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Electraglider_1997
| | Posted on Sunday, September 01, 2013 - 03:40 pm: | 
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I assume the red loctite is pretty powerful stuff. If the bolt shears off then getting it out is probably even harder with red loctite. I used Permatex never-seize and a lock washer. We shall see if that was a mistake or not. I'll just keep an eye on it.
Danair,
Maybe room for a heli coil if you stay with 5/16th bolt. I went to a 7/16th grade 8 bolt and doubt that putting a heli coil would leave enough aluminum on the front and back sides of the aluminum chunks provided. Given that Buell went to 3 bolts, I'd say that 5/16ths is just not up to the task helicoil or not. It's the bolt head that is shearing off, it isn't just loosening and falling out. At least with mine. |
Teeps
| | Posted on Sunday, September 01, 2013 - 04:17 pm: |
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Panhead_dan Posted on Sunday, September 01, 2013
By the way, do not use red lok tite.
I only use loctite (blue) on the rear sprocket and rotor mounting bolts.
Everything else threaded into aluminum or steel gets Permatex Anti Seize PN 80078 and tightened with a torque wrench. A recently calibrated torque wrench I might add... |
Electraglider_1997
| | Posted on Sunday, September 01, 2013 - 06:13 pm: |
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I rode to the gym today and lo and behold there was that sheared off sidestand bolt head with about 1/8" of the threads. It did shear off level with the engine. I took it home and it is magnetic. I'd of checked the other bolt that hadn't sheared but that baby disappeared after I removed it. Those 5/16ths bolts are pretty wimpy in comparison to the 7/16 I went to. Should of done it to both bolts. |
Danair
| | Posted on Monday, September 02, 2013 - 12:15 pm: |
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Anyone ever tried "relieving" the muffler under the bolts so it doesn't have to be removed to replace bolts? I have a wrench (borrowable) that works perfectly with everything in place, hate to burn a front strap over it. I ran em out as far as I could, degreased, and used wicking loctite but sure would like to replace....and they'll be safety wired. |
Electraglider_1997
| | Posted on Monday, September 02, 2013 - 02:57 pm: |
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In keeping with my thing about reusing parts, I reused all three straps. For one reason or other, Buell always calls out in the service manual to not re-use parts. Don't go along with that philosophy unless the part looks like it REALLY needs replacing. It even said to replace the torco clamp that seals and holds the headers to the muffler. WHY? I just lathered the threads with Permatex never seize and called it good. |
Danair
| | Posted on Monday, September 02, 2013 - 06:14 pm: |
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The smartest guy I know on Buells said if you disregard those recommendations, this is the ONE you don't want to do. And I have reused other fasteners. I just NDT them with my other parts. In the "no more ground problem" thread. There is a link to Aircraft Spruce. Every aviation grade bolt, nut, fastener, etc is there and very reasonable. I use the ones drilled for safety wire whenever possible. Get the catalog, the website sux. All welcome to pm me about anything like that |
Desert_bird
| | Posted on Monday, September 02, 2013 - 06:30 pm: |
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I too respect the recommendations to change the strap and think it's probably wise - but i never have in over 4 years of wrenching the muffler off and on and several rounds of tightening the sidestand bolts. Think EG's approach is totally legit. I am very gentle when re-tightening the straps back down. Knocking wood. |
Panhead_dan
| | Posted on Monday, September 02, 2013 - 07:04 pm: |
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Panhead_dan
Posted on Sunday, September 01, 2013 - 10:49 am:
Teeps
Posted on Friday, August 30, 2013 - 12:24 pm:
Clamping force is king!
Good fit and clamping force are King!
Fit on mine was the reason it kept coming loose. The bolts just hold the two parts together. When they don't fit together well, the bolts will work loose. All it took was a little elbow grease and a file. That and a close look at the actual contact (fit) between the case and sidestand mount.
By the way, do not use red lok tite.
My point to this was that the problem that causes the sidestand to come loose is that it's shape and the shape of the engine case do not match good enough. A little work with a file and they will match and will not loosen up again.
This is the key. |
Danair
| | Posted on Monday, September 02, 2013 - 07:36 pm: |
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I'll mull it over. He did say that if you were very careful to get the edge breaks exactly where they were you stand a much better chance as that's where they break when re-used. I do have a new one I've been saving. I have re-used the rears on one the other Uly's.
re: the Aircraft Spruce thing and PMing me, there are a couple of gotcha's. Nothing major, but for instance there are differences in flare angles between AN fittings and SAE fittings....for folks that do the braided aircraft hose thing. Also aircraft countersunk fasteners of any type have different angles as well. |
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