| Author | Message | ||
     Dtaylor |
Just a quick post to say that using the heated hub and chilled bearings method works very well for the idler pulleys. I repacked the new bearings with Bel Ray waterproof grease before freezing them. The first bearing dropped right in, and the second bearing nearly did, and the lightest of taps via a socket on the outside race seated it perfectly. I got 25,000km on the original pulley, and another 25,000 out of a new old stock factory pulley. Both had play and the bearings felt dry at replacement. I'm hoping that packing these new bearings with waterproof grease will result in a little more life. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Doug- could you please provide some more info on the process? What bearing size/number? Did you take any photos? Thanks. | ||
| Reepicheep |
That approach works like magic for dirt bike crank bearings also. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Is it cost-effective vs getting a new wheel? | ||
| Dtaylor |
The bearings were 6203-2RS. Relatively inexpensive -- under $10 each, if I recall. A replacement pulley with bearings appears to run $80 to $100. Hugh, it was sort of a surprise job so no pics -- when I do the spare pulley's bearings, I'll try to take some. The good folks at Twin Motorcycles have a great pictorial on removing and pressing in new bearings, though: http://www.twinmotorcycles.nl/artikelen.asp?cid=20 &aid=292 (Message edited by dtaylor on August 26, 2014) | ||
| Hughlysses |
Doug- thanks for the P/N and link. I have to replace my rear tire soon; might be a good time to do this job too with ~48k miles on the original idler bearings. | ||
| Dtaylor |
Edited my previous post to fix the bearing number. They are 6203-2RS. Observations: It's tricky getting the slinky-like retaining clip ring out, but with a couple of smallish slotted screwdrivers and patience, it's not so bad. Putting it back is pretty easy. Once you get it started, use a flat screwdriver tip to work the circumference into the slot. If the spacers corroded in place (likely), carefully use the edge of a small punch to get one of the halves started, preferably the smaller one if you can get a bite. They're aluminum and can gouge easily. I used a bit of heat on the hub to help when tapping the old bearings out. I was fighting a bit of corrosion. Although the hot hub/cold bearing worked great for me, the Twin Motorcycles write up suggests that pressing the bearings in with a vice is a pretty easy go as well. A light coating of anti-seize on the hub (whether you use heat or no) and the spacers should help with installation and the next time it's due to come apart. (Message edited by dtaylor on August 26, 2014) |
