Author |
Message |
Ulywife
| Posted on Wednesday, March 11, 2009 - 01:47 pm: |
|
From Jlnance: - Rear Wheel Bearings. Affects 06-08 The Uly has been plagued with rear wheel bearing failures, some with disturbingly low mileage. It has never been clear why. Buell switched to a different bearing in 09, which is reported to have a better seal. Hopefully this fixes the problem. The near bearings are about $20/set. Press in a set the next time you change the rear wheel. (Message edited by Ulywife on March 11, 2009) |
Jphish
| Posted on Tuesday, March 10, 2009 - 04:27 pm: |
|
Mideon - As Hugh & Froggy note on a previous thread - the NEW bearings were installed beginning Aug of 08'. So if your 'new' Uly has a mfg date after that (or seals are black) you maybe exempted from BAS. (bearing anxiety syndrome) Still good to check until the EOOO5.02A8B's have proved themselves. j |
407guy
| Posted on Tuesday, March 10, 2009 - 01:13 pm: |
|
I dunno... maybe include "usual" symptoms? For example, I have no idea if my rear bearings are going. What should I be looking for or feel while riding the bike? *shrug* |
Froggy
| Posted on Tuesday, March 10, 2009 - 01:19 pm: |
|
407guy, I knew my rear bearings were shot when I got a nasty wobble doing wheelies. As for lights, just re-aiming them helps quite a bit, I assume there is some fed regulation regarding the aim thats causing the issue. |
Babired
| Posted on Tuesday, March 10, 2009 - 03:03 pm: |
|
Okay Froggy what are the signs of rear wheel bearing failure for those of us who try to keep both wheels on the ground K |
Gamdh
| Posted on Tuesday, March 10, 2009 - 03:08 pm: |
|
When you take your wheel off for tire changes... Put your thumbs in the wheel and spin the wheel...they should feel very smooth and easy. Right before I changed mine they were noticably notchy... You can also push the tire back and forth (while mounted) and see if you feel any movement. hth |
Hughlysses
| Posted on Tuesday, March 10, 2009 - 03:55 pm: |
|
Mideon- Yep. On checking the rear wheel bearings, I just posted this in another thread and thought I'd include it here too: I think I came up with a good "on the bike" check for the bearings: the last time I got ready to leave on a long ride, I jacked the bike up and spun the rear wheel with my finger inside the hollow rear axle. I couldn't feel any hint of roughness or vibration. Using a mechanic's stethoscope in the axle to listen would be an even better way to do it. I'm hoping a bearing problem would reveal itself this way before there's any visual indication like filings coming out of the seals. |
Mideon
| Posted on Tuesday, March 10, 2009 - 04:37 pm: |
|
-quote- the NEW bearings were installed beginning Aug of 08'. So if your 'new' Uly has a mfg date after that (or seals are black) you maybe exempted from BAS. (bearing anxiety syndrome) Still good to check until the EOOO5.02A8B's have proved themselves. j Hmmm will have to check. I have a 2008 25th Anniversary edition. I'll have to take a close look} |
Darthane
| Posted on Wednesday, March 11, 2009 - 09:59 am: |
|
I'm thinking I know the answer to this, but it never hurts to ask: The bearing upgrade on the Ulys was NOT the subject of a service bulliten like the old '03 XB9 bearings, right? If I want the new ones, I'll have to shell out for them (my Uly was assembled in June last year)? |
Hughlysses
| Posted on Wednesday, March 11, 2009 - 10:21 am: |
|
Darthane- Correct, there has been no service bulletin on the bearings. You can either shell out for them yourself, or wait until yours fail (if they do) and get them replaced under warranty. |
Babired
| Posted on Wednesday, March 11, 2009 - 11:16 am: |
|
Hughlysses do you think it would be a good Idea to order the new bearings and take them with you for long trips? K |
Hughlysses
| Posted on Wednesday, March 11, 2009 - 11:31 am: |
|
K- Several guys have done that. It's a pretty common bearing, but it would be good to have your own, especially if you're planning a trip to Alaska or something similar. You could change the bearings on the side of the road in the middle of nowhere if you HAD to and you brought a couple of essential tools. |
Hughlysses
| Posted on Wednesday, March 11, 2009 - 02:00 pm: |
|
A little more info on the rear wheel bearing issue, from an old post of mine. The XB rear wheel bearings are the same as a LOT of ATV's. If you have a failure on the road and you need a replacement now, the following ATV's use this bearing: 6006-2RS - 30 x 55 x 13 ATV Wheel Bearing This Part Fits: Honda ATC70 Suzuki LT-4WD QuadRunner LT-A400 Eiger 2x4 Auto LT-A400 Eiger Auto LT-A400F Eiger 4x4 Auto LT-A500F QuadMaster 4x4 LT-A500F QuadRunner 4x4 LT-A500F Vinson 4x4 LT-F250 QuadRunner LT-F250F QuadRunner 4x4 LT-F300F KingQuad 4x4 LT-F400 Eiger 2x4 Manual LT-F400 Eiger Manual LT-F400F Eiger 4x4 Manual LT-F4WDX KingQuad LT-F4WDX QuadRunner LT-F500F QuadRunner 4x4 Yamaha YFB250 Timberwolf 4x4 YFM100 Champ YFM350 Big Bear YFM350 Big Bear 2x4 YFM350 Big Bear 4x4 YFM350 Big Bear SE YFM350 Wolverine 4x4 YFM350ER YFM400 Big Bear YFM400 Big Bear 400 YFM400 Big Bear 4x4 YFM400 Kodiak YFM400 Kodiak 2x4 YFM400 Kodiak 4x4 YFM400 Kodiak Bear YFM400 Kodiak Bear 4x4 YFM450 Kodiak 4x4 YFM600 Grizzly YFM600 Grizzly 4x4 YFM660 Grizzly 4x4 YFM80 Badger This might allow you to find replacement bearings on the shelf at your nearby Honda/Suzuki/Yamaha dealer from any of several aftermarket manufacturers. |
Jlnance
| Posted on Wednesday, March 11, 2009 - 01:10 pm: |
|
do you think it would be a good Idea to order the new bearings and take them with you for long trips? They are small enough that it wouldn't hurt anything. My personal suggestion would be to replace the bearings before a long trip (assuming you're running the pre-09 bearings. Still waiting to see how the new ones hold up.) I replace my belt about once a year, also in preparation for a long trip. If I were going to carry something with me, it would be a stator and voltage regulator. These items fail with some frequency, and are often not stocked by dealers. |
Babired
| Posted on Monday, March 23, 2009 - 08:00 am: |
|
I got the Stator, regulator and the female connector plus the 2 new 2009 rear wheel bearings for the trip. Looks like I should order a belt for it as well. Cross your fingers for me for the Georgia trip and the Colorado trip this year. If the bike does not break down I will have 100% confidence in it again. K |
Rwven
| Posted on Thursday, May 14, 2009 - 10:36 am: |
|
Here's the SKF bearing that was linked to on another thread. http://www.applied.com/apps/commerce/catalog/catal og.do?e=10&s=6366801 Thought it might be helpful... |
Portero72
| Posted on Thursday, May 14, 2009 - 01:54 pm: |
|
Just a nugget- My 09 needed a new front disc at 8000 miles(high and low spots, of course). When I picked it up from the dealer, I noticed the work order had included replacing both FRONT wheel bearings. Prior to that, I hadn't noticed any problems with the front end. Still running the original orange-sealed rears. |
Rwven
| Posted on Tuesday, June 02, 2009 - 08:10 am: |
|
Front Wheel Bearing Link: http://www.applied.com/apps/commerce/catalog/catal og.do?e=10&s=6366744 |
Hughlysses
| Posted on Wednesday, July 01, 2009 - 01:32 pm: |
|
Cross-posting this post by Al Lighton from the main BB&D forum; this appears to be the "last word" on Uly wheel bearings: ---------------------- Posted on Tuesday, June 30, 2009 - 10:30 pm: I have spoken with folks at Buell that are quite knowledgeable on all of this, and can provide the following info. 1) The original FAG bearings (black) [comment- used on early XB's] were replaced by NTN bearings that had better seals and less hygroscopic grease. The new KBC bearings have yet again better (stiffer) seals and still better grease. They also have a better lines of communication into the bearing supplier themselves. Bottom line, the change to the bearing isn't just some cost cutting move..they ARE better. 2) The design of the wheel shoulders and internal spacer tube are such that in the worst case tolerance stackup of NEW wheels, bearings, and spacer tubes, the inner race on the bearing OPPOSITE the caliper/rotor will be seated against the inner spacer with just less than 0.5mm clearance between the rear wheel shoulder and the outer race, and just less than 0.25mm on the front wheel. All of this assumes that the bearings are installed correctly (rotor side bearing seated in wheel, spacer installed, opposite bearing installed until inner race seats against spacer tube). What this means is that IF the bearings are installed correctly, AND the spacer tube is not damaged, overtorquing the axle slightly shouldn't cause an inelastic deformation of the spacer tube. If Mongo gets a hold of it and gets brutal with the breaker bar during installation, all bets are off. 3) The bearing installation tool is designed to push on BOTH the inner and outer races in a plane. During installation of the opposite rotor side bearing, if the installation forces are applied to EITHER, but not both, of the races, you can potentially damage that bearing. If you use the old "socket on the outer race with a hammer" method, you'll probably ruin that, and possibly both bearings. You'll likely coin the bearing races, and might damage the spacer, if you seat the outer race against the wheel shoulder on that side. And regardless of the potential bearing damage, if you walk that bearing in which is easy to do with the hammer method, your interference fit of the outer race into the wheel may be compromised. Buell doesn't utilize thermal methods (i.e., hot wheel, cold bearing) for installation, they rely on process control and proper tooling. 4) When a bearing goes more than a little bad, it is possible and likely that the end of the spacer tube can be damaged. In this case, the margins afforded by the design as described in 2) above can be affected. Some bearing removal tools can also damage the ends of the spacer. So inspect that spacer tube with each bearing change. 5) Related to 4, future service manuals may provide for an inspection dimension on that spacer tube. But it isn't there now, so here are the nominals: Rear Spacer Tube: 202.8 +/- 0.05 mm, 7.984 +/- 0.002 inch Front Spacer Tube: 107.9 +/- 0.05mm, 4.248 +/- 0.002 inch Hopefully this is helpful info. Al (Message edited by hughlysses on July 01, 2009) |
Hughlysses
| Posted on Monday, July 27, 2009 - 05:26 pm: |
|
New update- 2010 Ulys come with a different rear wheel casting, larger bearings, and separate external seals. From an Anony post on another thread: "New bearings are 62mm OD, the old ones are 57mm, so you can't put the new bearings in the old wheel. You need the axle and spacer kit to run the '010 wheel in older bikes." The axle appears to be black anodized which should prevent the corrosion a lot of us have found when removing the axle. I'll post more info if/when it becomes available. [edit] The new design also appears to use 3 (vice 2) wheel bearings. This is likely similar to the setup on tube-framed Buells which used two bearings on the pulley side of the wheel. (Message edited by Hughlysses on July 29, 2009) |
Blake
| Posted on Wednesday, September 02, 2009 - 06:16 pm: |
|
More on the new Buell XB12X Ulysses 2010 rear wheel assy. |
Hughlysses
| Posted on Thursday, September 03, 2009 - 09:18 am: |
|
Somehow this never got posted in the thread. The Buell part numbers for the latest bearings (made by KBC, black seals) for 2006-2009 Ulys are: E0005.02A8B Rear wheel bearings E0004.02A8B Front wheel bearings There have been some reports of failures of these on the rear wheel, but installs may have been done before info posted by Al above was available. Still, looks like the ultimate fix is to go to the 2010 rear wheel. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Friday, May 21, 2010 - 08:20 am: |
|
Great thread... I didn't care about it before, but now I have a Uly so I do. So do we have a documented procedure for installing and removing bearings other then what is in the service manual, that still satisfies bullet 3 Hugh posted above? |
Travisl
| Posted on Friday, July 30, 2010 - 03:23 am: |
|
Anybody have any insight into how the SKF bearings compare to the stockers? These are available through work, but if they arent well suited I'll look into other options. Thanks! |
Froggy
| Posted on Sunday, August 01, 2010 - 09:36 pm: |
|
I lost a set of SFK's a few weeks ago. They didn't last any longer than the stockers. |
Rt_performance
| Posted on Tuesday, February 22, 2011 - 12:47 am: |
|
NAPA AUTO PARTS BRG 60062RSJ (rear) Driveshaft Bearing BRG 60052RSJ (front) Clutch Pilot Bearing Crossed these from the skf numbers posted. if someone is in a bind your local napa might have them. (Message edited by R/T Performance on February 22, 2011) |
Richd
| Posted on Saturday, July 23, 2011 - 11:01 am: |
|
Is there a easy way to remove rear wheel bearings?.....hate to give local Harley Dealer $80 for a 15 minute job.... |
Reedo
| Posted on Monday, September 05, 2011 - 02:50 pm: |
|
Add me to the list of owners with failed rear wheel bearings. Mine just went out on the ride home last night. I've just over 20k miles on my 06 Uly. Just finished ordering a new set off of Buell Parts. |
Nxdirtbag
| Posted on Thursday, October 13, 2011 - 04:43 pm: |
|
About a month ago, my 06 lost the bearings at 11K about 200 miles from home. (I know, not a lot of miles, but I bought this used and am getting the miles up now.) I got the bike back home and resurrected the tag on the Honda XR400 to fill my 2 wheel addiction until this is fixed. The drive side bearing was destroyed as was the spacer tube. I finally finished a previous project and had time last night to get into the repair. I had to beat the axle out last night as the spacer had been distorted during the final ride as the bearing approached complete failure. I was able to tap out the left bearing, but had to weld a bolt across the remaining outer race on the drive side to tap out the drive side bearing remains. I am checking on bearings at NAPA tomorrow and expect to be riding again as soon as the new spacer comes in. Wish me luck. |
Nxdirtbag
| Posted on Thursday, October 13, 2011 - 05:13 pm: |
|
The local bearing shop has SKF 6006-2RS1 bearings made in Argentina. Any suggestions? |
|