| Author | Message | ||
     Sugarmcguinnmsncom |
... Already twisted the tips off 2 ratchets... I don't have any heat... I could probably pick up one of those small propane bottles and tips, but would that even get hot enough to do anything?? What next?? Thanks Guys!! | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Surgarmc, Did you loosen the axle pinch bolt that is located on right side real close to where you are trying to loosen the axle? If you don't loosen that then you'll never turn that axle. Make sure you coat the axle with Permatex never-seize and it will never cause a problem again. | ||
| Skifastbadly |
Hate to ask a stupid question but did you loosen the bolt that locks the axle in place? | ||
| Skifastbadly |
dang, too slow | ||
| Sugarmcguinnmsncom |
I'd hope you guys would at least afford me that one?!?! LOL!!! Yes, pinch bolt is more than adequately loosened. As for the anti seize... I am religious about it. But I didn't put on the last tire, so I can't attest to that one... And so... Any suggestions??? | ||
| Teeps |
Apply penetrating oil, let it sit a few hours. Then reapply more. A Map Gas torch will get axle plenty hot enough. http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=148 722-13877-WK2201C&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productI d=50126407&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofoll ow&cId=PDIO1 Probably wouldn't hurt to warm the axle a bit before oiling it. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Propane would work fine, you aren't trying to cut it out, you are just trying to put it through a few thermal cycles to break up whatever in there is sticking it. The axle and swingarm will expand and contract at different rates and that could break bonds. In fact a hair dryer would even be useful. Add penetrating oil as it is heating and cooling. Also, the factory tool has some slop in it. If you weld it, you can get a much better "impact" on the axle. And you want impact to break free a stuck bolt/axle. Much more effective than just a breaker bar. | ||
| Reepicheep |
(I think you can reverse a spark plug socket, and put the top of it in the axle in place of the axle tool, that would have less slop.) | ||
| Sugarmcguinnmsncom |
Cool! Thanks guys! Reepicheep - I actually use the ass-end of a 13/16" spark plug socket. It fits great and has no slop. Only wish it was 1/2" Drive... | ||
| Teeps |
I bought one of these: http://americansportbike.com/newdir/Item/9153 From Al @ American Sport Bike. | ||
| Etennuly |
Are you using 3/8" drive? If so you are going to have to step up to the world of 1/2"! Too much torque for the little guys, and you will need to get 52 ft lbs of measured tightening force, so get the 1/2 torque wrench and socket now. | ||
| Djohnk |
The first time I broke mine loose it was stuck so bad I was sure I was going to break something. I double checked on the forums I was turning it the right way (the back axle is NOT reverse threaded). I can't remember if I used a breaker bar or cheater pipe and 1/2" ratchet ... but remember I eventually was barely was able to get it to creak loose. Buy the way, I'm a big guy and bench over 300lbs. A trick I sometimes use on stubborn bolts is kind of counter-intuitive, but I learned it from watching a compressor mechanic, who I really respect for his mechanical skills. Work it back and for a little at first, tighten then loosen repeatedly. It seems like it works, but it may be in my head. | ||
| Sugarmcguinnmsncom |
I think Etennuly has hit on something... I've been dousing with penetrating oil, heat, and strategically placed dead-blows for the last 2-hours.... Not even a budge... Also, Have twisted of 2 more 3/8-2" extensions... this, obviously, isn't working... I think the 1/2 torque has some validity in this situation... | ||
| Sugarmcguinnmsncom |
Well.... I will confess... after many hours of eeking back and forth, heating, broken tools, and copious amounts of penetrating oil... I decided that my friend Dave, at Seattle Cycle Center, was closer than Harbor Freight and that 1/2 inch drive... Dave took pity on me at 5:35 and waved me in.... I will say, that even with his 1/2 air-hammer... that Buell axle didn't give up easily... I honestly doubt I would have broken it on my own.... (at least that's what I'm telling myself)... Anyway, The Uly is back in the garage, yet I'm slightly afraid to pull the axle (Dave only broke it open)... I'm hoping for minimal corrosion.... Thanks All... Sometimes, you just need an air-hammer LOL!!! | ||
| Kenm123t |
do you have Access to a Tig welder ? if you do turn it down as low as you can seal of the opposite side from the threaded end so your gas flow will fill inside of the axle. Ground lead will have to be attached to the swing arm. do not use the brake rotor unless you plan on wheel bearing replacement. You may have to do it that way if your axle is stuck in the bearings. heating with the welder this way will allow you put the heat directly on the corroded parts. Buy some Aero Kroil its the best thing for aluminum corrosion careful with it its flammable | ||
| Ourdee |
Glad you got it loose. | ||
| Teeps |
Etennuly Posted on Friday, May 30, 2014 - Are you using 3/8" drive? If so you are going to have to step up to the world of 1/2"! 1/2 drive should not be necessary under normal circumstances. Etennuly Posted on Friday, May 30, 2014 - Too much torque for the little guys, and you will need to get 52 ft lbs of measured tightening force, so get the 1/2 torque wrench and socket now. My Snap-On 3/8s drive torque wrench (click type) can do 5ft/lbs to 75ft/lbs. It's all I've ever used on the Ulysses. | ||
| Etennuly |
I have to admit I have a 3/8" drive Snap-on ratchet that has suffered the wrath of a 16" pipe extension many times. Some how that particular brand's 3/8" drive holds up to some over use, and is probably rated at a higher torque rating than most Harbor Freight's 1/2" drive stuff. The first time I loosened my Uly's rear axle I used a 3/4" drive breaker bar with two and a half feet of pipe, with my 250 pounds of nearly dead weight on it(heavy shoes)  making like I was starting a 1965 Harley. My professional impact wrenches, a Snap-On and an IR 1/2" drives, would not break it loose. I was afraid to use my 1" drive monster big truck air wrench. It was ugly with wet fresh corrosion. Anti-sieze has made sure that problem never came back. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
One of the first things I did when we got our second ULY, the 07 for my son, was to remove the axles and coat them with Permatex anti-seize. I knew from reading here that if I waited I would pay the price. I did pay the price on my wife's 07' Sportster because I waited for her to wear the original tire out before taking that axle out. I had to pound that rear axle out and then repair the pounding damage with a file. Anti-seized that baby so I wouldn't have to go through that again. Probably very good advice to anyone with a new motorcycle is to preventively remove the axles and coat them with anti-seize. Or wait and pay the piper. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Just did this for a friend yesterday, 2007 Lightning with only 6000 miles. The axle was hard, but those bolts for the rear caliper were murder. There didn't appear to be anything on them from the factory. | ||
| Sir_wadsalot |
Yeah, I had my first rear wheel done at a reputable dealer....same deal. I put my giant 3/4 impact on it, but didn't have enough air to run it properly. Broke a 1/2 inch breaker too... ended up borrowing a 1 inch ratchet set with a three foot handle from my neighbor to break it loose. Ridiculous. Went & got some anti sieze & a digital torque wrench to do it correctly. (This was on an 1125R, reverse threads.) You really should have a 1/2 inch breaker though, and 1/2 torque wrench for heavy work, and a 3/8ths for inch pounds. Since I have girle air at my new house, I got an electric impaact- that baby will cure what ails you. I didn't even get the good DeWalt one, just the cheap "Kawasaki" branded one from tractor supply for $75. IMO- a little bit of everything helps. | ||
| Buellmeister57 |
Same here, PB Blaster and a 3ft. breaker bar. Was worried I damaged something getting it out but everything seemed OK. Coated the axle with anti-seize. About due for a new rear tire, hope this time is easier. |
