| Author | Message | ||
     Electraglider_1997 |
Leakey rear head gasket on my son's 07 Uly so I dove into the full rotation bit for the first time for me. I seemed to miss the first thing I was supposed to do and that is to run the gas lines out of gas. Muffler's off and velocity stack is bare so I'm hoping that I can just spray a bit of gas when I disconnect the fuel line. Can anyone with experience with rotating the engine tell me if I'm going to run into a big problem because I failed to run the fuel lines out of fuel. Feel like an idjut. | ||
| Mark_weiss |
Just wrap a rag around the fitting as it's released. Wear eye protection, just in case. | ||
| 7873jake |
You'll be fine. Like Mark said above. I didn't run mine empty and had no pressure, no issues. One of the little release tabs on the connector on mine broke off but the fitting still grabs and holds. Expect them to be brittle and be pleasantly surprised if they aren't. While you have it down, check the idle adjustment device. Re-sleeve it with high-heat shrink wrap or order a new one. Mine had disintegrated to a rusty lump marking up the rocker box cover. If you bugger up any of the allen head hardware during disassembly, H-D stocks the bits in their parts bins for a few cents, literally. In fact, you could probably replace all of the hardware while you are in there for a few bucks. If nothing else, keep in mind that the Allen head stuff is grade 8, most are 10-24 threads IIRC. Clean as much of the old oil off the heads and cylinder as you can so you can see if the new work is holding up. Also a good time to Thermo-Tec barrier the inside of the frame. Sorry, sorta took off there but if you're going in, go loaded for bear (or beer).  --Jake (I changed it for Vern) (Message edited by 7873jake on May 19, 2014) | ||
| Etennuly |
YEAH BEER!  .....oh wait.....he said BEAR..... Never mind! | ||
| Sagehawk |
Eg 97, i forgot a few things to be done, but with this site i found plenty to do during a motor roll. Took 5 months to wrap project up and am creating a idea of what to do at a interval and do on a weekend. Curious, as you said head gasket. Havent heard a lot of those popping on this site. | ||
| Arry |
"Leaky rear head gasket..." You probably have a leaky rear rocker box cover gasket. ? I made the mistake of only replacing the rear gasket (figured if it's not broke don't fix it), but the next year the front one started leaking (rotate again). Also, once rotated, the clean up is a pane, as there isn't much room to reach in there. And you want to clean up the fan as well as you can, because the buildup of crud (from the oil leak)can cause the fan to fail prematurely. | ||
| Djohnk |
During rotation is a good time to change the spark plugs, it's much easier at that time because you don't have to worry about cross treading that rear one. | ||
| Mark_weiss |
Pushing 'in' on the fuel connector, before squeezing the release, takes stress off of the tabs. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
I mean the rear rocker box gasket. Thanks mucho for all the quick replies. Trouble sleeping last night because of this. You guys are great.  I'll check and do all that you guys have suggested. Funny thing is and very good thing also is that my 06' has no oil leaks and has over twice the miles. Mine was bought new and this 07 was bought used and probably had this leaky rocker gasket before we bought it just two weeks before Buell was shuttered. This 07 has always had less vibration than my 06 but I love my bike and I hope that doesn't sound too weird. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
how high does the rear wheel need to be off the ground for best forward rotation and does the front wheel need to be removed? | ||
| Reepicheep |
While you have it rotated, that's a good time to pull apart that wire bundle under the frame from the steering head and look for cracking wires as well. I never run the fuel empty before I do an engine rotation. Just don't smoke while you do it, and don't do it on a hot engine. When you put the rocker box back on, take your time bolting it down so the lifters can bleed down without breaking anything. And don't panic when you start it back up and it taps like crazy until they pressure back up. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Back wheel height isn't important. I just put a piece of rebar through the axle and put jack stands on either side and tip it on to get the rear wheel about 1" off the ground. I believe the front wheel does have to come off in order to let the motor rotate further forward. Paint the exhaust while you have it off during warm weather also. Black engine paint seems to last much better than black BBQ paint, FWIW. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Reepicheep, Thanks for the info especially about the lifter tapping noise. That tip alone will sure stave off anxiety when that noise starts. I've already got the rear wheel end supported by two jack stands and a bar as I learned on this site some time ago. If that was your idea then thanks. As for supporting a wheel-less front end, maybe my wheel balance stand will do the trick. Thank God for this badweb and all its good folks. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Yeah... that was my idea. Right after I read it here and slapped my forehead and thought "why the hell didn't I think of that!?!?".  I'm trying to remember how I supported the rest of the bike, I've done it several times but I forget now. I'm thinking I just left the exhaust can in place, and used a floor jack to support then lower and raise the engine. Or maybe I pulled the exhaust can off first, then just put a floor jack under the front of the motor and used that to lift it up and down. Either way, you will have a jack under it when you go to take the front wheel off. If you do have to remove the can (I think you do), just remove it before you remove the front wheel. | ||
| Xbimmer |
You can leave the front wheel in place, the engine will rotate far enough forward. I recently did mine with just the Pitbull holding up the rear. Removed the belt so not to stress it (broke anyway last week, but over 40K on it so I think it was time). It'll amaze you how much easier it is to work on stuff. I'm having some heating issues right now after my overhaul which I'm pretty sure is a rear intake seal not seated properly and I'm gonna roll the motor forward again to fix it instead of attempting (again) the PITB procedure with the engine in place. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I always freak out before an engine rotation... and when I start it, it feels like a bunch of fussy little steps. Then I look at the engine in front of me, ***so*** easy to get to anything, and I look at the clock behind me, and realize it's only been 30 minutes and I wasn't even rushing. Then I tell myself not to be such a baby next time and get on with working on the bike. | ||
| Firemanjim |
To get to gasket engine will rotate far enough with front wheel on and probably not necessary to even remove fuel line. I almost always leave them. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
I rotated the engine thanks in part to you guys. The 4 screws that hold the rocker box on sure weren't very tight and maybe that is why it leaked. Probably tightening them all up would have cured the leak but I won't take that chance. I ordered the gaskets and a new vent hose and the grommet that holds the PCV. The hose is all chewed up from removing from the airbox baseplate a few times. Naturally I see now that I could of just reversed the hose since it is pretty much a right angle piece. Only a couple of bucks so no great shakes. I torqued up the front rocker box covers screws and hope that is preventative for the front cylinder. I'm sure I didn't need a new grommet either but I ordered it anyway. While I'm at it I'll drill and retap the side stand holes to handle 7/16 grade eight bolts so that the inevitable 1/4-20 bolt shear failure will never happen. I worked on my 06' ULY but I had a sheared bolt there to get out and it was a bear. I'll also take care of the 77 connector issue with the same mod I learned from BadWeb's Ratbuell which I did last year to my 06 ULY with no problem. I'm expecting this 07 ULY to quit leaking oil and then my son can start riding it again without it ruining anymore shoes and pants. | ||
| Pagprivat |
Just did my rocker boxes too last week, rear was starting to leak bad. (Went from a tiny sweat to leakage in about 2k miles) Like said above, a good opportunity to thermotec inside of the frame, but I'd also add intake seals to the list. They're only 5 bucks or thereabouts at American Sport Bike, and with all the problems people are seeing I'm considering it cheap insurance to replace them frequently. I know it is possible without rotating (been there done that), but it is soooo much smoother with the engine down. And you can clean up the stack real good at the same time too | ||
| Reepicheep |
Cool! good info. I should have replaced my intake seals last time I was in there also. | ||
| 7873jake |
EG, I don't recall the torque values being that high so don't be surprised if they seem(ed) loose. IIRC, the rocker covers were only around 140-150 IN-LBS The lower fasteners were around 20 FT LBS on the big hardware and, again IIRC, the smaller Allen bolts were only 140-150 IN LBS If they were finger tight, wellllll, that's a different story | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
It just didn't seem that it took anything to loosen them up, especially the back left one that I tried first. Considering all the engine shaking, and propensity for leakage, you'd think that these rocker boxes would be fastened more aggressively. Probably makes Harley dealers a fortune in replacing these gasket seals when it is probably just not a tight enough fit. I bet the dealer tightens them down better than the book says. I'm thinking it is just a piss poor design because in this day and age an owner shouldn't have to be messing with these kinda problems. | ||
| Arry |
"...piss poor design..." The new gaskets are an updated design, and seem to hold up better. | ||
| Sagehawk |
What i mostly did for my motor roll. Bout 80 bucks worth of 2x4, plywood, chock. Good for mowers, bikes, road king, sporster, and even strapping the wife down if she needs a whipping ! Life is good, lower level is plywood so you can put removed parts under for storage. Push bike up , tie down n go for broke. Right height i thought. Never thought bout raising rear. Anyhow, just another take of how to do unpopular job. }   | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Sagehawk, Nicely done. I like seeing these sorts of things because it gets the creative juices flowing. I used 4 jack stands and bars through the hollow axles. I only have a one stall garage which is a pain in hail country. When I rotated down the engine I used a screw jack to let it down in a controlled fashion but had to keep hammering back the base of the jack to keep it in a straight upright position. Otherwise I'm sure it would have flipped over as the engine was lowered. Should have it all back together by end of next week. Awaiting parts. | ||
| Sagehawk |
Floor jack was interesting as almost didnt have enough height room to get job done but it worked in the end. Check on youre breathers as they have a small sponge in bottom of plastic valve. I think they get grunged up and need changing out every coupla years actually, wife suggested idea of table as monies go so far and lift monies are slim. Not always do we need top ideas, thoughts, or expenses. American ideas , circa pan, knuckle, shovel seem to work. It did then and does npw. Took forever to get accepted at duncs hawg shop and not quiet as long here . All have good ideas, just not as mechanical as others. So acceptance of others is needed. Do all parties with short patience a favor. Teach them and they will learn. Yall allready know my age n thought processes so i appreciate the patience shown to others. Tis a grasshopper moment to be sure! Thanks eg 97 as we all need to push each other into different means to achieve the goal at hand! To enjoy our ulleys at the highest level possible. Am done now. All, please enjoy youre weekend as youre familys as well! go alaska aces in game four! | ||
| Gp81 |
ok, now I have a question.... is it necessary to remove the idler pulley for rotation??? | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Gp81, Maybe not. But for sure it appears that you need to get the drive belt off the front pulley since the pulley rotates forward and down. I removed the idler pulley and to do this I had to remove the 3 screws from the footpeg/heel guard bracket. If you have the hard bags on your bike you don't have to remove the hardbag bracket that attaches to the footpeg/heel guard bracket, just move the footpeg bracket out far enough to remove the idler pulley. Of course that is only if you really need to remove the idler pulley. It just wasn't that big of a deal to me considering the scope of the rotation job, just an extra total of 5 more screws. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
All the screws and bolts I removed I put in zip lock bags that I clearly marked what part the screws came from so that when putting things back together I shouldn't be putting parts on with the wrong screws. And I shouldn't have any reason to end up with any extra screws wondering where they should have gone. It's a fairly big job and a period of time between taking apart and then waiting for the parts before putting it all back together. | ||
| Gp81 |
THX.... I got it now lol.... I was having a problem freeing up the rear axle bolt which is why I asked... broke my 3/8 drive breaker bar in the process... switched up to the 1/2" and finally got it. appreciate the response though. First time rotating the engine.... this should be fun... |
