| Author | Message | ||
     Buellerxt |
Having three bikes that I rotate I don't put many miles on my Uly but I sure love the bike. I have 30,000+ on my 2008 XT and have never had a fork oil leak issue or suspension issue but with the time and mileage I'd feel a little better if I had new fork oil. I don't ride off road or on any dirt and I clean the sliders after every ride. Yeah, I like to keep the bike clean.  The problem is the dealer says it takes 3+ hours! Wow, expensive! Anyone out there with 50,000+ miles and original fork oil? I have a Harley/Suzuki friend who has done it on both with no issues. Anyone else? I'm starting to think about waiting for a suspension issue or leak before having it done. Thanks. | ||
| Tempest766 |
I read through the procedure and it's essential a fork rebuild, which is why it sucks. I bought replacement oil but like you, I can't justify the time and expense. It should have been designed to change the oil more easily, IMHO. I have 24k miles on my bike and I'm also of the opinion that it probably won't be done until it becomes an obvious problem. Whether that is the right move or not, only time will tell. | ||
| Steveford |
With 50,000 miles you should do it at your next front tire change. It's just time consuming, not really difficult to do. | ||
| Etennuly |
I have an '06X. It made it to 50,000 where a fork seal let go and oiled my right boot. It never did act like a tired shock absorber, like I thought it might, to where it would have been noticeable having fresh oil in the forks. IMHO unless you need a race tune of the forks, for street use, I would catch them at 50,000, unless a problem shows up first. | ||
| 1313 |
IMHO unless you need a race tune of the forks, for street use, I would catch them at 50,000, unless a problem shows up first. I concur. I'm approaching 60,000 on my '08 XB12XT. Due to a leaking fork seal, and some cooperation from the dealership I bought it from, they essentially did the front fork oil change at roughly 10,000 miles - and I haven't done it since. I notice no detrimental effects and everything appears normal. However I do definitely notice a difference when I swap out between bikes - but that's just the nature of the different suspension on the different bikes, 1313 | ||
| Buellerxt |
Thank you, guys. I really appreciate the input . Like you, Etennuly and 1313, I haven't felt any drop off in handling. I'll keep on doing what I do and hopefully I won't have a leak. . If I do, I'll get new fork oil! I've read a number of accounts of riders on different machines going 80,000-100,000 miles before a change! Thanks again. (Message edited by BuellerXT on November 30, 2014) | ||
| Teeps |
I've changed the fork oil in my '06 Ulysses at 10k and 30k miles. If they are not leaking all that's needed is an oil dump & refill, which is what I have done. Last time the fork oil was replaced, Honda HP 5wt fork oil went back in. Fork action seems much smoother with this fluid over OEM H/D fluid. | ||
| Panhead_dan |
I had a nick in one of the tubes that kept taking out seals until I realized why. Because of this I rebuilt my forks 3 times within a couple of years. I noticed significant wear on the slider bushings every time and because of this I would never wait 50,000 miles to do this work. Change the fluid every couple of years and rebuild every 10,000 seems more like it. What does the manual give for the interval between rebuilds? It is Not a hard job but it will take all of those 3 hours, especially the first time. The 3 special tools needed are not needed if you use your trees for a clamp, a half of a short piece of pvc pipe for a seal driver and some elbow grease for a spring compressor. | ||
| Dr_greg |
Dunno what you're referring to with "rebuild"...but I'm one of the morons that used to change the fork oil every 10,000 miles on (both) my '06 Ulys. Mrs. Greg was my helper (she got good at it, although she dreaded it), and we got it down to an art. Homemade tools, etc. Probably overkill, but the forks sure worked well on that bike. --Doc | ||
| Uly_man |
As Teeps said just change the oil. As with the engine good clean oil will make it work better. A full rebuild is a PAIN and not needed. Happy ride. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
I probably wouldn't even do the oil change until a seal blew. Eventually the seal will leak and you'll have to do the deed but fear not, it is more of a pain then anything. But no more pain than most other repairs that amount to anything. | ||
| Afsoc_commando |
I have 31K on my XT and plan on doing the fork job when it starts weeping.... The forks are working fine and I believe in the mantra... "If it ain't broke.... Don't fix it!" | ||
| Buellerxt |
I'm with you, Electraglider and Afsoc, I'm riding on. Thanks. Doc, Your wife is a GOOD one! Between stressing on helping with your numerous fork oil changes and helping you load the Uly, multiple times, after driving and pulling a trailer to rescue you, sees an MVP! Lucky man! | ||
| Xbimmer |
Changing the oil is easy enough but to do that right you should remove the fork tube assemblies anyway so while you're there why not take them apart? The slide and guide bushings DO wear out their teflon coating and sometimes in pieces which can stick in a seal. The parts are cheap enough and as long as you don't mess with the damper rod settings it's not that big a deal, when you're done you'll have nice new seals in there too and won't have to get oil all over your brake caliper when the right side blows which sorta ruins the day's ride. You also have the opportunity to install some boots of some sort which keeps the oil cleaner in the long run. No I don't redo them every 10K either but at least I would change the oil 10-20K no later. | ||
| Turf_moor |
My fork oil was changed at 13,800 miles, and the bike's front end felt better over bumps after. I suspect deterioration is so gradual people don't notice it. | ||
| Uly_man |
"I suspect deterioration is so gradual people don't notice it". It is an absolute FACT? And is the same for the rear shock as well. People adjust there ride to compensate but it is only after it gets bad that they take notice. | ||
| Simond |
I've yet to see any Buell's steering head bearings make it much past 10k so changing the fork oil at the same time would seem to make sense. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Simond, I have close to 50,000 on my 06' ULY original steering head bearings. No click so far. Probably could use a look see but never any symptoms so I haven't ever looked at them. Garaged bike most likely helps but it has been in plenty of rain and on long trips with torrential rains at times. | ||
| Turf_moor |
My steering head bearings were replaced at 13,800 miles, but they weren't so bad. Seeing the fork oil was being changed, it just made sense to change them. Just out of interest, the rear wheel bearings did 13,300. The front ones were changed as a precaution at 13,800, along with the swingarm bearings, although, they were not too bad.I think all the speed humps in London were to blame for the wear. It's like riding off road. | ||
| Simond |
I'll be checking mine this winter along with wheel and swing arm bearings..... and changing the fork oil! The bike has 9.6k miles on it and doesn't ride any where near as well as it used to. My S2 had all bearings replaced and forks rebuilt in the last 3k miles - the bike was transformed and is a pleasure in comparison to the Uly. The Uly is garaged, rarely ridden in the rain and looks like new The front wheel bearings were replaced at 4.5k by a dealer. They also fitted the 2010 rear wheel as a precaution. I'm curious to see what I find. | ||
| Arry |
I've got a leaky seal (brake side) and ordered some parts today. I know this has been discussed before, but I'm not sure what brand or weight of oil I'll use. I might just use the HD type E. I've got about 20k mi., but it started leaking a couple thousand ago. | ||
| Tootal |
Arry, how do you normally ride your bike? Some of the guys prefer the type E and they add a little more than the book says and like it because it's more like a race bike. Myself, I like it set up more like a dirt bike so it can take the frost heaves and potholes around here without knocking my fillings out. What I figured out was that using Amsoil 5wt., at the recommended level, allowed me a lot more adjustment to the softer side. It actually feels like the suspension is doing something now. If I hit some smooth twisties I can adjust it firmer real easy. Now I'm roughly 230 in the saddle and this works for me. I've heard that some of the bigger boys like it much firmer which in my opinion they really need stronger springs but that's a big pain. I'm just throwing out some alternatives if you're interested. I hope you get it sorted the way you like it! | ||
| Ourdee |
I don't have the book anymore. I thought the interval was 20,000 | ||
| Arry |
Tootal, I ride mostly secondary roads and a fair amount of gravel road. I have been pretty happy with the stock feel, once adjusted, so I'll probably stick with the E type oil. Do you run the 5wt. at a higher level? | ||
| Tootal |
No. I have an 06 with 07 springs so I run the 07 level. Before the change I could loosen the adjustments all the way and it still rode rough. In fact before the 07 springs it was like riding a jack hammer. The springs helped a lot but still it was nothing like the Cagiva Gran Canyon I had before it. That bike had the best suspension I've ever ridden! Now with the 5wt. it feels real close to that Cagiva. The main thing is, when I make an adjustment I can actually feel the difference. | ||
| Rdkingryder |
I just did the fork oil change on my bike. With lot's of help from here and XB Forum, they weren't too bad to do. I did not see any "graying" of the fluid which may indicate slider wear(?). Anyway, I used 10wt Belray and maybe for my weight is a little too heavy. Everything I saw pointed to using 10wt, maybe should have been 5wt. Anyhow, it's done and it does seem to react just a bit slower, but it's cold out and the fluid would feel thicker anyway. Here's my little write up, scroll towards the bottom or you'll get a bunch of useless information from me babbling on. http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=354049 &page=19 | ||
| Buellerxt |
My steering head bearings are good. Solid to me and I had them checked by a good Buell tech. I've decided to wait on the fork oil until maybe 40-50,000 miles or a leak. It's a 100% road bike and I keep it clean. I did break down and change the spark plugs though at a little less than 30,000 miles. So far the bike has been great, knock on wood. Other than an exhaust valve at less than 500 miles, and a freak microscopically split fuse that left me stranded for a while 18 months ago, I've had no problems. I really like the bike. Thanks for all replies/input. |
