| Author | Message | ||
     Brakes2late |
The roller bearing directly behind the front sprocket is shot. Any chance of replacing it without splitting the cases? | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
Not a good start for 2014 ,have a look here http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/327 77/718221.html?1388202561 | ||
| Brakes2late |
Thanks. That thread is exactly what I was looking for... | ||
| D_adams |
My misfortune is your gain for knowledge. The bearing is held in by the C-clip from the outside, but you will not be able to pull it without splitting the case. It's a press fit, although it can be done with a bar and threaded rod if your placement is correct. A bfh works as well, that's what I used to remove it. Motor is mostly back together now, need to do the clutch side still. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I used the threaded rod and some big heavy conduit fittings from my local home store when I did my M2 (which is very similar to the Uly there)... pressed it out and in that way, it worked great. It takes a lot of force, so I would be really hesitant to use a BFH... | ||
| Uly_man |
It is a know issue that this bearing can suffer from lack of enough lubrication which is why some use the aftermarket alloy plug with a grease nipple to add extra oil to the bearing.  At near 90k miles I would think it is more "wear and tear" than anything else. Also if you are tearing down your engine you may want to look over other parts of it while you are doing the work on the bearing. I would? | ||
| Brakes2late |
From what I can see from the outside, it's a double row ball bearing. | ||
| Brakes2late |
Local dealer doesn't carry but can order it. Not sure of lead time though. | ||
| Reepicheep |
On my M2, the one inside that assembly was two sets of needle bearings, and the one on the outside was a monster FAG ball bearing. I assume the XB's are the same, but could be wrong. | ||
| Brakes2late |
I spoke to the dealer and it comes up as a double row ball bearing. $37.50. Unfortunately he doesn't have it in stock. From D_adams thread, it appears the XB9 is a single row. | ||
| Brakes2late |
Ordered the bearing and seal. Ready to drop motor. I tried pulling the bearing from the outside but that was a waste of time. | ||
| Brakes2late |
Outer Ball Bearings  | ||
| Brakes2late |
Inner ball bearings after failed attempt at pulling bearing. All I did was rip out the front row of balls.  | ||
| Brakes2late |
And finally, what's left of the front half of the inner race with my makeshift puller bolts still attached.  | ||
| Brakes2late |
While I was at the dealer I took a pic of the parts list and drwg.  (Message edited by brakes2late on January 02, 2014) | ||
| Arry |
I don't have the Free Spirits belt tensioner, but I keep wondering if that is the answer to so many broken belts, rear wheel bearings, and counter shaft bearings...? | ||
| Reepicheep |
Cool! They did change that bearing. Wonder why, I would think a needle bearing would support a greater load. You got further pulling it than I thought you would. There is another option besides the free spirits unit... many of us just took the stock tensioner, and used a step drill to make the two holes that bolt it to the engine cases a size larger. That lets it bolt up a little "skewed" and takes a little tension off. On the XB9, I never felt the belt bind up the suspension. But on the Uly I could feel it with my fat behind, lots of luggage, and a big bump. Once I drilled out those mounting bolts, I don't feel it anymore, and the belt is still nice and tight. I think the design had some tolerance stackup issues on some bikes and would bind, particularly ones with the longer suspension travel. I will say that in this case, 90k miles is pretty dang good regardless, so it couldn't have been *that* bad. | ||
| Brakes2late |
Hoping to have the motor apart by the end of the weekend. New bearing should be in at the dealer Tuesday. After seeing the size of this bearing it's hard to believe the tension from the belt has much to do with the bearing going bad. The damn thing is twice the size of the axle bearings on my truck! | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
Its the load of the belt and not enough lubrication of the bearing. | ||
| Woodnbow |
How often are you guys seeing this bearing failure? 90K miles later almost anything can happen but is this relatively common? | ||
| Reepicheep |
We have, to the best of my knowledge, seen it twice here on XB's. Which would translate to "almost never". But both came up recently, so it probably sounds like a bigger problem than it is. The poor lubrication was (is?) true of the needle bearings inside that assembly. What is failing here is the outside bearing, which generally gets lots of lube, as evidenced by the fact that it drools everywhere when that seal fails. IMHO of course. | ||
| Woodnbow |
That's been my experience with Sportsters too. And they have the single row ball bearing. And the seal failure/trans fluid all over the rear wheel issue... | ||
| Dpb |
My bearing went at 30,000 miles. New bearing and spring tensioner, got 61k and no problems. Also the 2010 rear wheel. | ||
| Brakes2late |
Any tips on getting the flywheel nut loose? Clutch main shaft came lose right away but the nut on the crank won't budge. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Put the locking bar into the primary sprockets to stop them from turning, and use a giant breaker bar. It is probably something like 230 foot pounds. I think that bolt has threads the opposite of normal as well, make sure you are turning it the "wrong" way. | ||
| Brakes2late |
Just went out and bought a 1/2" impact. Manual doesn't specify left or right thread. It does for clutch though. (Message edited by Brakes2late on January 04, 2014) | ||
| Brakes2late |
Got it. It was right hand (normal) thread. | ||
| Brakes2late |
Motor is out and on the stand. Tomorrow it comes apart! | ||
| Reepicheep |
Check the magnets on the stator bell and make sure the glue is still tight. I think that's the only concern with putting a pneumatic impact wrench on there. In general I think it is harmless, I do it on dirt bikes all the time. | ||
| Brakes2late |
Ok, thanks. |
