| Author |
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Deeds
| | Posted on Monday, June 02, 2014 - 05:35 pm: | 
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Placed this decal in good humor today! 
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Shagg1970
| | Posted on Monday, June 02, 2014 - 05:55 pm: |
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LOL |
Hughlysses
| | Posted on Monday, June 02, 2014 - 06:21 pm: |
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I did a blackstone analysis. It showed 2x the expected amount of silver, which suggested the crank bearings were stressed.
When the 06's first came out (I believe that was the first year that added silver plating to the roller cages for the connecting rod roller bearings) I saw several UOA's posted in which Blackstone (or whoever) noted silver in the wear products, but apparently they weren't used to seeing ANY silver in the wear products.
I wonder if the amount of silver they found in your oil was high (which might be any silver content at all) or if it was high for a Buell (which might be a much greater amount of silver)? |
Glenn
| | Posted on Monday, June 02, 2014 - 07:46 pm: |
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Thanks Reepicheap and Hughlysses I was wondering what the "50" is coming from but haven't contacted Blackstone to find out.
Love the bike but not the worry that something bad is brewing. |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Monday, June 02, 2014 - 10:14 pm: |
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Well, Glenn can feel good. He's less dead than I am.
I love the sticker!  It can be the 2007 sub club for Uly riders. |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Monday, June 02, 2014 - 10:17 pm: |
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Hugh, good call. I googled up some blackstone buell analysis reports, and most showed high silver (higher than mine even, like in the 150's). |
Etennuly
| | Posted on Monday, June 02, 2014 - 10:43 pm: |
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Hey! That grenade has the pin in it.....no worries!
Reep, my experience has found that 20-50 is too thin for summer, it made mine a noisy buggar and vaporized a bunch of Mobil 1 V-twin stuff in a short time. Give straight 50W or 60W a try for summer. |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 03, 2014 - 08:08 am: |
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Interesting thought Vern. I know in theory that 20w50 and 50w ought to be the same when hot...
But I know from experience they aren't.
OK old Harley guys... How cold a morning can you go on straight 50 weight oil and not hurt something on startup (assuming you otherwise let the bike warm up before just pounding it)? |
Firemanjim
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 03, 2014 - 01:00 pm: |
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Redline makes a 20-60 and Amsoil a 60w racing. |
Sagehawk
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 03, 2014 - 01:38 pm: |
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Ill bite on that reepicheep as being a old harley guy. Turn fuel on. Twist throttle three times to prime motor. Retard the spark a bit for starting. Turn motor to tdc with kickstart lever. Now jump up n come on thru. Did you turn it over at 50°. Repeat at 40°. Repeat at 30°. Repeat at 20°. Whatever temp you broke youre ankle at with motor not turning over is what youll get away with For 50 weight oil. now is a good time to hobble back to house, call in to work for a snow day and appreciate modern bikes. Whew, memory lanes a bitch aint it. That was fun but i was so hoping this site wouldntgo down the old harley guy road. Most of us seem to be in 50ISH range allready. Old guys just read the manual for the recommended weight vs temp thing and decide what to run. Hah! Thats how we got old! |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 03, 2014 - 01:56 pm: |
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Got it. Start until kickstarter removes a kneecap, and back off 5 degrees.
(I have a garage full of kick start bikes, so I have plenty of those scars, just smaller as they were lower displacement. A KLR-250 can break a foot if you try and start it angry.) |
Etennuly
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 03, 2014 - 02:21 pm: |
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When I was riding a lot(everyday)I change oil per the book. That meant 60W for summer running, 50W for late spring early summer and fall. Then I would use 20-50 for winter.
That had me in the upper 60's for cold start ups with the 60W.
With 50W I frequently fired it up in the mid 40F range because it would still end up a 90F afternoon. I let it idle for ten minutes to warm and circulate all of the oil, then ride easy for the first five miles or so.
When it gets too cold for 60W you can tell. It will be reluctant to turn over then be sluggish until it warms a bit.
Given that it is thick, and it gets thicker when cold, it works like STP or Lucas additives in that it will fill and coat every bearing surface with it's gear oil like nature. IMHO lubrication on start up is as complete as it can be, but oil flow is slower.
My Uly only has 60,000+ miles on it. Time will tell if what I run is a good idea. So far it does not smoke, uses less than a pint of oil in 3,000 miles, and runs smoother and quieter than when I tried Mobil 1 V-Twin 20-50W. |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 03, 2014 - 03:36 pm: |
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Thanks Vern, good info. I'll have to see if I can scare up some good 50 weight full synthetic. |
Turf_moor
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 03, 2014 - 04:23 pm: |
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Etennuly, you liken it's coating qualities to STP or Lucas additives. So what do you think of these as additives to 20W50 mineral oil?
When I had a BMW R1100GS I used to put a tin of STP in the oil the first time it needed 300 ml. |
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