| Author | Message | ||
     Panhead_dan |
I finally got some time to install the new 2010 wheel I ordered a year ago. The problem is with the bolts that hold the pulley to the '06 wheel. I tried heating them. First using my pencil soldering torch till I used all the fuel on hand. Next I used my handy tig torch set at less than 30 amps. I made 20 slow revolutions around the bolt head with the arc. As soon as I cut the heat I went at the bolt with one of those hit-it-with-a-hammer impact thingies a few good wacks. The bolt was nearly cool to the touch! Next I turned up the amps on the tig, pre-heated the whole area with a heat gun first and heated the bolt up real nice with the tig. It was beginning to glow red slightly. Wacked heck out of it again but no go. I'm giving up for today but would like to have some good advice for tomorrow morning. I will be heating and wacking again at 0 dark 30. Thanks in advance. Dan | ||
| Hughlysses |
Wow. I was able to break mine with a 1/2" breaker bar and no heat. Sounds like somebody went nuts with the red Locktite. I'm thinking the impact driver may not be the tool for this. Even with heat, the thread locker may remain "sticky" so that the impact doesn't really work. Maybe try heat and a breaker bar? | ||
| Uly_man |
Yes that does not sound right. If you over heat the bolt, like glowing red, there is a good chance you will shear the head off. That HD locking stuff is crap and you can still shear a head off anyway if you go at the bolt very hard. I know I did on a sub frame bolt. If it was me I would do it cold with the impact driver to start with. A big hammer is needed of about 4 pounds and a HARD hit with it as well. Twist the impact driver anti-clock wise while you are doing it and you should feel it move. Once it moves you should be able to un-screw the bolt. Do this VERY, VERY slowly or the locking past will heat up with the friction and then go hard and lock the bolt in place again. If that does not work try heating up the hub only, not the bolt, with a powerful heat gun first. (Message edited by uly_man on December 26, 2013) | ||
| Panhead_dan |
Thanks folks! I got it after all. A friend with a really, really good pneumatic impact gun is a friend indeed. This gun will snap 1/2" bolts with a generous trigger pull so I was careful. Didn't even use heat this time. I just gave them a few quick squeezes of the trigger and out they came. The new bolts have that same locking stuff on them so I hope to never do this again. Honestly, I don't see how the female threads can take it! | ||
| Uly_man |
Cool. Well done. This was handy for me to know as I will be replacing the rear pulley, at some point as the paint is coming off, with the new one I have. | ||
| Panhead_dan |
Thanks. New wheel, both tires, handlebars and drive belt today. Tomorrow will be new horn, straighten my bent light bar, clean grounding for left aux light, replace burnt high beam and finish cleaning the garage. I'm thinking a well deserved ale by quitting time! Small road test this weekend. | ||
| Motorfish |
I have heard of people tacking nuts onto the head of the pulley bolts to get a wrench on them. I would think that would be done only if the bolts were real messed up and the torks bits stripped out the bolt head. Just throwing this out there. Glad you got it. | ||
| Luftkoph |
Like uly man said heat the hub not the bolt,and use an air impact,just don't pull the trigger all the way on the impact,kind of rattle it off | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I smacked mine with a hammer and a brass drift. They came loose normally after that. | ||
| Mark_weiss |
Yes, heat the hub, not the bolt. Aluminum expands more, and more rapidly, than steel. Heating the hub will imperceptibly enlarge the screw holes more than the screw itself will expand. This helps to break the hold of corrosion as well as softening any locking compound that was used. Around 230F is good for most castings. | ||
| Teeps |
I used my 1/2 drive pneumatic impact gun to remove the pulley bolts. Cleaned the threads, then reinstalled the bolts and torqued to spec, using blue loctite. One of the few fasteners I use loctite on, I might add... Of course your experience or mileage may vary... | ||
| Panhead_dan |
All done! Well, I didn't clean the garage but all the work to the Buell is done. New horn installed, lightbar fixed, aux lights back to their blinding selves and a new high beam bulb installed. I even went ahead and added fluid to the rear preload adjuster. It now works better than it ever did. This bike deserved some love. She has been very good to me. I am unable to go get my ale reward due to freezing fog that has built up for the last couple of days. Ya can't even walk on that stuff. Luckily, we have a nip o vodka around here for just such an occasion. I hope the weather clears up for some road testing this weekend. Cheers! | ||
| Panhead_dan |
By the way, for anyone that wants to restore their rear preload adjuster I have some advice. | ||
| Arry |
Panhead, new handlebars? Did you get stock bars or did you find an aftermarket replacement? Mine are lightly tweaked and I haven't decided on a replacement. I like the stock bend. | ||
| Panhead_dan |
I bought some used but straight stock uly handlebars from a member here. Every time I bend a set of bars on my bike (pretty much any bike I've ever had) I want to just bend them back. I can't help the urge to do this. It's the tightwad in me. The problem is that after a successful re alignment they break the next time they are stressed. Stressed as in another bending incident. Over the years I've come to the point that I just replace them if possible. | ||
| Teeps |
Panhead_dan Posted on Friday, December 27, 2013 By the way, for anyone that wants to restore their rear preload adjuster I have some advice. What is that? | ||
| Panhead_dan |
Lay the bike on it's right side to do the job. I already had a moving blanket on the floor and the bags on. It was easy to put down and pick up. This position allows for keeping the open line higher than the rest of the system so no loss of fluid. Also, put a large rag like a kitchen towel or a t shirt under the work area. It may help avoiding the hour I shot when I dropped one of the crush washers and had to tear the bike apart to find. The rest is documented elsewhere on this site. It's only a 15 minute job that pays big. My preload adjuster now gets tension on the first full turn! It was down to 12.5 or so. | ||
| Motorbike |
Panhead_dan, that sounds like some really good advice. Thanks for that! What type of fluid did you add to the adjuster? Did you just top it off or empty, clean and start over? Thanks. | ||
| Panhead_dan |
I spent hours going over old posts trying to find out what type of fluid to use. I found no definite answer. I just topped it off with fork oil figuring that fork oil seems safe for o rings and such. Now that I have done it I know that the fluid that came in it from the factory is more likely hydrolic jack oil. I have no way of knowing for sure but it is just a simple hydrolic system with clear fluid. Mine is now full of more pink(ish) fluid.  |
