| Author | Message | ||
     Electraglider_1997 |
I'm wondering if disconnecting the bottom of the shock so that the wheel drops further would make it easier to install a new drive belt. | ||
| Pontlee77 |
not really actually i think it will make it harder, easier is to unscrew the axle of the wheel until the wheel is loose ( no need to take it off) and work from there. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
When the shock is disconnected at the bottom the wheel might be able to be lifted a bit further then with the belt lifting off the idler. The only hard part of putting a new belt on was getting the idler pulley back into place onto it's bracket's studs. Sure would be nice coming up with a trick to getting it on without any hassle. Without resorting to hogging out an idler bracket hole like some have done. | ||
| Jessemc |
I put on a late version brand new belt shortly after I got the Uly in 2009. I loosened up the axle fully, left the idler pulley as it was and just turned the belt onto the pulley by rotating the wheel - just like I used to wind the chain onto the back sprocket of my bicycle when I was a kid. I changed the back tire yesterday and the belt still looks perfect at 25K so it doesn't seem to have hurt it any. Foolish words I know - I just jinxed myself! | ||
| Skifastbadly |
I have had no serious problems replacing the belt without removing the idler pulley. In fact the first time I did it, I DID remove the idler pulley and it made it loads more difficult. Loosen the axle 15 turns. Take off the frame piece. (This is easier if your remove the bolts from the footrest bracket.) Remove the plastic covers. Get the belt over the front sprocket. Ok, now it's tight...but you can get the belt about 2/3 of the way onto the rear sprocket, and then just roll the bike backwards, and it'll go on. I've done this four times now. (Message edited by skifastbadly on September 16, 2013) | ||
| Froggy |
Yes, just loosen the rear axle till it is nearly out. I've done 3 belt changes (two new, one used) this summer without touching the idler even once. Remove belt guards, loosen axle nearly all the way, remove swingarm brace, detach right side footpeg bracket, insert belt, reassemble. Honestly the hardest part was getting the swingarm brace on/off due to tight clearance with the footpeg mount, I didn't feel like removing the side case bracket to allow more clearance for my tools. | ||
| Motorfish |
Is the axle tightening procedure the same for the 2010 wheel, as earlier years? | ||
| Froggy |
100% the same | ||
| Motorfish |
Thanks Froggy. That's how I did it. I followed the SM and took off the idler pulley, but I don't think I really had to. | ||
| Sagehawk |
Idler bracket changes were drill front hole with 13/32 drill. Size now was at .408. Original was 10 mm I believe. Line up to rear hole. Move mill table to me .030. Used 10 mm (.400) endmill and plunged thru. Thought was put into this as so little movement makes such big changes in belt drive systems. If you feel this is too loose. Loosen, jack it up a bit and retry. Anyhow, so much easier to work with rear end and not fight belt tension. Time will tell on belt, bearing life. | ||
| Griffmeister |
Froggy, you should know, the hardest part is getting the belt and the bike in the same location.  |
