| Author | Message | ||
     Kennywiz |
Hello, I'm still toying with suspension setups while I search for SOME steering damper that will work with an 08 and have a question about the recommended settings in the manual for an 08 XB12X. Per the manual, the max preload for the front is 4 turns. However, I can turn more. Is this adding more preload? Am I damaging anything? Also, what is everyone's sag for an X? I'm sitting at 50mm and have the preloads fully dialed up. I usually like 30-40mm on the street but I'm guessing the long travel and progressive springs are adding to the sag reading. Thanks | ||
| Mark_weiss |
I've been running the front of my '08 set as per the owner's manual. Rear, I'll run 1/2 to 1 full turn more preload than standard. For long rides, I'll reduce rear preload to the spec on the chart. I'm not sure that a steering damper is really necessary at all. I've even taken the Uly to a few track days. It's dead stable. | ||
| Kennywiz |
Anything above 90 isn't stable as the bars start to go all slappy no matter what suspension configuration I go with. My questions are: Per the manual, the max preload for the front is 4 turns. However, I can turn more. Is this adding more preload? Am I damaging anything? Also, what is everyone's sag for an X? I'm sitting at 50mm and have the preloads fully dialed up. I usually like 30-40mm on the street but I'm guessing the long travel and progressive springs are adding to the sag reading. | ||
| Sir_wadsalot |
You can bottom out preload on front or rear, won't hurt anything. Fork springs may wear out faster, as they're under more pressure all the time, but it's fine. Two up setting is full stop on the rear preload, and I end up bottoming out front preload on most bikes trying to tune out brake dive. Try the two up settings, that's where I ended up with my XT. I'm at full on the rear and a half turn out on the front. I do ride two up a lot, but one up it keeps things nice and tight. I bottomed the fronts and it made the bike too tall in front, a bit more twitchey and wheelie prone- with the half turn out and compression maxed, and rear rebound maxed, that's about as good as I could do to kill the dive, which on the XT isn't as bad anyway. I just like it sporty. I think it needs a damper as well, the front is really prone to head shake (but then I ride pretty hard) and unstable at high speed. Like I said, the front preload being full tight made it worse. Having the rear preload at full and the tail up improved handling greatly, I'm going to drop the nose on the forks a few MM to improve that trend. Just applying general sportbike setup to it, but I've never seen a bike so sensative to setup. I thought the 1125R was sensative.... | ||
| Kennywiz |
Thanks! I have 5 turns in the front (manual said max is 4) and I could turn it more. Was worried that I would damage something. I'll try another turn. I also thought about dropping the forks too! Although I'll wait until I have a damper solution as that usually that increases front end "twitchyness" (or at least in teh sportbike world). This place says they have a setup for the 08's http://www.ebay.com/itm/281305155353?_trksid=p2055 119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Out of stock at the moment on the fork mounts. Also, what is everyone's sag for an X? I'm sitting at 50mm and have the preloads fully dialed up. I usually like 30-40mm on the street but I'm guessing the long travel and progressive springs are adding to the sag reading. | ||
| Mark_weiss |
You do not need a steering damper, you need to remedy whatever is wrong with the bike. There should be no wobble at all at any speed the bike can reach. Do you have a large windshield? Should not be a problem, but maybe. How about loading? What sort of stuff are you packing along with you on the Uly? The Ulysses is sensitive to having the rear preload set too low. That will make the front end flighty. Tires? Running Buell's recommended pressures or otherwise? Tire wear (usually not much of an issue). | ||
| Kennywiz |
Thanks! However, I keep seeing that I or the Uly doesn't NEED a dampener. OK, great. I've ridden many bikes that were aided by dampening. In the case of the Uly it's to prevent high speed head shake or wobble. I'm very happy to hear that many riders don't need or wish to employ one. I DO. I truly feel it will fill out the major issues I feel at high speed. My question is not about a damper. I want one and will get one. Anyway... I have the tall XT windscreen and a Palmer adjustable mount. I have tried it at multiple angles and heights. I have also removed the handguards at the suggestion of another member. No change. I have also re-torqued the head bolt to specs. I have the same "shake" with or without cases, loaded or otherwise. Many adjustments to rear preload. Current favorite setting is 1 click from max without any cases attached. NEW PR4's running 36 and 39 psi My question is not about a damper. I want one and will get one. Here are my questions: Per the manual, the max preload for the front is 4 turns. However, I can turn more. Is this adding more preload? Am I damaging anything? Also, what is everyone's sag for an X? I'm sitting at 50mm and have the preloads fully dialed up. I usually like 30-40mm on the street but I'm guessing the long travel and progressive springs are adding to the sag reading. Thanks (Message edited by kennywiz on June 25, 2014) | ||
| Trojan |
I have the tall XT windscreen and a Palmer adjustable mount. There's yor problem straight away. try running the stock screen, and relax your grip on the bars slightly. You will probably be compounding the problem by gripping the bars too tight in expectation of a wobble, and this actually causes them  | ||
| Mark_weiss |
I've had my forks apart a few times for oil changes. You can turn the preload adjuster until it stops, nothing will be damaged. Just don't force the adjuster past where it clearly stops. I have my bike set up for 200/230 lbs. 3 turns up front, but 9.5 to 10 at the back. Compression as per the book, but an extra 1/4 turn of rebound out back. I probably checked sag numbers when the bike was new (usually do) and found that the bike was spot-on with the book settings. I probably have the readings recorded somewhere. Since you are generally looking for about 30% sag with the bike loaded, you are pretty much on target with a 50 mm number (X suspension is about 165 front and 160 rear). Have you tried lowering front preload and leaving the rear up? If the front is set too high the result will be the same as leaving the rear low. Sloppy handling and a flighty front wheel. (Message edited by Mark_weiss on June 25, 2014) | ||
| Kennywiz |
Mark, Thank you so very much for addressing my questions! The bike has less had shake with the front and rear preloads on max rather than the front backed off. Weird right? In fact, leaving the rear max or half turn down and turning the front 1 extra turn to 5 made it possible to get another 5mph at high speeds before the shake enters. If I back off the front, I get too much dive under braking and a vague feeling when entering corners. I know I'm not a tiny guy, but, I am within the weight specs laid down in the manual. I thought about heavier springs and valving but really don't want to incur those expenses and find out that didn't feel better. I understand this is NOT a sportbike but I am a huge fan of setting bikes up as best one can for what a rider expects. Thank you all for your contributions and thanks again Mark! | ||
| Buewulf |
Kennywiz, I am at 42mm for the sag. I'd say 50mm is still on the upper-end Goldilocks-zone for street riding given the travel available to the bike, so you are OK there. Regardless what the chart in the manual says, if you weigh more than 200 lbs and desire a sporty setup, you need stiffer springs. Otherwise, you are maxing out your preload settings, and you need those to effectively trim out that shake you are experiencing. I'll be getting stiffer springs myself come suspension service time. There seems to be enough adjustment in the stacks to avoid a valving change for my weight anyway (200 lbs.) If you find yourself maxing out rebound and compression, a heavier oil may be all you need to get a better range of adjustment rather than revalving. My experience with dropping the front (by raising the forks in the trees) resulted in some nasty headshake under hard braking (pucker!) and at higher speeds with only a marginal improvement in front-end feel and turn in. Your may get completely different results, but I certainly wouldn't try it again. My suggestion outside of respringing is to add an extra 10mm of fork oil to the forks. This will allow you to back off the front a little while greatly improving dive and feel during initial braking (by essentially stiffening the "air spring" in the forks.) Give it a shot and let us know what you think. As a side-thought, I noticed you said you had new tires on the bike. I had an XR600 that would ALWAYS have headshake after removing the front wheel. You may want to loosen the pinch bolts and axle and give the front end about 10 - 15 good bounces then retorque everything just to make sure it is on there straight. Worked everytime on the XR. Just a thought. Good luck on your setup. | ||
| Kennywiz |
Thanks! I'll look into adding fork oil. Guessing I won't have to remove them. Doubtful about the front end, at least here, as the OEM tires (5900 miles)gave me the same shake. Thank you very much though! | ||
| Etennuly |
Kennywiz, I understand your very specific questions, as well as some of the other guys here. They are just trying to help fix the possible underlying original problem. If you prefer the stabilizer by all means get one, but I also have stated that it is not normal for the Uly to shake at any speed, and I agree with Trojan that the tall Buell screen can be the cause of a crapload of this kind of problems for some Uly owners. I know you are tired of hearing this stuff, but I personally tried the Buell tall windshield when they first came out. It was on my bike for all of ten minutes.....enough time to turn around to go back to take the damn thing off. I never got above 65 mph. For me it made my full face helmet shake so bad I could not even see in front of me. Actually my helmet shook so bad that I didn't get to test the performance of that windshield on my bike beyond that. I do have a very large B.A.W that I made that does not shake at speeds or in busy fast traffic. A couple of my buddies had the Buell Tall windshield at the same time noting less problems than I had. I am 6' at 250 lbs, the other guys were taller and not as wide. I test rode one of their Uly's with that same windshield, ending with the same helmet shaking result(I tried two different helmets also). That Uly's owner said that it never did that to him. What the good folks are simply suggesting, if you had not tried it, ride the bike at speed without the windshield. It can make a hell of a difference. The bare fly screen is better than you may think it could be at cutting wind. Sorry about beating the proverbial dead horse.  I would have liked to chime in on your specific questions but to question one.....I don't know if it would damage anything. Question two.....I would have gone out and measured my X Uly's sag to give you another comparison, but after I changed my fork oil and seals I came up an ounce or so short on oil and have not gotten back into it to shore it up to normal. If it sits for a while, the front drops about a half inch standing it up off the side stand. Too many irons in the fire to get it set right at the present time. | ||
| Shagg1970 |
It may be the tires. I had the same high speed wobble with the stock tires and shinko Ravens. Lowering the rear preload and raisinsg the front helped a little. But after I put on Pirelli scorpion trails it is dead steady up to 125, as fast as I'm gonna go, and I came max out rear preload and reduce front to make steering very quick and still steady. | ||
| Kennywiz |
Beating a dead horse... Tires are new as posted before. PR4. And that wasn't my question. Anyway. I'm starting to wonder if everyone that claims their Uly is good stock at high speeds does not have an 08. 08's have 20 degrees more steering angle. | ||
| Bikelit |
That horse is not dead yet. New Michelins made my '08 handle like a cat under 60 but wobble bad over 90. After every suspension adjustment possible, I went back to Pirelli and problem was gone. Never heard of a different steering angle...... | ||
| Kennywiz |
Same speed issues as the OEM Pirellis. Dead horse and that is not what the thread was about. Questions were answered. (Message edited by kennywiz on June 28, 2014) | ||
| Bikelit |
Just trying to help. Good luck with the damper....... | ||
| Danair |
Let us know how that damper works out. | ||
| Rayycc1 |
The 20 degree difference in steering is side to side. the 08+ models would turn further to the stops ....but rake and trail are the same. | ||
| Uly_man |
"Anyway. I'm starting to wonder if everyone that claims their Uly is good stock at high speeds does not have an 08. 08's have 20 degrees more steering angle". I had no problems after setting up the suspension on either of my 06 or 10 bikes and I ride them hard as well? Kennywiz. I have no wish to sound rude or "big" headed but two of the things I have had vast experience of on these bikes is the electrics and suspension set up. I can tell you for a STONE COLD FACT that all you need, apart from the dive, is a good set up. My suggestion would be this if of any help. Forget all you have done, clear your mind, set the bike as per book and start again. Remove the tall screen and leave on the hand guards. Make sure you have a good tire gauge and ride until the rubber is hot. Then find a kerb to ride over to make sure the tire pressures are balanced. Adjust as needed. Then? If you get some head shake, it will be at about 80 mph, back off the gas. If it THEN goes away reach back and lower the rear pre load one turn. Repeat until it stops. You should find that most of it will go away and removing the hand guards will kill all that is left. Saying that though you may find you can have a little, due to air conditions, once in a while but it is not a problem and you can just "drive" through it. This is NOT a perfect guide and you will, as always, need to set it for you. Trust me Kenny if you get this right you will find this bike THE best handling you have ever had. I have had all sorts of VERY expensive sports bikes and know this. I also weight 300lb plus with no issues. Good luck. | ||
| Kennywiz |
Thank you, and I am truly thankful for all the suggestions however... This thread was not created to discuss the efficacy of steering dampers and their application with the Uly. I posed a few suspension setting and adjustment questions that have been answered. As it seems we are continually beating the dead horse, I will follow up to the damper notes. "Forget all you have done, clear your mind, set the bike as per book and start again. Remove the tall screen and leave on the hand guards. Make sure you have a good tire gauge and ride until the rubber is hot. Then find a kerb to ride over to make sure the tire pressures are balanced. Adjust as needed. Then?" "If you get some head shake, it will be at about 80 mph, back off the gas. If it THEN goes away reach back and lower the rear pre load one turn." - Already tried all this and then some. High speed wobble is just that, high speed. Anything above 90-95mph and there is is a very notable head shake starting. I have to slowly back off before a full on speed wobble/tank slapper. I also tried puckering up and passing 105 to see if it clears. It got worse and I totally thought I was going to lose it. 80 is smooth. Digital tire gauge verified by testing against 3 other higher end gauges. Tire pressures set to OEM and tested through other psi as well. Currently sitting at 36/39. I have a standard screen and tried it as well as the tall in multiple positions (Palmer mount). Handguards on or off. Both were offered as resolutions, however, it works better with them on. Started to feel the shake around 85-90 with them off. Tires are new PR4's that were high speed balanced (I watched). No change form the 5k mile OEM Pirellis that came with the bike. No felt vibration or unbalance. I say no change from the head shake but overall they provided a much better feel. I am happy with them and other riders who spend VERY limited time off road should too. I turned the bike over to the suspension guy I used when I was a track day fiend. At one time, I also held a WERA license. He's worked or consulted on everyone of my track, sport, and dirt bikes. He has a mobile workshop that he takes to races and track days, on/off road. We worked on several settings and agreed on an all around setup both good for highway cruising and corner carving. The best we can "tune out" the shake is in it's current setting. That setting is only slightly off from the manual's suggestions. OF COURSE heavier springs, re-valving, and heavier oil would assist the overall handling but he agreed that may not shake the head shake. I an holding off on this option as I don't want to sink a grand into the suspension. He and several others in the business of bike handling agreed that a damper should resolve the issue. I am well aware my 300lb lineman frame doesn't help matters, but I am within the designed operating weight for this vehicle. If dampers are useless, why do many OEM manufacturers spend R&D money on making their bikes handle the best they can, only to add OEM steering dampers???? The BMW GS has an OEM damper. I could go on with more but why. More so, how can you tell someone what they need or don't need? I am happy to hear that you all have your bikes so well sorted that you don't experience the same issues as me. "STONE COLD FACT" However, I am skeptical of the statements. Given the wide bars, ease of which they turn, and the rake I am surprised to see I am the minority. My guess is not too many people take these bikes to those speeds regularly or are not working with an 08. I seriously tried ALL the suggestions or should I say fixes offered by members. While they all are appreciated, they have not worked in my application. I may have found a damper that will fit the 08 bikes. I already tried the GPR but it will not work with the increased steering agle of the 08's. I will advise when I do get one. Until then, I am considering this a dead issue. } Also, try throwing a leg over a Multistrada 1200. I know most of you are Uly or Buell faithful but the "best handling" opinion will change. | ||
| Uly_man |
I do find the wide bars over sensitive for road work which is why I cut them down by 50mm on each end on both my bikes. "High speed wobble is just that, high speed. Anything above 90-95mph and there is is a very notable head shake starting. I have to slowly back off before a full on speed wobble/tank slapper". That was what I was saying. It is an unbalanced set up for this bike. Or as said your bike has another problem. You bought the bike used? Have you considered that there may be a fault with the bike itself? (Message edited by uly_man on June 30, 2014) | ||
| Trojan |
If you buy a biek with tall 'soft' suspension, wide bars and a screen/handguards you really shoudl expect to experience some kind of handling issues over 90mph to be honest. if you want to ride around at 90+ without any handling issues then get a sports bike (or a MUltistrada with electronic suspension adjustment). Most BMW GS1200 riders say that bike weaves at over 90mph but just learn to live with it if they want to keep the bike. It is a bit like saying that my tractor doesn't handle as well as my Aston Martin at 150mph  The answer is probably to remove the screen, lower the suspension, narrow the bars and remove the handguards. or buy an XB12S | ||
| Mark_weiss |
Some OE steering dampers are there for show. The race bike has one so the road version needs to have one too. (there's often a significant difference between the kit damper and the road version). Steering dampers work, there is not doubt about that. It is important though to be certain that the damper is being used as a solution and not a band aid. In my racing experience, even those machines that need steering dampers only need them on certain occasions. These bikes are often pretty near the edge of stability and things such as gator bumps and wheelies may add enough energy to the system that the natural damping of the bike's geometry is not sufficient to damp out the induced wobble. Any machine that I have ever ridden or raced, that 'always' shook at a certain point had something the matter with its componentry or setup. | ||
| Pagprivat |
I've just recently got an 08 too, bought it with pilot road 3 already fitted. Very few miles on them, almost new. My other Uly is an 07 with AngelGT. And I was a bit surprised to find the exact same issues as Kennywiz? My 07 never have any tendencies to wobble at all, smooth as silk all the way up to 120-125 without any prob. And the 08 starts shaking around 80-85, I can even provoke it earlier. It just feels "looser" than the 07 in a way? Haven't done too much dampening tweaking yet, so it is a little early to say that I can't adjust it away, but... Been searching for a steering damper too, but so far all that I've found comes with a note, won't fit the 08... Let's us know if you succeed in finding one or resolve it in another way, I at least would be interested! | ||
| Kennywiz |
Ahhhhhhh... Nice to see I'm not the only one.  If and when I find a damper that will work, I most certainly WILL advise. | ||
| Buewulf |
You are definitely not the only one. I had mounted some fresh rubber and did a track day with no issues. Perhaps a year later on those same tires, I experienced a wobble riding on the street beginning at about 95mph and getting progressively worse as speed increased. I got it out by reducing the pressure in the front tire and/or dialing up a little more preload which I set more softly for street riding (should have made those adjustments separately to identify which one had the effect). Not sure if I eliminated it or just moved the shake up to a higher speed. Need to get to the track to find out I suppose. Regardless, clearly there is something different with the bike since that track day (or myself as I had put on about 20lbs?) Or perhaps that particular road surface even. Is it really the tire pressure or preload that fixed it, or am I just masking the cause? Don't know. Anyway, I disagree with most other Uly riders. I ride the Uly off-road as well, and it could definitely use a damper. Even before I experienced the wobble for the first time, the front end was always a bit flighty above 105mph. But, in the event you can't source a damper, I was able to eliminate the wobble (at least confirmed under 105mph) with geometry changes. So suspension mods (or a different bike?) is a promising plan B, though I think a damper AND suspension mods would be ideal. If you come up short on the damper, you may want to give the peeps at Traxxion Dynamics or Race Tech a call and discuss your issues with them to see what they have to say. Good luck and keep us posted. | ||
| Uly_man |
The 80 - 85 mph thing is something I have had on both my bikes. It is, as Trojan said, a combination of things but you will be able to get over most of that with set up. "However, I am skeptical of the statements. Given the wide bars, ease of which they turn, and the rake I am surprised to see I am the minority. My guess is not too many people take these bikes to those speeds regularly or are not working with an 08". I run mine to 110+ without, a 10 bike so the same, issues although the front can feel "light" sometimes. That is the nature of a naked bike at those speeds. In a straight line you should be able to ride through it but if not then there is still something out of whack. Kennywiz. Trust me guy I know EXACTLY what you are going though and how much of a pain/ scary it is. The problem is that it is a HANDS ON THING and very hard to sort over the net. You would not believe how much time, gas and miles it has taken me to figure out what this bike needs to ride good. The bike is unique and CAN NOT be compared to any other with regards its set up. This was my first mistake. It is a fact that the front end is on the soft side for the way I think you would like to ride. This is NOT due to the springs but the rate/ speed at which the oil moves through the holes/ plates in the forks and no amount of adjustment for an OEM bike will cure that. Add 5ml of heavy oil per for to start with and reduce comp and rebound two turns and go from there. Your bar resistance should feel much like any other bike but if it feels more easy/ loose then you need to increase this and by "feel" if needed. A "loose" feeling will make the front end flighty. Also, but may sound strange, make sure you have a matched compound set of tires and you are NOT losing air from your rubber IE Check the PSI once hot and that it stays the same. I had this once, but did not know it, and it just made a mess of trying to set up the bike. Oh and if you want a damper I would advise on an adjustable rate one and NOT a fixed one. | ||
| Sir_wadsalot |
There seems to be a lot of "leave it stock, you don't understand what it's doing" going around the Ully board. I had a suspension thread and would get ten of those for every two useful posts. I think if you said you were a suspension builder for Traxxion, or used to be Matt Mladin's setup guy, you would still get that answer. Just an observation.... at the risk of sounding like a douche, if you've only ever ridden Buells, on stock suspension settings, or you don't know how to tune suspension outside of the stock setup, your input is not helpful. If I/We tell you over and over again that we've run multiple bikes with multiple settings and done it at the race track, and you continue to come back with "set it by the book, that's what works for me"...again, not helpful. It's like the guitar guys who say "a real player doesn't need a whammy bar, he can use his fingers"...Yeah, I oculd, but i don't have a 12 inch finger span like Eddie Van Halen or Dimebag Darrell. Oh wait, they used whammey bars too. And GP bikes have dampers. Some of you guys are wizards- this semi-douchey comment was not aimed at you, and I do realise you're all trying to be helpful  . See? The smiley makes it semi-douche, as opposed to full on douch-tard, which is where I so often stumble. @Kenny- If my XT needs a damper, your X definately needs one. Any sportbike guy coming off a "normal" bike, getting on a Buell feels terrified, at least I did. Front end geometry is extremely steep, and the uber tall X makes it worse. Even going from my 1125R to the XT, it felt twitchey. The X I rode felt just awful. My deal with the damper is wheelies- I ride hard, and often with the wife on the back. Even just dicing through traffic to catch a light or exit with her on the back, it's skimming the road, leaned over, bars flapping back and forth. I don't have the high speed stability issue like you guys do. It's unstable compared to a focused sportbike.....above 80, input changes and hard throttle snaps upset it, and it takes a half second or so to calm down. I haven't run it past 100 yet, but it's stable in a straight line if I don't touch it....that's just not quite stable enough. As far as settings, like we've touched on the sportbike stuff for dive- lots of rear rebound and front compression will slow that forward movement down. I would max compression and back off a little on front preload, like a quarter or half turn, to lower the front a hair. The XT is supposedly an inch lower than the X....that is where I would point you at this juncture, lowering. The X I rode felt "front high", geometry wise. If the front is high, that will cause lift at high speed, excaserbating the already light action on the stock front end. If you've tried everything else, start lowering the tree on the forks. Again, on a normal sportbike we would go with something like 2mm increments..on the skyjacked X, you could prolly drop it a half inch, see how it feels, and move back up from there, in millimeters. Remember, a full inch is like dropping an atomic bomb on it, a huge change. (I'm gonna start experimenting with dropping my front this weekend, will keep you posted.) Or do it right, down 2mm at a time, I just think it'll take forever on that thing. I would be happy with a cheap fixed rate damper like my SV1K has, just something basic. Although, I have a buddy with a Firebolt and a Lightning, and he has GPR rotary dampers on both. EXCELLENT piece of kit, adjustable on the fly. I think they're $500 though. One of the aforementioned wizards with a useful post mentioned that head bearing torque on these things could be played with. Add a little more to slow the action. I don't have a shop book yet, so I don't know the factory spec is, or even have any idea of a range for that, just repeating what was reccomended. I'm not knocking the X, so no hate mail please, and I'm not knocking the uber light, uber steep Buell front end setup, I'm saying it's not "normal", and there's a learning curve. It's ultra responsive, and super easy at low speed, but there's always a compromise, and you're adding in offroad capability for the X as well. I rode my 1125R to a dealer to trade it in last night, and to be perfectly honest, after three weeks on the Ully XT, it felt awful.... Because now I'm used to the super light front end action. I don't know how I lived with focused sportbikes for the past decade. I freakin' LOVE my Ully :-) (Message edited by sir_wadsalot on July 02, 2014) | ||
| Mark_weiss |
Kennywiz Have you considered reducing your tire pressures to the numbers recommended by either Michelin or Buell? | ||
| Etennuly |
I have actually raised the pressures to 40f and 42r to correct '08 Uly XT ride and tire wear issues, they were cupping and it felt squishy through corners at 36/38. Then at the same time I softened preload on the rear, overall ride results were much improved. I have had it over 105 mph for a couple of miles two different times with good stability. Going to do it again today, if I have time, for the final testing before turning it back to it's owner. | ||
| Uly_man |
I have no problem with people leaving there bikes with the stock OEM/ book set up if they want to do so. The only thing with that is that they may well not get the best out of the bike which is a BIG SHAME with the Uly. Consider this with suspension set up? Two bikes that are exactly the same, in all respects, and set up the same with the same rider may well NOT handle exactly the same way. If you were to then add in all the many other variables you need to consider then there is a lot of time/ work needed to get it right. You need to understand all that it does to do this. It is also very easy to get confused while doing it. Even something as minor as a "hot to cold" day will effect how the suspension works. Maybe it is just me but I find this bike has, for the price, the best suspension of any bike I have ever had. It is why, and I did try to find something else, bought a second Uly. |
