| Author | Message | ||
     Vwone |
Hi All, I have a 2008 XB12XT with 35,000 miles and the charging system is not charging the battery. According to the charging flow chart out of the electrical diagnostic manual, it is saying the next thing to do is check for a damaged of slipping rotor. I have never heard of that failure mode around here and just want to get your guys opinion before I proceed. The current state of affairs: New battery and new voltage regulator. I unplugged the stator and the AC voltage at idle is 28 volts AC and at 2000 rpm I have 48 volts AC. I have checked the resistance between each stator pins and ground and I have no continuity in between them. I have checked the resistance in between the two stator pins and I get .1 ohms. I have removed the battery and sanded down the two ground points with no change. What am I missing? Anything else I should try before pulling the rotor? Thanks, Dean | ||
| Djohnk |
I have heard of the magnets coming off the rotor but the rotor is usually pretty robust. It looks like you did electrical tests by the book, but did you do the sniff test on the stator? I have had two stators go bad and you can tell right away by opening that little inspection plate above the shift lever and taking a whiff. Both times the stator was visibly fried with charcoaled spots on the windings. Also, I have had that primary cover off a couple times, and reused the existing gasket without ever having a leak. There are some threads here Badweatherbikers discussing how to replace the stator, follow those and that will allow you to pull the rotor. Probably the hardest things about the procedure: 1) finding a socket the right size 2) finding something to jamb between the gears (I used 3" brass hinge from Lowes) 3) adjusting the clutch (don't bottom out the little adjusting screw, just turn it until you feel resistance, than back it off) and 4) be careful with the little plastic treaded insert where the clutch cable goes into the primary (I just laid the primary cover aside and out of the way with the clutch cable still attached). | ||
| Mark_weiss |
Would not those voltage readings confirm proper operation of the alternator (stator and rotor) itself? | ||
| Griffmeister |
I agree, sounds like a good output to me. The rotor is just a steel bowl with permanent magnets on the inside. It's also bolted to the primary drive gear with 8 bolts. Rather than slip I think there would be some serious (and noisy) destruction. Have you actually measured the voltage at the battery while running? You didn't say what results you got there. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Those readings sound like a good stator, but things can get weird under load. | ||
| Tempest766 |
The op also didn't elaborate on whether he diode tested his "new" voltage regulator. Also, it's not unheard of for a "new" battery to be bad off-the-shelf. Should have it properly load tested to see. I hope he's not doing something crazy like running a wet cell battery in there. | ||
| Vwone |
Thanks for the input so far!! I will start with the first question, "It looks like you did electrical tests by the book, but did you do the sniff test on the stator?" I haven’t opened up the inspection cover but I will do it today. "Would not those voltage readings confirm proper operation of the alternator (stator and rotor) itself?" I am thinking the same thing, so there must be something I am missing. "Have you actually measured the voltage at the battery while running?" Well after yesterday the battery is starting to get low but the measurements I took yesterday were 11.65 volts and falling. I turned the bike off around 11.5 volts. "The op also didn't elaborate on whether he diode tested his "new" voltage regulator" I have not done this test but I can say both the old and new regulator does the same thing. How do I diode test the VR? "Also, it's not unheard of for a "new" battery to be bad off-the-shelf. Should have it properly load tested to see. I hope he's not doing something crazy like running a wet cell battery in there." I haven’t had the new battery tested but changing out the old battery and the new battery doesn’t change anything. Also I am only using HD parts, the battery is a new HD battery and the voltage regulator is new as of Friday from American Sport Bike. | ||
| Griffmeister |
Um, might want to disconnect the 77 connector and see if you can read battery voltage there. Sounds like your VR and battery may not even be connected to each other. | ||
| Tempest766 |
Definitely reads like there is a bad connection between the stator output and the battery somewhere. The only component between the two is the VR and associated cabling. | ||
| Djohnk |
Griff I think there is a very good chance your right ... do a search for 77 connector here on badweatherbikers. It's easy to check it. | ||
| Ratbuell |
I don't think an 08 has a 77 connector.... | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
This link will show you exactly how to do the diode test. http://www.roadstercycle.com/Roadstercycle.com%20V ideos.htm | ||
| Griffmeister |
The 08 still has a 77 connector unless the owner hardwired it. It has been upgraded to a different style but still there. There is also a 30 amp fuse between the VR and the battery so don't rule that out either. | ||
| Vwone |
Hi Everyone, I apologize for the delay, I have been busy. I would like to thank everyone for their input. So after reading all the comments I decided to inspect the stator. I had no way to test the system under load and there was a funky smell coming from the primary oil. I am no expert but I am guessing a stator shouldn't look like this,  So now I get to buy another VR and a new stator. | ||
| Griffmeister |
That does not look good, I'm surprised you didn't read a short to ground the way that looks. Maybe this is the time to go all Shindengen, I wonder if their three phase stator for Buell will fit the newer bikes? | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Griffmeister, I've got the Shindengen Regulator on both m y son's 07 and my 06 with no complaints. That being said, had I known about this series reg/rectifier I'd go this route: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/750240.html?1412798213 (Message edited by electraglider_1997 on October 13, 2014) | ||
| Djohnk |
Be careful when you put on the new stator. There has been interference with the new stator and the rotor in some cases. Research it. | ||
| Teeps |
Djohnk Posted on Monday, October 13, 2014 - Be careful when you put on the new stator. There has been interference with the new stator and the rotor in some cases. Research it. Good advice. It's actually the rivet holding the black wire guide, that may contact the rotor. However, I though it was only a concern on the '06/'07 stators. Another point of failure is that metal plate on top of the wires. Inspect the plate, look for a rounded side vs a sharp side. Round side goes toward wires, the other way my end in tears. | ||
| Ourdee |
The same Shindengen Regulator that works on the 06 and 07 will work on the 08. The third wire on the 06 and 07 is not there on the 08. So you only hook up the 2 wires coming from the stator. It worked fine on my XT. | ||
| Griffmeister |
http://www.cycleelectricinc.com/ Electraglider, that is interesting. They also list a stator for Buell but doesn't really say what engine/years. Has possibilities, 38 amp rating @ 600 degrees f. Something I'd look at if mine falls victim in the future. | ||
| Uly_man |
"I am guessing a stator shouldn't look like this". No it should not. That smell is the enamel on the wires burning and the "black stuff" on them is whats left of the enamel coating. The enamel coating is the wires insulation and once it is burned off the wires will arc/ short to each other or earth. The case oil acts as a cooling medium for the coil winding. | ||
| Uly_man |
Why has it done this? Well it could just be fair "wear and tear" on the bike. People should ask themselves just what is the life expectancy of a modern bike and/ or its parts. That of course will depend on many things including the quality of the parts. To my mind the Uly is a well built bike but I think that any bike that has done 30k plus may well start to need some of its parts replacing. Some bikes need parts changing more often than others IE Battery, head bearings, etc. Others can have parts that are fine even after 100k miles. | ||
| Tootal |
One thing that can cause it is using gear oil in the primary/trans. Most gear oils have an ingredient that will attack the enamel on the wires. That's why they recommend the Harley primary fluid or engine oil. Even Amsoil recommends their engine oil in the primary instead of their gear oils. A previous owner may have tried gear oil at one time or it could just be bad luck. I know there are several folks who lost their stator and they never used gear oil, but, I just wanted to let you know that you shouldn't use gear oil because it can cause this. |
