check the horn. I had one blade of the double layered steel mount break. Just enough movement to allow the horn to tap the inside of the flyscreen. Under the right set of circumstances. The crescent moon line on the inside of the plastic was a dead giveaway. That, and the fact that when I remounted the horn the noise stopped. | ||
| Teeps |
Look at front muffler mount too. | ||
| Deeds |
How do I know when a front isolator needs to be replaced? When I bought the bike a year ago, the seller included a new front and rear isolator in the box. How involved is it to replace the front? Just looks like 3 bolts and it's out. (Message edited by Deeds on February 11, 2015) | ||
| Mark_weiss |
There should be a space between the bottom of the engine bracket and the flange at the bottom of the frame bolt. Enough to allow the engine to shake without the bracket striking the bolt. You can also peer up into the bracket and see of any of the rubber webs of the isolator have torn. I found that the biggest trick to replacing the front motor mount was keeping the engine in the right position so that the bolt into the frame did not bind. Use a tight fitting bit when removing the old bolt, it is very tightly fitted. | ||
| Deeds |
I checked it out and the rubber does look a little split around the center bolt. Does anyone have the size of the 3 bolts so that I can get a fitting bit? Also, would slightly jacking the engine up be enough to loosen the bolts? | ||
| Pagprivat |
Very easy to change the front isolator, put a jack under the engine to keep the weight and adjust position when you install the new one back. Don't remember the size of the bolts, just get an ordinary good quality allen key set and you're good. Loctite 242 on the 2 bolts to the engine, anti seize on the center bolt to the frame. You do the whole operation in 20-30 min. The air gap of a new isolator is slightly less than 1/2" I think. Mine still had plenty gap left when I had the issue, but the rubber had gone too soft, leading the engine to twist too much under load. | ||
| Arry |
3/8" allen |
