| Author | Message | ||
     Dmcutter |
My poor bike is only getting out about once a week and the last couple of times I've started it it really labored to turn over and reset the clock to 1:00 and reset the trip odometers. I think a battery tender is in order. In addition to the power outlet in the dash I also have a Powerlet outlet, and there is a two prong pigtail attached to the battery, also Powerlet, I believe. The two prong does not match up with the generic two prong plug on my charger, though. I have found a variety of smart chargers including a Hella for Beemers that I gather plugs into a Powerlet or standard 12 volt outlet. Anyone have experience with these? Can I just plug one into my Powerlet or 12 v outlet and leave it for a week at a time without frying anything? | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
The 12V accessory outlet is switched on by the computer so that won't get you anywhere. Your best bet is the direct connection to the battery. I think you just need to change your battery. It shouldn't die after a week or two of not being touched. | ||
| Griffmeister |
Don't be so quick to blame the battery. By all means be sure any type of charger is directly connected to the battery. Also make sure all connections are clean and tight. With all the vibration it's very easy for the battery connections to loosen ever so slightly and cause problems. The more terminals you have connected the worse this can become. I have combined two power leads I was using into one crimp connector to reduce the stacking problem. Seems to keep things tight a little longer. | ||
| Zac4mac |
You can get a Deltran "Tender Lead" from a lot of places - Dennis Kirk to Harley. Install on your battery leads with a 7.5A fuse inline. Connect a tender for a day every week or 2. Beats using the alligator clips for tendering. I've been cycling a tender on all the bikes in the shop lately. Dan's S-2 took 2 days to go green. Zack | ||
| Argentcorvid |
"Battery Tender" connectors (like this one) are actually a standard item and should be available at any auto parts store. They are in the same series of connectors as the flat ones used for trailers. you can even plug the battery tender one into the trailer one. | ||
| Teeps |
My '06 Ulysses is on a Battery Tender Jr. except when I'm riding it. The battery in the bike now, has been in service over 7 years. I second clean and tight connections at the battery. | ||
| Hdxbones |
I've never had to replace a battery that I've kept on a tender. A lead can be purchased at any Harley dealer. | ||
| Ratbuell |
I also rotate a battery tender jr through my bikes, especially when the "off season" hits. My 06 has the factory battery in it, still starts as strong as ever. | ||
| Brighton |
I too keep my Ulysses permanently connected to a Battery Tender Jr. when it's in the garage. My Uly came from the dealer with a ring connection cable already connected to the battery. I also do the same for a car that doesn't get driven much. | ||
| Motorfish |
I have an original `06 battery also. It`s on a Battery Tender, or Jr. whenever its sitting for a long time. Starts fine. | ||
| Dmcutter |
According to the gent I bought the bike from, the installed lead is in fact Battery Tender brand so it looks like I'll head to Wally World tomorrow and pick up a Jr. Seems to be the tender of choice. | ||
| Motorfish |
The Battery Tenders use an SAE type plug. Real easy to find. I run my heated vest off it also. | ||
| Zane |
I don't have a battery tender for my 09 XT. Just replaced the second battery about 3 months ago. How much does a tender cost? | ||
| Dmcutter |
I saw them on line at Wal Mart for $23, give or take. Cheaper than a battery... | ||
| Arcticktm |
Anywhere from $20-$75 depending on what you want it to do. Most basic of models, like the Walmart (likely Schumacher brand) ones are just trickle charges that shut off at a certain voltage and go into a maintenance mode after that. fancier ones, like an Optimate 4 are fully automatic, usually add a de-sulphation mode to try and save a deteriorated battery, and have multiple charge and maintenance modes depending on what it senses from the battery. The Optimate also claims to be able to "wake up" a CAN bus system like BMW and some Ducati's use. Not of much concern to Buell folks. The higher end units also usually go down to a lower amperage, which I needed for my son's TTR50 battery (0.8 amp I believe). The basic Walmart chargers usually only go down to 1.5 amp (some may go down to 1 amp?). I finally broke down and bought a battery lead for all 3 bikes so I can cycle them through the Optimate without having to remove any seats or access the battery. I made an adapter from a SAE trailer plug and a Powerlet plug to use on the BMW's accessory outlet (which is live always, unlike the Buell outlets). For the Buell I just went direct to battery and the cable sticks out under the seat where the diagnostic connector is. The ones I used cost more than double the $6 O'Reilly part linked above because the have an in line fuse built in, and they are the Optimate branded cable. Worth it for the convenience and extra protection. | ||
| Zane |
I need to get one and cycle it between the two bikes. I have my son's Suzuki GS500F in the garage. It almost never gets ridden and my 09 XT. It's getting cooler here in Mid Michigan and I'm about done for the season. Seems like getting a mid range level that can take care of either bike is the way to go. Last battery for the XT was right at $100. Editted bekause I can't spel or tpye (Message edited by Zane on November 04, 2013) | ||
| Dmcutter |
I did in fact pick up a Schumacher for $20 at WalMart. It has the standard SAE quick connect. The lead that is wired up on my battery appears to have an in line fuse, so props to the previous owner for taking the high road. | ||
| Dmcutter |
I guess the new battery is in order. I had it on the trickle charger all week, then took it out for a short hop to the store the other night. It started fine, but when I got back and plugged the charger in again, it showed a yellow "charging" light-I would have thought it would show a green "charged" after being run. It didn't take long to go back to green, though, so I thought maybe it was just due to it being a very short ride. Today I unplugged the charger and started it up and it hesitated then reset the clock to 1:00 again when it started, even though it was showing a green light when I unplugged it. No issues during the ride when I stopped for gas or at the grocery store, thankfully. Is this symptomatic of a charging system issue or just a battery past its prime? | ||
| Griffmeister |
You said the key word, "short" hop. Remember, it takes a decent amount of power to crank the engine no matter how short. Once you are running, the electrical system must power the engine, lights, gauges etc sometimes leaving little to charge the battery. With all these demands you should expect a brief period of charging when you put the tender back on. A long period of charging would be another issue. You must have the new fan logic (no fan after shutdown). I still have the old logic so the fan runs on a little which also takes some charge out of the battery. Oh well. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Half hour rule. If you start a Buell...ride it for at least a half hour to put the charge back in the battery. They do NOT charge at idle. | ||
| Arry |
"I had it on the trickle charger all week, ..." You are probably talking about a maintainer, battery tender, smart charger... , but a standard "trickle charger" would over charge and probably damage your battery, if left on for a week. | ||
| Teeps |
Dmcutter Posted on Sunday, November 10, 2013 I guess the new battery is in order. I had it on the trickle charger all week, then took it out for a short hop to the store the other night. It started fine, but when I got back and plugged the charger in again, it showed a yellow "charging" light- Mine does that too, for the last 7 years. Even after a 40 minute run on the freeway, above 60MPH. Doesn't necessarily mean the battery is "bad." | ||
| Teeps |
Dmcutter Posted on Sunday, November 10, 2013 I guess the new battery is in order. I had it on the trickle charger all week, then took it out for a short hop to the store the other night. It started fine, but when I got back and plugged the charger in again, it showed a yellow "charging" light- Mine does that too, for the last 7 years. Even after a 40 minute run on the freeway, above 60MPH. Doesn't necessarily mean the battery is "bad." | ||
| Dmcutter |
But the part that bothers me is that, immediately after unplugging it from the charger, it struggled enough starting the bike to reset the clock and trip odometers. I will accept the charging light thing as normal, but not resetting everything. | ||
| Teeps |
If the clock and trip are resetting, then if not a poor ground or other connection. Then the battery is in need of replacement. | ||
| Dmcutter |
This issue just cropped up, so it could be that a connection has shaken itself loose, or it's the battery. Reckon I will start looking for loose connections first. | ||
| Griffmeister |
Put a multimeter "right on" the battery posts and crank it over. If the true battery voltage drops way down then I guess that's it. If not, then it's losing it elsewhere. | ||
| Teeps |
Good point Griff. The battery voltage should not drop below 10v during that test. Any lower the clock and trip odo reset. |
