| Author | Message | ||
     Medi |
Hi, as my luck would have it, out of last 3 VR sold today, I came in fourth. Anybody know where I can buy one, besides americansportsbike? Thanks, Alex | ||
| Teeps |
http://www.roadstercycle.com/ | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I would suggest just getting in line at American Sport Bike. They set me up recently with a regulator that was backordered. | ||
| Kag |
http://roadstercycle.com/ Call Jack the owner and he will square you away, fast shipping also | ||
| Medi |
Thanks Teeps and Kag for the alternative recommendation. Does the VR come with instructions? I'm somewhat mechanically challenged especially since I don't have a garage. Natexlh, I was told they are going to ship it to me as soon as they get it, which they told me would be November 25th, plus slow trip across the states, I won't get it until December... can't wait that long. | ||
| Kag |
When I thought I had a VR going out and I was getting ready for a 1k mile trip I bought the VR Mosfet type from Jack Flemmings site. The one I bought he includes most everything to splice into the wiring. I care the Vr in my possibilities bag on the bike with my other stuff (belt, fuses, headlight, etc...). he sells an adapter plate. Of course the one he sends is the 2 wire one.  | ||
| Xbimmer |
he sells an adapter plate... http://www.roadstercycle.com/Shindengen%20FH020AA% 20mounting%20bracket.htm This might work well with a couple standoffs from the original VR mount for clearance, and a lot easier than my adapter project. He's also upgraded his kits and given the choice of fuse or circuit breaker protection, however the supplied 30A units won't be enough for our 3-phase systems IIRC. The Shindengen is a great alternative to stock I'm still very happy with my conversion at about 2 years without issue. If I want anything else factory I'll go with American Sport Bike before I'd even approach the parking lot of a HD dealer. | ||
| Dean |
I have an early style VR from parts I've accumulated. Can it be modified to work with my 08 xb12x? I blowing headlamp bulbs & see them go really bright sometimes. I suspect VR. Buell has about 15k miles on her. dean@learntoride.org 615 545 1111 texts ok | ||
| Ratbuell |
+100 on the Shindengen, and roadstercycle. Put mine on ('06 Uly) earlier this season, love it. There's a writeup on my install here somewhere on badweb... I highly doubt a 3 phase VR can be used on a single-phase system. | ||
| Uly_man |
 I would not use crimps, like these, on a Stator/ VR output but if you must use a good crimper and heat shrink over the top about twice the length of the crimp. This will help keep water/moister out of the crimp and stop any mechanical stress at the point the wire is crimped to the fitting. I have found these things a pain in the ass on bikes due to the nature of bikes IE Vibration, water, etc. I prefer soldering and a double layer of heat shrink. Ok it takes longer but it is a Pro job that will last for many years. You deffo do not want to use them on FI, HID and LED systems as bad resistance in joints will cause all sorts of problems. And it is a good idea to you those new type of plugs as they are water proof/ resistant. They are cheap enough these days anyway. | ||
| Claybobber |
My winter project was to make a mounting bracket for the shindengen VR, it is currently fixed in place with wire ties. (still there after 5K miles) Anyone out there used jack's adapter plate? My guess too, is that jack's adapter will require a standoff bracket as suggested by Xbimmer. Ulyman i agree, crimping w/o soldering is not good. Jack has a series of video tutorials on his website that I found helpful. | ||
| Ratbuell |
I can't find the thread, but my install thread has photos and description of the mounting plate I made/used. Admin? Help with the search maybe? | ||
| Ratbuell |
Found it. Search works better when you spell "shindengan" correctly lol... http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/712127.html | ||
| Portero72 |
I did an upgrade with the Shindengen VR and Jack's stator on my 09. It was time-consuming, but not difficult. Works great, as well. | ||
| Claybobber |
Ratbuell, Nice documentation, and good suggestion. Also, i too used the plain butt connectors, with independent heat shrink tube and took out the 77 plug. My leads to the battery went straight back. No problems so far, so at this time I'm happy with the conversion, BTW your adventure bike looks like one should! | ||
| Uly_man |
As far as an electrical repair goes, on a bike, it is a VERY good idea to do it right the first time around. Ok so a basic/ normal repair will work but, over time, just the moister in the air will get into the fixings and start to corrode them let alone all the other things that will effect the wiring as well. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Another reason I went with the Shindengan is because it should be a readily-available, more-or-less, component in the future. Now that I've updated my wiring, *if* I need to replace it down the road, it should be plug and play. The hard part is done  The only issue I have now is, I must have pinched or otherwise upset my VSS wiring when I was inside the front pulley cover - every now and then, my speedo drops to 0 for no reason  Maybe while I'm getting hammered with snow, I'll rack up the bike and chase that, and my oil cooler leak (my left boot is staying nicely moisturized and polished!). | ||
| Raceautobody |
The crimp connectors pictured are perma seal connectors. These are the only splices we use in our shop and have never had an issue. After heating them they seal better than regular heat shrink and the connection is not brittle from the soldering. Try them. http://www.molex.com/molex/products/family?channel =products&chanName=family&key=heat_sealable_termin als | ||
| Teeps |
Raceautobody Posted on Tuesday, December 10, 2013 The crimp connectors pictured are perma seal connectors. These are the only splices we use in our shop and have never had an issue. After heating them they seal better than regular heat shrink and the connection is not brittle from the soldering. Try them. Good point! |
