| Author | Message | ||
     Stecz |
I have an eye on an '08 and a '10... 08 - 16k miles, no scratches, seems to be great shape 10 - >10k miles, looks like it fell over once (minor scratches on handguard, saddle bag, trunk Price difference is around $2500 bucks... Are the '10 upgrades worth it? (wheel bearings, second oxygen sensor, etc). Any words of wisdom? Thanks | ||
| Froggy |
As long as it is an 08 or newer it will be a good bike. The 2010 wheel is the only real advantage over the 2008, and that wheel can be retrofitted for about $500 (wheel + parts, plus labor to install bearings, swap sprocket/rotor) to the 08 if you desired it. I'm curious how they got scratches on the trunk if it was only a fall over, but anything is possible. Do you have any links or pictures for further evaluation? | ||
| Arry |
$2500 is a pretty big difference, which one is cheaper? Are they both xb12x, or xb12xt? If your planning to ride off pavement much, you'll end up with minor scratches anyway. On the other hand, if it's going to be a pretty street bike the scratches might always bother you. If the scratched one is the cheaper one, you could replace all those parts for less than $2500 and have scratched spares. Lower miles is a good thing. Condition of tires? | ||
| Stecz |
They are both XTs, the higher miles one doesn't have the scratches. I assume the trunk was just dropped or something. The '08 is $2500 cheaper that the '10. Especially knowing how much the upgrading the rear bearings will cost me, the '08 sounds like a better deal. The '08 will probably need a new rear tire soon, but it's fine for now. The '10s tires have more tread. On the '08, I assume I'll have to replace the belt soon and check the rear bearings at that time. (probably do that along with a new rear tire). By the way, I forgot to mention... the '10 comes with a 90 day warranty. | ||
| Froggy |
It is not replacing the bearings, it is the entire wheel assembly. You need the wheel, the "Axle/Bearing/Seal Kit, 2010 XB Rear Wheel", and a set of new bolts for the brake rotor. You will then need to have the bearings pressed into the wheel, but American Sport Bike does offer it for a small charge (recommended), then just get the sprocket and rotor transfered over. http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/17901.html
The belts do not have any scheduled replacement interval and it can 100k miles, but I do recommend putting a new belt on it and keeping the old one as an emergency spare. The new belts are tight and will take more effort to install than a used belt, so it is best to do at home or in a shop when you have a better selection of tools. The belt can be installed on the side of the road, but it is nice to have a used one that drops right in instead of a brand new one that will fight you.
While it is comforting to have a warranty, you probably won't need it. Short of a total engine failure or running the bike without transmission fluid, the bike can usually be repaired without breaking the bank. | ||
| Stecz |
I realize you need a new wheel, but even at $500 for all of that, it's much less than $2500, It sounds like the other changes are not a big deal. I felt the same way about the warranty... | ||
| Cyclonedon |
My only advise to you is don't do what I did, I waited about 9 months before I purchased my July and that is 9 months I'll never get back in my life! My 2006 July is by far the best dam motorcycle I've ever rode or owned!!! | ||
| Argentcorvid |
i got scratches on top of my trunk when I was a little careless after putting it back on the bike. I didn't double-check that it was locked on; the latch was locked, but didn't engage correctly and I went over a (big) bump in the road and heard a big THUNK. so it can happen. | ||
| Reepicheep |
The two big issues with the pre 08 Uly's are probably the wheel bearings and maybe the cranks. I'm not saying those things can't be problems... there are many failed single bearing rear wheels, and more crank failures than there should be. But the pre 08 bikes are still (objectively) very good bikes. While a crank failure on your bike is devastating (hi Hugh!  ), we have been tracking them and have maybe 10 confirmed failures for every pre 2008 Uly combined. And that is with a pretty intense search on both here and ADV rider, when we get a whiff of a possible failure we chase down the person and try and get the failure recorded. 10 failures is way too many, and the 09 and up bikes did redesign the area that seems to be the problem, so it is a real issue. But there are an AWFUL lot of pre 08 XB12 motors running perfectly still, several logging more than 100k miles. So it's not a BMW final drive type deal, where you pretty much know for a fact you need to replace the thing at X miles because it simply can't last longer. It's more of an "inverse lotto" thing, and your odds of loosing are frankly pretty low. Same with the wheel bearings... Lots of documented failures, but lots of us running around with the original wheel and setup (and carefully following the installation torque procedure for the rear wheel) and we don't have bearing problems. Some of us gave the tensioner a little extra margin for tolerance stackup problems (by drilling the mounting holes for it a little bigger), who knows if that gave much beyond peace of mind... though on my Uly it *did* seem to resolve a problem where the rear suspension would feel like it is binding up at extreme travel, which absolutely could be a bearing killing event). So if you don't have to play that lotto, don't play it, and get an 08 or later bike. But if you do end up playing that lotto because you find a fair deal on a bike you like that is pre 08, you probably won't loose. I'd still argue that feature for feature, a well sorted Uly with full luggage is "worth" $10k to me all day long. That is to say if the Uly was still for sale new and was $10k, people looking for that kind of bike would be fools for not buying it. So if you buy a $4k or $5k pre 08 Uly, and the motor blows, then yes it's a major headache. But you then put the other $5k into it (total rebuild of the bike with a new stronger crank setup and the new wheel) and you have a $10k Uly with a brand new motor and pretty much all problems resolved. Not as good as a $5k Uly that didn't break, but as "worst case scenarios" go, it's not so bad. | ||
| Uly_man |
"08 - 16k miles, no scratches, seems to be great shape 10 - >10k miles, looks like it fell over once (minor scratches on handguard, saddle bag, trunk Price difference is around $2500 bucks... Are the '10 upgrades worth it? (wheel bearings, second oxygen sensor, etc)". The 10 bike has a LOT more going on with it even over a 08 bike. The 08 bike needs to be the one with the newer engine timing cover layout and the 10 bike must have the front O2 sensor to confirm the build date/types. Given the bikes year (10 over the 08 bike), miles, up dates on bike and its 90 day warranty (but it MUST BE THE SAME AS THE HD one) the 10 bike is not all that far off the money. Or in the UK anyway. Any REAL 10 XB bike is a rare as "rocking horse" droppings (X OR XT even less) and you are VERY lucky to find one so you will pay a slight premium for one. In this case it is about $700 and in my opinion worth the money. The warranty if the same as HDs one is key as is the second O2 sensor on the bike and makes the world of diff as to how the bike runs. Flash $500 less with cash at them for the 10 bike, or ask for 180 days warranty, and take the bike if they say yes. Which ever bike you buy, and I can not stress how much this on this, you must, must ensure the bike runs right. | ||
| Stecz |
Ok... so I went and drove the '08. (these are all based on riding a '09 KLR 50 miles/day, all weather, every season) My opinion, the chassis, ergonomics felt great, I maybe would want to get some bar backs for it. The issue... The engine shakes a lot at idle, I knew that going in and can deal. I was hoping that it would smooth out at 2k rpm or so, but it didn't, it seemed like it was running rough/missing until maybe 3500 RPM, which doesn't suit my commute that well. When riding at 2500 rpm or so, when I got on the gas, it felt stumbly, flat, until 3500 rpm. When I got on my KLR to ride home, the single felt like a turbine it was so smooth Is what I felt typical? This bike has an aftermarket exhaust (don't know brand, but it was an oval stainless can). It was too loud for me, how hard is it to find a stock exhaust? What are aftermarket options that aren't loud? Could the aftermarket exhaust with the wrong ECM mapping cause it to run the way it felt? | ||
| Arry |
Sounds like that '08 has problems. Try to get a test ride on the '10. The '08 could be sorted out, but it might be a headache to get everything right. Keep on the lookout for other Ulys, those aren't the only two on the market. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Not typical at all. It should be like being shot out of a rubber band from idle on up. Screwing with a perfectly good stock exhaust system absolutely could create the crappy running conditions you described. | ||
| Turf_moor |
Reericheep, your Aug24 post is the best summary of the pros and cons of Uly ownnership I've read. I have the 06 model, but it was first registered in Feb 08. I've only done 19,100 miles as I always have two bikes but, one broken drive belts aside, it has never let me down. It's extremely thoroughly serviced by a bloke in Manchester, England and has had a few mods such as Trojan's belt tensioner, and the Manchester bloke's air box mod and a grease nipple fitted to the output shaft. Buy one is my advice, even if it's an 06 in really good condition. You will not find a better value bike. | ||
| Uly_man |
"a bloke in Manchester, England". Yep I know the ONE. You may wish to know Turf_moor that while some would tell you that a XB bike is something special on the fixing and/or service thing it is in fact not the case. But as the Guy says "You pays your money". I did at £100 for a battery I did not need. | ||
| Mattmcc00 |
My '08 will be up for sale probably next week. I want to make sure its in top shape before I sell it. Changing the front and rear sprockets, new belt, and new tranny seal. I'm also going to take a look at the front and rear bearing to see if they need changing. | ||
| Turf_moor |
Easy service then, Uly? Are you saying he overdoes it? I need to buy a service manual and teach myself to do it all. I used to service my Mini when I was a very young man and that was easy. If you were to recommend a tool kit for this bike what would it be? | ||
| Turf_moor |
Mattmcc00, you're going to do all that before you sell it! Why? | ||
| Buewulf |
"Not typical at all." Not totally true. Some of them can be a little cranky when cold. So maybe it just needed more time to warm up? As suggested, try the '10 bike and see how they compare. Also, "smooth" is a relative term. My Uly gets smooth around the 3500 rpm mark. A VFR rider would disagree. |
