| Author | Message | ||
     Redtail |
Has anyone swapped out crank in an 07? Or rebuilt a 07 and rode on? | ||
| Hughlysses |
Yes, we've got at least one Uly rider here that swapped in an 08 crank after his 07 failed. IIRC, you also have to change the left side crank bearing; other than that, it's a straight-forward swap. Oh yea, important safety tip- the 08 crank doesn't have a timing mark on it, so figure out some way to put a mark in the correct place before you install it. You could probably just install a replacement 07 crank, but the 08 crank is the same price (maybe a few dollars cheaper) and has the larger crankpin and bearings, so it makes sense to use it. There are also at least a couple of outfits that can rebuild your old crank (Darkhorse is one) to make it better than the factory part. The debris from my crank bearing had trashed both my pistons, cylinders, and oil pump, so I was going to have do a really major overhaul on my 07 engine if I went that route. Instead, I installed a complete, used 2009 engine (apparently out of an XB12R); I had to buy a new 2009 Uly wiring harness and use the ECM out of the XB12R. So, it's definitely doable. As an alternative, you might think about just parting out your Uly (also a lot of trouble) and buying a good used 06 or 08-up Uly. | ||
| Dpb |
I've put an '08 flywheel assembly in. That is the answer to the potential problem! I'd do it. | ||
| Redtail |
When you swap out the old crank for a 08 crank what do you have to do to the 07 cases? Will the new crank with new bearings slip in to where it has to sit or do you have mill anything. I guess what I am asking is the new bearings od the same as a 07 bearing od? When you buy a new 07 crank from the dealer does it have the same potential to be a defective one? Thanks. | ||
| Hughlysses |
As I understand it, there was nothing inherently wrong with the older crank design; after all the 2004-2006 XB12's used it without problems. Apparently some of the crankpins used in 2007 were the wrong material or not properly heat-treated or something similar, which is what caused the problem. I would HOPE that all the defective cranks are long gone by now, but who knows since there was never any official acknowledgement of the problem outside of an anonymous Buell engineer who let us know about it. I have the complete info on the swap here somewhere, but I believe you have to change the left side (primary sprocket side) crankcase bearing. That requires the race to be pressed out of the cases and a new race to match the 2008-up bearing pressed in. IIRC, the roller bearing itself just slips onto the end of the crank. The right end bearing comes in 4 (?) different sizes. As I recall, it's a trial-and-error deal. You have to install the bearing and check the fit, if it's not correct, you substitute a larger or smaller bearing as necessary to get the right fit. This operation is required whether you use a new 07 or new 08 crank- each crank has to be matched to the cases. (It's explained in the shop manual.) Darkhorse recommended having the crankcases align-bored and having a new race pressed in on that side as well. The point is that it's only slightly more work to install an 08 crank, which gives you a larger, stronger crankpin, larger roller bearings, and stronger connecting rods for the same money. It's less likely to have a problem than the earlier crank assemblies just because it's a stouter unit so everything's under less stress. | ||
| Hughlysses |
It took a little digging, but I found the thread where Rdkingryder replaced the crank in his 07 Uly with an 08 crank: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/646487.html?1334714989 IIRC, the only problem he had was he didn't realize the 08 crank had no timing mark until after it was installed, so he had to improvise on that. I'd think you could carefully measure the position of the mark (which is a machined slot at the edge of the left flywheel) and mark the new one with a scribe or series of center-punch marks, or maybe just a permanent magic marker. You remove a plug on the left side of the engine cases between the cylinder bases to see this mark in order to set the static ignition timing. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I have an 07 and we have been tracking the crank failures pretty closely. They never really did make much sense. Enough of them that something really did appear to be an issue, but not enough to say all (or even most) are doomed. The jury is still out. My 07, by VIN, is pretty much at ground zero. If there was a bad batch of cranks, its hard to imagine how I didn't get one, unless there were several pallets laying there being used at once. Dead crank bike came off the line shortly before mine and shortly after. If (when?) mine goes? I don't know. Maybe get a 12 motor off a salvage bike, maybe get my current motor rebuilt with the new crank. It would depend on costs and availability. I'm betting the salvage path would work better, as the costs would probably be similar, but I would still have the 07 (broken) motor at the end of the day. Though I would also be really tempted to do a 9 motor retrofit if I came across one with all the necessary pieces at a good price. Or a 9 with an 1150 kit... that is probably the best option. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Bill- how many miles on yours now? | ||
| Reepicheep |
27k I think... No major problems. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Wow- you're right on the cusp as far as mileage if you're gonna have a problem. Have you ever had a Used Oil Analysis (UOA) done? That might give you some clue if you're going to have a problem any time soon. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Yes, I had blackstone do an anylysis, and the silver is there. I think it is 2x or 3x normal. So more "kinda bad" news. That was one analysis pre amsoil. I have another tub bottled up and ready to go that is post amsoil. Probably won't be much different though. | ||
| Redtail |
My 07 has 21,350 miles and Is quiet when started. After riding and well warmed or even hot you can hear the whole valve train. It has done this for at least the last 4,000-5,000 miles. I use SYN 3. I thought about using a thicker oil but I figured light oil moves faster and cools better. Do my own service and never see any metal in oil. Sound has not gotten any worse so far worries me. Anyone else had this? | ||
| Redtail |
Or am I just paranoid? | ||
| Reepicheep |
No worries, they do that. Every time I switch helmets, I would swear the engine has lost a cam chain or ingested a medium sized mammal or something. Then I get used to it again...  I stick with the factory oil spec for warm weather. | ||
| Redtail |
Yep Reepicheep I did switch a helmet open face for a short while and that is when my paranoia started again. It just seemed a little different than the regular coffee grinder noise at idle. It seems the bikes that you hear about the cranks go seem to start banging and go from bad to kaboom quick without any sign of getting bad. I am still scared. I just changed oils and adjusted clutch p/drive chain, also forgot how smooth she was at 3,500rpm. Thanks all and Hughlysses for the info and quick links. Stay safe...Ray. | ||
| Glenn |
This is another good record of the same rebuild posted on ADVRider http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35 4049 | ||
| Reepicheep |
Bad cranks sound like somebody is banging the bottom of the engine with a hammer. So long as it just sounds like a bunch of quarters in a blender, you are still good.  | ||
| Rdkingryder |
Guys, both threads are mine. Known as Vtwin on advrider, so no fears the failures are growing at alarming rates.  I've got near 38K on the new crank and other than the annoying popping out and 5th into a false neutral, been running ok. (Message edited by rdkingryder on July 02, 2013) | ||
| Motorfish |
Check out my post http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/716123.html?1372889528 Hope it helps. I wish you luck. | ||
| Redtail |
Motorfish What did the motor sound like when you advanced and retarded the timing? Was there any sound in the bottom? I don't know when but I may do the same as you with my 07. What did the heads look like when you pulled them and what all did you do to them. Thanks. Ray | ||
| Motorfish |
My mechanic messed with the timing, and I was not there when he did it so I don't really know what it sounded like. I did retard the timing before I had engine trouble, because, like many others, it pinged at around 4K rpm. If the timing is too far advanced it will ping or knock easily. The heads were fine, little carbon buildup, the pistons and cylinders were in good shape. I think he installed new valve stem seals. I did not have the heads ported just cleaned up. He installed fresh rings and honed the cylinders to clean them up. I did buy a whole engine gasket kit from HD. Good luck. | ||
| Munarin |
I had an 07. Got paranoid about all the talk of crank failures (started hearing things) so I ripped it apart and put an 08 crank in. While I was at it I changed it to a 1250 with new pistons and got another set of heads ported (thanks hughlysses) Did a heap of other things at the same time. But in the end had 97 hp at the rear, stronger than ever and still going strong 10000kms on. On inspection of the crank and heads, a little carbon but nothing excessive and the crank was fine. My paranoia but if you have the money go for it. Piece of mind for me was worth it, so if you need any advice, let me know. | ||
| Papas |
Whew. We have 2 07's. A ss and a stt. 10k and 12.5k. Crapolla....... paranoia now. Oilwell. Sounds like 25k and up is when most give er up. Deep breath! Steve | ||
| Rdkingryder |
Don't worry unless you hear a rattle noise. DAMHIK |
