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Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » Archive through December 15, 2014 » Fork oil « Previous Next »

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Crempel
Posted on Saturday, October 11, 2014 - 12:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I had a pretty badly puking fork seal. Fixed it with a seal doctor under the seal. $5 fixes are always good! I don't know how much oil I lost. Is there some way to refill without removing and disassembling the whole fork?
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Tootal
Posted on Saturday, October 11, 2014 - 12:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Here's a link to a thread I did years ago. It's about switching the triple trees but I swapped fork springs at the time too so there is relevant information. The height of the fork oil is different for the 07 springs so use the dimension in your book for the 06 if you have the original springs.

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/442538.html?1236474150

Oh, and that's a no, you have to disassemble them to measure the oil level.
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Crempel
Posted on Saturday, October 11, 2014 - 04:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks
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Hughlysses
Posted on Saturday, October 11, 2014 - 05:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you didn't lose enough oil to drench your brake pads and or wheel, I wouldn't worry about it until the next scheduled change (every 10k miles IIRC). A tiny amount leaked out makes a big mess.
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Crempel
Posted on Saturday, October 11, 2014 - 05:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Since I recently moved and no longer have a garage full of tools handy, I'm looking for the easy if not totally kosher method. Any harm in popping the cap off and adding a couple of ounces straight in the top?
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Crempel
Posted on Saturday, October 11, 2014 - 05:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It did lose quite a bit, and since it was the the right side the caliper and pads got doused. Cleaned that up and works fine. Even ran onto the tire. Splattered onto chin fairing.
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Hughlysses
Posted on Saturday, October 11, 2014 - 05:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Any harm in popping the cap off and adding a couple of ounces straight in the top?

I would guess it wouldn't hurt anything. The level is not THAT critical since people experiment with different levels to change the action of the front suspension.
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Mark_weiss
Posted on Saturday, October 11, 2014 - 07:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

With the front end of the bike supported, you can unscrew both fork caps and fully raise the front wheel. With the suspension fully compressed, measure the height of the oil in the side that did not leak and duplicate the level in the side that did.
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Tootal
Posted on Sunday, October 12, 2014 - 12:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That's a good idea Mark, my only suggestion is once you compress the fork let it sit for an hour or so because your springs will hold a lot of oil, especially if it's cold. Once it drips dry you will have a more accurate measurement.
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Mark_weiss
Posted on Sunday, October 12, 2014 - 01:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Drain back is pretty quick. While not having raced the Uly, I do have trackside experience with other bikes equipped with male-slider cartridge forks. The oil runs off the springs within seconds.

The only difference from full overhaul is that you need to know the oil height WITH the fork springs in place. Most factory specs are for oil height with the springs removed.
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Tootal
Posted on Sunday, October 12, 2014 - 02:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I believe it would track side, after it's warmed up! But what you said at first was just to see what it measures on the non leaking side and make the leaking side the same. For a quick fix I like your idea.
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Arcticktm
Posted on Monday, October 13, 2014 - 12:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sounds like a good plan, but don't forget to loosen the top pinch bolts after you raise the front wheel, but before you try to remove the fork cap.
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Tootal
Posted on Tuesday, October 14, 2014 - 12:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Very good advise!
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Crempel
Posted on Thursday, October 16, 2014 - 02:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks. I like the plan. I'm still tickled that cleaning out the seal with the $5 seal doctor actually worked. Lots of riding since and dry as a bone. I will top up this weekend.
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Electraglider_1997
Posted on Friday, October 17, 2014 - 11:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Crempel,
It's dry on the inside too if you get my drift.
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