Author |
Message |
Tankhead
| Posted on Friday, November 14, 2014 - 06:55 am: |
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original post deleted to address second post. thanks (Message edited by tankhead on November 14, 2014) |
Tankhead
| Posted on Friday, November 14, 2014 - 09:33 am: |
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OK>>>>Bad news when I pressed in the drive side bearings the spacer fell off course and got pressed to the side. I had to bang it back out and now there is gouge marks on the spacer that touch the inner race of the rotor side bearing.. How bad is this? Will it be OK? Will it damage the inner race over time or the hub of the wheel? Do I have to remove the rotor side bearing and then buy a new spacer and bearing? Feel very foolish. Please help thanks (Message edited by tankhead on November 14, 2014) |
Etennuly
| Posted on Friday, November 14, 2014 - 12:55 pm: |
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Can you get pictures? |
Arry
| Posted on Friday, November 14, 2014 - 03:07 pm: |
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"I had to bang it back out ..." Pounding on the new bearing, inner race, is the bad thing. Gouge marks on the spacer, if not severe, are probably not a problem, as the spacer and inner races don't spin. Ideally you start over with a new bearing and spacer, but you could line up the spacer (with a shaft of some sort), and press it together. You would have to monitor it closely and will lack confidence in the bearing that was pounded on. |
Timbobuell
| Posted on Friday, November 14, 2014 - 03:21 pm: |
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new spacer like 13 bucks, get a new bearing. As far as the race, I would not worry. My bearings seized so bad the shop used every imaginable torture method to remove the bad bearings. My race looks very bad. However the new bearings once successfully and properly installed will not be affected. |
Tankhead
| Posted on Friday, November 14, 2014 - 03:25 pm: |
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Well that was expensive. My fault. Ruined the spacer and possibly the bearings. Taking no chances. Ordered new spacer, three new bearings, 12 bolts for rotor and pulley. Happy to use American Sport Bike, but wow that was an expensive mistake. Live and learn. Now will have to buy a bearing puller set. And the list goes on and on.... |
Sugarmcguinnmsncom
| Posted on Friday, November 14, 2014 - 08:56 pm: |
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Not to add insult to injury (and its not helpful to you, but maybe others reading this post), but the "option" for Al to press the brings into that 2010 wheel prior to shipping it to me was a no-brainer, and the best $20 ever spent. |
Tankhead
| Posted on Friday, November 14, 2014 - 10:06 pm: |
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Yes I was aware of Al of American Sport Bike pressing the bearings. I actually talked to Al and tried to buy the wheel kit from him. He said I could buy from any dealer in my area because I they are in stock. This has been the most expensive crap for this bike that I bought for $7200.00 new after the fire sale. Over $2000.00 for storage, repair, and retrieve (diesel for 2000 miles) to and from Nova Scotia from the original catastrophe back in august of 2013. Now another $60.00 for bearings and $18.00 for the spacer for a job that maybe if the instructions listed a watch for the spacer going off center I would not have made the error. New bearings are going to be trashed whether they are bad or not. Don't won't to take chances. My fault. No blame. Just sucks to be me. Should be all good in a week. Thanks to those who have helped me off line...... You know who you are... (Message edited by tankhead on November 14, 2014) |
Rayycc1
| Posted on Sunday, November 16, 2014 - 10:11 am: |
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I feel your pain. I have been working on and building bikes of all makes and models since I was knee high to a spark plug. ( 40 years).....and I'm pretty good at it at this point I guess....but most of those 40 years i didn't have the internet to warn me not to do this or that ...nor did i have access to factory manuals like we do today ...so yeah...my education was self taught and VERY expensive....I have made quite a few expensive mistakes over the years....but on the plus side...those are the lessons we remember and learn from |
Tootal
| Posted on Sunday, November 16, 2014 - 12:12 pm: |
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However it's always cheaper to learn from some other poor bastards mistakes!! That's what is great about this board. Researching before attempting a repair and letting others know what might befall them. As a machinist we have an old saying. You didn't screw up if you can fix it! Especially before the boss finds out! |
Tankhead
| Posted on Sunday, November 16, 2014 - 01:18 pm: |
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And now another $40.00 for a blind hole bearing puller... and the hits, they keep on coming |
Sagehawk
| Posted on Sunday, November 16, 2014 - 09:35 pm: |
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Amen to that Tootal! hadn't been in current shop very long and went in on Saturday to make a coupla small shaft nuts for a split case pump. 5 hours and one was complete. Monday, started the second. split the threads in it. 2nd, 3rd, 4th attempts were same. went over lathe to see what was going on. did not find anything wrong at the time. 5th time I finished nut but for threads and give it to cnc to thread. coupla months later others were splitting threads and we finally stripped the bronze gear on the thread indicator for the half nut. Some things just don't present theirselves at the first light. I felt sheepish, other guys thought I wasn't much of a machinist but then the Bridgeport lathe had its share of abuse already. I have learned so much from this board for preemptive maintenance that my buell experience has been relatively smooth. I thank all here for that. |
Teeps
| Posted on Monday, November 17, 2014 - 12:33 pm: |
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Tootal Posted on Sunday, November 16, 2014 - As a machinist we have an old saying. You didn't screw up if you can fix it! Especially before the boss finds out! And, if fixing the screwup is not possible. Immediately confess to the boss and beg for forgiveness. The outcome of that act will illustrate your true value to the operation. Don't ask me how I know... |
Tankhead
| Posted on Wednesday, November 19, 2014 - 05:23 pm: |
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Well the blind hole puller did not work. I have had it with this whole story. Any suggestions on how to get these bearings out? Or does anyone want to buy the whole kit with the wheel, new bearings, spacer, pulley and rotor bolts. I think I am done. |
Rayycc1
| Posted on Wednesday, November 19, 2014 - 07:07 pm: |
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its to late now....but when installing new bearings i always notch the race with a dremel ...giving a nice place for a punch/screwdriver to sit when pounding them out....as far as the blind bearing puller goes... a cheappo from harbor freight is not going to work well....the $150 one that HD sells will do the trick |
Tankhead
| Posted on Wednesday, November 19, 2014 - 08:09 pm: |
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Neat thanks. Gonna ask my mechanic brother in law to pull the bearings. |
Arcticktm
| Posted on Thursday, November 20, 2014 - 01:18 pm: |
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I also had no luck with bind bearing puller. I ended up taking to a local independant wrench who had a press, but not the right size collet for the Buell wheel. I at least got value out of the blind puller kit by loaning him the proper size collet for him to use with his press. that was in fixing my old '06 wheel and before I went out and bought a 2010 wheel. No experience to help on the 2010, as I had Al do it before he shipped to me. Sorry it's going rough for you. I had a lot of trouble pressing in my tapered replacements for steering head. Thought I had trashed the frame at one point, but so far so good 2 years later. |
Terrycoxusa
| Posted on Saturday, November 22, 2014 - 02:21 pm: |
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Just a thought, but if nothing else works, you could weld a scrap of metal across the old bearing to have something to work with. I tapped my bearings out from the back with an angled long punch. Bought a split collet type puller to use if I need to do it again but haven't tried it. |
Tankhead
| Posted on Saturday, November 22, 2014 - 03:32 pm: |
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YESSSSSS! My brother in law and I got the three bearings out no problem and my wife and I installed the bearings with the spacer today no problem. Thanks again for the off line support. You know who you are. And try not to work yourself to death. You are a good egg. Only thing was that there were two pressed in aluminum burrs from the spacer pushing up against the hub on the hub's inner face surface. I filed them down to almost to perfect but that should not effect anything should it? (Message edited by tankhead on November 22, 2014) (Message edited by tankhead on November 22, 2014) |
Uly_man
| Posted on Saturday, November 22, 2014 - 03:35 pm: |
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No it will be fine. |
Motorbike
| Posted on Tuesday, November 25, 2014 - 08:13 pm: |
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Your spacer will be just fine. The big concern with the spacer is that you do not over torque the axle and crush the spacer. If you torqued the axle properly as directed, you will get many years out of your new wheel and bearing setup. The peace of mind is worth all the money and hassle you went through. Take care. |
Nobuell
| Posted on Tuesday, November 25, 2014 - 09:32 pm: |
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To be fair, the manual does require the use a an internal guide to keep the spacer and the bearings square as they are pressed in. Not using the internal guide ill risk the bearings or the spacer are pressed in incorrectly. How did you remove the three bearings without loading the inner race? I would be concerned about re-using bearings that have been removed |
Tankhead
| Posted on Wednesday, November 26, 2014 - 10:39 am: |
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Trashed the bearings and bought all new bearings from Al at American Sport Bike. $137.00 for three bearings, spacer and twelve bolts for the rotor and pulley. Good times |
Nobuell
| Posted on Friday, November 28, 2014 - 07:11 am: |
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You made the right decision replacing the bearings. The spacer is cheap insurance. My XT, 3 bearing wheel has a good 30,000 miles on it with no issues. Enjoy. |