| Author | Message | ||
     Xbimmer |
Replaced my dried out, rusty, dented originals a couple years ago. Took the new stockers apart to put some real grease in, R/R went smoothly except for the wiring harness under there I stressed and had to fix. Apparently I had adjusted them too loose or Inland Empire Third World paving took its toll so now they're notchy. Talked to Teeps recently who swapped his out to All Balls tapered rollers and he's happy with them. I figured I'd try piecing together my own parts.   USA Timkens were only $4+ each from work and local HD dealer had good pricing on the seals at $2+ each. Pretty sure these are the same parts as the All Balls kit, guess I'll be finding out. | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
Those timken bearings are also suitable for the tube frame buells. | ||
| Teeps |
Xbimmer Posted on Tuesday, July 22, 2014 - USA Timkens were only $4+ each from work and local HD dealer had good pricing on the seals at $2+ each. Pretty sure these are the same parts as the All Balls kit, guess I'll be finding out. That's a great price Dean. I paid $20 for the alls balls delivered to door. Would have paid more for Timken or USA source. The alls balls bearings I have are marked "alls balls" on the race. They are probably sourced in china, as they have no useful numbering to be found in the packaging or the bearing race. I would have used Timken if I could have found a cross reference to their numbers. Be sure to post the Timken bearing numbers...} | ||
| Ramman4x4 |
I've used All-Balls brand fork seals on my DR650 and their countershaft seal on my YZ450 and have been very happy with them. However, I've seen plenty of All-Balls brand bearings (wheel, steering head, etc..) that didn't look as good as OEM parts. They typically undersize the rollers. I'm glad to see there is a USA made alternative. As requested by Teeps, please post the P/Ns for the bearings and OEM seals. I think I can make out the P/Ns in the pictures, but I want to be sure. | ||
| Xbimmer |
OK, Timken parts are Set-14 for the race/cone assembly comprised of L44610 outer race and L44643 inner cone/roller. The L-numbers are industry standards for these size bearing components I guess, we sell National (Fed Mogul) and Partsmaster brands also (A-14 for the sets) and the individual components are also marked with those L-numbers. I could have bought those brands for less, about $4 each for National and $2 each for the PM with my employee discount, but they're both Chinese. The Timkens are clearly marked "USA" on the parts, not just the box.  The seals are from a local HD dealer who had them in stock for a 2006 Sportster. I did a lot of searching and cross referencing for this stuff, they appear to be identical to the All Balls seals which are available separately #33-1014 for decent $ but $7 shipping was too much. Again I'm assuming I've my homework well and this stuff will fit! | ||
| Ramman4x4 |
Keep us posted. I'm planning to do the '08 triple clamp conversion on my '07 XB12X. I have all the parts (including the steering lock pin from Tootal), I'm just waiting for down time to do the swap. I may need new bearings/seals if I damage the factory parts during the swap. | ||
| Teeps |
Xmimmer, if the I.D. of the inner race is 1 inch and the O.D. of the outer race is less than 2" (I think I measured them at 1.950") they should fit & work just fine. Just make sure they go in straight. Also, I'm interested in how much torque you put on the preload nut. Ramman4x4, The stock head bearings (complete) stay in the frame. The steerer tube is not an interference fit, with the I.D. of the bearings. If you don't hear a single knock/pop sound when braking from the front end. The existing head bearing are still good. However, putting tapered bearing now, whilst the front end is off anyway is a good upgrade. | ||
| Ramman4x4 |
Ramman4x4, The stock head bearings (complete) stay in the frame. The steerer tube is not an interference fit, with the I.D. of the bearings. If you don't hear a single knock/pop sound when braking from the front end. The existing head bearing are still good. However, putting tapered bearing now, whilst the front end is off anyway is a good upgrade. Thanks for the information! I don't currently have a knock when braking, but my bike only has 1300 miles on it. Even crappy bearings should hold out this long right? The lower bearing on my YZ and DR is an interference fit with the steering shaft, so I assumed the Ulysses would be similar. I also assumed the OEM bearings were tapered...I guess there will never be a better time to upgrade to tapered bearings... |
