Author |
Message |
Rayycc1
| Posted on Sunday, March 16, 2014 - 06:45 pm: |
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Hi guys n gurls...Just picked up my new to me 06 Uly. When i bought the bike the seller hooked me up with some extras he had been given when he bought the bike. I have a few questions about the bike...I have a service manual on the way...as well as a hyper pro Spring lowering kit. My first question is how do you move the rear seat back position? I know it moves forward or back or up and down...but i have no clue how to move it. My second question...I know they had problems with the 06 rear wheel bearings...My new uly has 9223 miles and i would like to know whats up with my bearings? have they been changed? is there anyway to look at them and tell? The bike came with a spare rear wheel...I have no clue why nor does the guy i bought it from. He said the original owner gave it to him when he bought the bike so he gave it to me. The wheel bearings are in the spare wheel and seem to be fine. Finally...the bike came with a box that contains a software disc and a cable to connect with the bike. The software is..."Technoreaserch Vehicle Diagnostic scan tool software VDSTS standard version ( Buell VDO-EFI) " what does this do and how is it used? Thats all for the questions....I was also given a Buell...own the curves single strap back pack...a Buell expanding tank bag and two spare seats...one the 06 tall seat in black/Barricade Orange...and the other is the low seat in the same colors...I may be interested in parting with these seats as i wont be needing either of them. Thanks for your replies in advance!...Ray |
7873jake
| Posted on Sunday, March 16, 2014 - 06:58 pm: |
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Ray, Welcome and congratulations. Does your chrome plating shop do mail order? I have a few Brit bike pieces that I will need to get rechromed in the future once I can get my Buell back on the road. It has gotten increasingly difficult to find people who chrome. It isn't like the stuff is toxic or anything. I will answer one of your questions: the seat back has a slot at the base (in the grab handle) on the shifter/clutch side. The design intention was for the user to insert a key or flat blade screwdriver, depressing a release that would allow the seat back to slide side to side thus disengaging the backrest from the index. At that point, the backrest would rotate up and down. I didn't move mine for several years and the little mechanism inside the grab handle froze making it difficult to move the backrest. If yours doesn't move freely, this may be the reason. There are people here with a PhD in bearings and the software package you mention...I will defer to them. It sounds like you got a few of the unobtanium accessories (bag and tank bag). Good on ya. -Jake |
Rayycc1
| Posted on Sunday, March 16, 2014 - 07:03 pm: |
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we do ship and receive parts from all over the world. I found the slot the other day and tried a screw driver and it wont budge. I guess a good shot of wd40 might do the trick? |
Britchri10
| Posted on Sunday, March 16, 2014 - 07:28 pm: |
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WD40 first & if that doesn't shift it squirt some penetrating oil into the slot and let it sit for 24 hours. Welcome & congrat's on the purchase. Chris C |
Callawegian
| Posted on Sunday, March 16, 2014 - 08:47 pm: |
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Congrats on the buy. My 06 has 22555 miles and no wheel bearing failure yet. That might change with my next set of tires. With the backrest as my wife calls it, you might try tapping a small flat tip screwdriver with a mallet to work it loose. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Sunday, March 16, 2014 - 09:48 pm: |
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Some rear wheel bearings just failed. Many rear wheel bearings failed because somebody did not follow the manual torque instructions to the letter when they re-installed the rear wheel. That crushes the inner spacer, so if you reuse it, it makes the next bearings fail faster also. If replace the tire, follow the manual procedure and torque specs to the letter. if you replace the bearings, replace the spacer. Pack a spare set of bearings and spacers along for road trips. Drill the two mounting holes for your belt tensioner slightly larger and put it back on. It will make tire removals easier, and make belts and bearings last longer. I don't think this is necessary on the normal suspension travel buells, but on the Uly's I think it helps. You will love the bike! (Message edited by reepicheep on March 16, 2014) |
Mtdan
| Posted on Sunday, March 16, 2014 - 10:13 pm: |
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Reepicheep, When opening the holes on the belt tensioner "slightly", does that mean 1/16 of an inch, 1/8 of an inch, etc. ? What constitutes slightly? thanks. |
Griffmeister
| Posted on Sunday, March 16, 2014 - 11:14 pm: |
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For a quick check, look at the color of the seals on the sides of the bearings. The older bearings that were giving problems had orange seals, the newer bearings had black seals. Of course, even the newer bearings still failed which is why they came out with the three bearing wheel. The important thing is to just be aware of their condition. At every oil change make sure that the wheel spins smoothly and there is no wobble. At any time, just look at the bearing for any sign of rust or even grease leaking out of the seals. Congrats on the bike. Hope you enjoy yours as much as we enjoy ours. |
Ryanco
| Posted on Sunday, March 16, 2014 - 11:23 pm: |
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That's funny to learn about the slot for releasing the triple tail. My Uly is still very new to me, so I thought mine was functioning normally. I just open the collar and the tail will slide over for repositioning, and then it pops back in once in the new position. Guess my lock is stuck in the open position, but I actually prefer it. That tail won't go anywhere, especially with the collar in place. Since I have a top case, I only use it flat on the seat or upright anyways. Really does seem overkill to have the lock, because even without the collar, it takes pretty deliberate force to slide it over. Probably a liability thing for incredibly squirrelly passengers. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Monday, March 17, 2014 - 08:10 am: |
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I think I did mine about 1/8th. |
Fotoguzzi
| Posted on Monday, March 17, 2014 - 09:01 am: |
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maybe you have an extra rear wheel because it has been upgraded to the 3 bearing 2010 rear? want to sell the tank bag? |
Fotoguzzi
| Posted on Monday, March 17, 2014 - 09:03 am: |
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I would be interested in the CD with VDST on it too.. |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Monday, March 17, 2014 - 09:39 am: |
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See my post in the other copy of this thread... |
General_ulysses
| Posted on Monday, March 17, 2014 - 10:49 am: |
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If I'm understanding you properly you're having trouble getting the rear backrest to flip up from the down position? If so, one thing that really helps is to press down on the backrest with one hand while you pull on the splined sliding mechanism with the other. The seat pushes against the backrest in a way that creates friction against the splines and makes it difficult to slide the seat sideways prior to flipping it up. Pressing down on the backrest makes it much easier to slide it sideways prior to flipping it up, or returning it to its stowed position. Clarifying edit: Of course you have to flip the plastic "C" shaped locking mechanism up prior to sliding the splined locking mechanism sideways. (Message edited by General_ulysses on March 17, 2014) |
Tootal
| Posted on Monday, March 17, 2014 - 01:31 pm: |
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+1 Fotoguzzi. If your rear axle is silver then you have an original style wheel. If it's been anodized black, you have a 2010 wheel with 3 larger bearings and actual bearing seals. I hope that's why you have a spare wheel, big improvement. I didn't know the 06 had a lock on the flip tail. Mine has always just pushed to the side after flipping up the lock clip. |
Milo_h
| Posted on Monday, March 17, 2014 - 03:58 pm: |
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Here's a pic from 06. Should help clarify things.
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Milo_h
| Posted on Monday, March 17, 2014 - 04:04 pm: |
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Or maybe this one is better?
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Rayycc1
| Posted on Monday, March 17, 2014 - 05:31 pm: |
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I got it to move today everyone ...thanks. Oh...both my original ,,,and spare wheels have orange bearings so it looks like i'll be replacing those sooner than later. |
Jstav2012
| Posted on Monday, March 17, 2014 - 06:10 pm: |
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I think the little key slot reduces a slight bit of friction lock based on the drawing. I just hit mine real hard and it always moves without pushing in on the slot. |
Goodburbon
| Posted on Monday, March 17, 2014 - 09:38 pm: |
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My 06 didn't require me to do the key thing to operate the triple tail, I looked like an idiot in the parking lot trying to figure out the tail on my 09. |
Natexlh1000
| Posted on Tuesday, March 18, 2014 - 10:02 am: |
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If it can be moved without the key, I would suggest opening it up and cleaning out the mechanism. |
Woodnbow
| Posted on Tuesday, March 18, 2014 - 10:25 am: |
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Ummm.. I'd rather it moved without the key. It seems as though the clip would be sufficient to hold the backrest in position positively. |
Froggy
| Posted on Tuesday, March 18, 2014 - 10:33 am: |
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You can modify it to operate without the key, if yours works without the key then odds are a previous owner did that already. I did mine years ago, if I remember right it was pieces 9 and 24 in the diagram above. It will let you move it single handedly. |
Buewulf
| Posted on Tuesday, March 18, 2014 - 10:48 am: |
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"Oh...both my original ,,,and spare wheels have orange bearings so it looks like i'll be replacing those sooner than later." The color of the seal doesn't matter, IMO. Owners have reported plenty failures of both. If the ones in your wheels are good, I wouldn't bother changing them out. I doubt there is anything materially different about the black seal bearings. Welcome aboard. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Tuesday, March 18, 2014 - 12:51 pm: |
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Hmmm. Now you have me thinking about epoxy and a post into mine. I kind of like the extra insurance of more than that little clip, but its a hassle to have to fish out the key. Gluing a post in there might just turn it into a button to push... |
Woodnbow
| Posted on Tuesday, March 18, 2014 - 01:19 pm: |
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Or if part #24 is not plastic maybe it could be drilled and tapped for a stainless buttonhead? |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Tuesday, March 18, 2014 - 01:34 pm: |
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Good idea. Anybody got a better picture of part #24? |
Uly_dude
| Posted on Tuesday, March 18, 2014 - 02:25 pm: |
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I did the beaver tail insert key elimination long ago. I found that whenever I wanted to move the tail position, the key was in the bike and it was running! It's easy to take apart(but save the little pieces), modify it, and put some silicone sealant in that key slot. Easy peasy. If you keep an eye on those orange bearings(whenever the wheel is off, pop off the orange seals and look for grease. If needed add more grease) they will go forever. They just happen to be the kind of bearing that isn't completely airtight. Like the bearings on your boat trailer. After putting it in the water a few times you'd better check em. |
Rayycc1
| Posted on Wednesday, March 19, 2014 - 12:56 am: |
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Thanks for all of the help and replies. I'm really happy with the bike so far. I got a lowering kit that has springs for the shock and progressive springs for the forks. $379 shipped. Ouch. I guess its worth it though...I'll feel safer being able to touch the ground lol. along with the bike...I'm happy to have found this forum...seems like a lot of knowledgeable and friendly people here. The way it ought to be :-) |