| Author | Message | ||
     Thejosh |
Has anyone tried the EBR 5mm brake rotor? Was thinking of that or the Wave. Front brake is starting to "pulse" a little and was wanting to upgrade. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Heck yeah, best money I ever spent on the Uly. Looking at it side by side with the stock rotor, I don't understand why it is so much different, but it sure is. My 05 XB9SX had zero problems with the stock rotor, even after I deliberately overheated it on a bet. My 07 Uly had a rotor that I could not get to work without terrible pulsing no matter what I did with pads, sandpaper, brake clearner, etc. Putting on the EBR rotor and mounting kit solved it (10k miles and counting since the change). | ||
| Hughlysses |
I installed the older 6 mm kit and have had good results with that. I think at least 50% of the improvement comes from the EBR mounting hardware. | ||
| Etennuly |
I got the earlier 6mm with the original type mounting hardware. It has been as it should have been from new.  Did I mention HD sucked at warranty claims on this problem? Their service guy nearly wrecked it testing in their parking lot because my original was so bad. He got off of the bike claiming it was a normal condition. Stupid f&^%$(*  a@@hat dumb m*&^%$#@)(*& !!!! Now when I ride the bike I forgot that it ever had the pulsing problem. From what I have seen it has become a total non issue with all of the EBR rotors. | ||
| Motorbike |
I installed the EBR 5mm Finned rotor and EBR mounting hardware on my 08 XT over winter. The stock rotor must have been warped badly, drove me crazy. This new one is smooth as silk so far. Thanks.  | ||
| Reepicheep |
Oh, mine is older, so it must have been the 6mm kit, not the 5mm finned kit. | ||
| Red450 |
I sanded my stock 06 rotor and replaced the hardware with the EBR kit. It helped quite a bit but there is still a slight pulsing. Guess I'll get the EBR rotor when I change my brake pads. | ||
| Thejosh |
Awesome, thanks dudes! | ||
| Tootal |
Motorbike, Dude, that bike is just way too clean!!  I've had good luck with the 6mm one too! I won't show a picture of my bike, way too embarrassing after that last one! (Message edited by tootal on June 20, 2013) | ||
| Danair |
And, you can damn near buy 2 EBR's for the price of a stocker. | ||
| Harleywern |
I installed the Braking Wave rotor this spring. Was 30% cheaper than the EBR rotor. I'm pretty happy with the result.  | ||
| Thejosh |
Yeah, the cheapest I could find a wave was $220, the EBR is listed as $180 on the website. Guess I'll give the 5mm EBR a try. Thanks! | ||
| Bluzm2 |
I had an interesting conversation with Al at American Sport Bike last week. I needed new pads F & R, also need a new front rotor as mine is pulsing. Al related an interesting event regarding "pulsing". He had a customer stop by for new pads, he stated the bike was pulsing under braking but no pulsing in the brake lever. Al took the bike for a ride to check. Just for grins he switched the engine off then braked to a stop. No pulsing. What Al suspects is that there is a harmonic type vibration/pulsing with these motors. I decided to try the same thing on my Uly, sure enough the pulsing was much less when I turned off the motor. There was still pulsing but MUCH less so. I still need to replace the rotor, I have an EBR on order but it was an interesting experiment. If Al reads this I'm sure he will chime in. I suspect that Al is right, if you have a slight pulsing on in the front, during deceleration the motor interacts with the pulsing and makes it worse. Probably a combo of isolator resonance, motor RPM, brake pulsing, fork settings and probably star/moon alignment. Interesting regardless.. Brad | ||
| Griffmeister |
Now I feel like there's something wrong. I have the stock pads and rotor and don't feel any pulsing. Just about down to the limit on my second set of pads, too. The only thing I notice now is that I need a little extra effort to stop lately, thinking because the pads are getting low. | ||
| Thejosh |
This is definitely a rotor pulse, It gets better if I deccelerate in Neutral, but when the bike slows there is definitely a pulse, got a new rotor, pads, and EBR mounting hardware on order. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
TheJosh, pretty much what I found too. Griff, it could be your brake fluid. If it gets moisture in it it will require more effort. | ||
| Motorbike |
Bluzm2, I agree 100% with your theory about the engine possibly causing the sensation of a warped front rotor as well. I did the same experiment as Al did and had similar results. The pulsing was still there on mine but much less pronounced. I ended up changing out the rotor, mounts and pads anyway and it seems good now. I might still try it sometime with the engine off just for fun but I'm not sure if that is a good idea to coast that way. (See my earlier post in the thread about running out of gas). Thanks! | ||
| Xr1200xb12 |
I have an 07 and solved (for now) pulsing by lightly sanding the disc and changing pads as recommended here. I live in WV and use the brakes pretty hard with the mountains and crooked roads...When the sanding/pad switch fails to correct I will be interested in EBR VS. Wave. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Update.. I installed new Lyndall pads on the front along with a shiny new EBR 5mm rotor and mounting kit. I also installed pads on the rear (stock cheapies). Man, I should have done this LONG ago. No pulsing what so ever. It's REALLY easy to differentiate engine vibration from brake pulsing when there is NO brake pulsing. I also did a brake fluid swap on both ends. That really made a difference in the lever feel. I went with the Lyndalls because I like the more progressive feel instead of the hard initial bite of more aggressive pads. The pads are still bedding in a bit, they are feeling better each time I ride. Well worth the time and effort. | ||
| Griffmeister |
Good point, Bluzm2. Now that you mention it I think brake fluid is a service item. Have to check the manual for service interval. Thanks. | ||
| Blugorilla |
How does the Galfer rotor compare to the Braking Wave rotor or the EBR finned rotor? | ||
| Uly_man |
I may be wrong but I think Buell used to use a pad that would "coat" the disc for better braking but could cause "pulsing" sometimes. They dropped the idea some time ago and just use a normal type pad now. I have never had a problem with either of my bikes but then again I changed out the pads to EBC or SBS as soon as I got the bikes as I did not like the Buell ones. If you fit a new disc clean it first, in case it has any oil on it, with brake cleaner. I flush the fluid every 5k miles. Easy, cheap and it works well. If you fit new pads clean the caliper with brake cleaner and clean the disc with coarse emery cloth. Again easy, cheap and makes sure you have no deposits from the old pads, even of the same type, as I did after changing out my front EBC pads because the disc picked up material from, do not let them drop below 2mm, the pads rivets. | ||
| Arcticktm |
Griff, Most books will have you change brake fluid every 2 years, regardless of mileage. Some cars/trucks say 3 years. I do it every year because fluid is about $3-$4 a bottle and 1 bottle will more than do the entire bike, plus a couple other bikes at the same time. It's also so easy to do in a few minutes. An inexpensive vacuum bleeder is not a bad investment. Cheap at Harbor Freight with either their own brass unit or a few bucks more for a Mighty Vac unit. Makes it even faster and simpler. If lever travel is your issue, I just had great success using a method I saw here from Al (American Sport Bike). Can't find the post now, but it was taking front caliper off, putting thin wood strip in place of rotor/pads (but slightly thinner), press lever to push pads out slightly farther than normal. Clean the caliper and pistons very well. Remove reservoir cover. Slowly push back all 6 pistons one at a time. Slowly, or you will spray brake fluid all over your handlebars! Still not sure why this works so well, but this brought my front brake lever back to being very firm after my many attempts at normal bleeding (including bleeding at both banjo fittings) had not worked very well. I was about ready to rebuild the master cylinder, the caliper seals, or even consider buying a radial master cylinder assembly. Saved me about $275 over a radial (but not quite as trick, I know)! | ||
| Motorbike |
Arcticktm, I used that same method to get my lever travel back to normal. I actually called Al and followed his recommendations. Works like new now! I'm not sure what I did wrong but the lever travel issue all came about after I changed the brake fluid. I was very careful to not run the reservoir completely dry but I screwed it up anyway. When I got done, the lever would move about 2 inches before it was firm. I tried everything I could think of before calling Al. Thank God for people like him. | ||
| L84dinr |
I recently replaced brake pads, am now using EBC HH, and purchased and installed the EBR brake rotor kit. While the rotor was off i had it bead blasted and checked for warp. Cleaned up good and was straight. No more pulsing, just dirty rotor from crappy pads. After installing the new EBC pads i brought them up to temperature by repeatedly doing stoppies going to work one morning, then let them cool down completely. I was told long ago that is how to Break in EBC HH pads. Alls good now. While i had the wheel off i also replaced the wheel bearings. Just waiting for a good time to replace the brake pads/wheel bearings on the rear tire. | ||
| Reepicheep |
So you bead blasted the EBR rotor? Or did you bead blast the original rotor and put it back on? I have my original rotor still hanging on the garage wall. | ||
| Motorbike |
I read it that way at the first time too but I'm guessing he installed the original rotor using the EBR Rotor Mounting Kit. I too have my original rotor hanging on the shop wall. I could not find anyone in Rochester, MN who would be able to machine it true so again so I just gave up on that idea and replaced it with the EBR Rotor and EBR Mount kit. | ||
| L84dinr |
Sorry for the confusion... I bead blasted my original rotor, and re-installed it with the EBR rotor bolt kit. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Good data point. I'll leave it on the wall for emergency use. It wasn't warped, just "pulsey". | ||
| Uly_man |
For some reason air can become trapped between the banjo and master cylinder and no amount of road use will flush it through. Even a micro bubble ie one you can hardly see will affect the lever travel. It is easy to clear though. I find the front and rear brakes as good, if not better, than any other bike I have had in the past. Just dump the OEM pads, change the fluid and keep the discs clean. | ||
| Evoldiesel |
I'm so torn. The EBR 5mm rotor is $180, while the Wave rotor is $280. It looks so much cooler but is it really worth another $100?? | ||
| Froggy |
For street use it comes down to looks, but at a track pace the Wave rotor does not hold up to the heat and abuse that the EBR rotors do. I love my wave rotors, they look cool but are only a cosmetic upgrade over stock. | ||
| Court |
>>>>but is it really worth another $100?? No. You get nothing and the only group of folks the aesthetics would impress know that. Order the EBR and set your demons or indicision free. . . . . | ||
| Diozark |
Does anyone know how to remove the floating aluminum ( silver ) bracket from the Caliper ? Sending Parts out for powder, would like to add this one part.  |
