| Author | Message | ||
     Free_bird |
My 08 XT had 1900 miles on the clock when I bought it last fall. I did a 5k service then replace the rear tire. At 6000 miles, I added Clearview LED lights the rode a couple of hundred miles. Today, 9 1/2 days and 3800 miles into a 10 day trip the bike wouldn't start after refueling. I was 220 miles from home and 15 miles from a H-D dealership. The bike had performed flawlessly up to this point. The ignition switch turns on the power with strong lights, but the run switch does nothing - No engine light, no fuel pump prime, and no power to the 12V accessories circuit. I could not detect any fuse issues or other obvious loose leads, etc. So, I used my premium roadside assistance, the tow truck arrived fairly quickly and delivered the bike to the nearby H-D. They are no longer Buell certified, so they are holding the bike for me until tomorrow. My wife came to pick me up and I will go back and get the bike tomorrow, then take it to my nearest local dealership that still works on Buells. I am reasonably calm with all of this because there are many things that could have been much worse. However. with my limited mechanical skills, I am rethinking touring on my XT because of the small number of places that will work on them. Even the H-Ds that still do Buells don't stock many parts. I can carry a critical few, but I am feeling gun shy. It wasn't super hot and I only added 3 gallons of gas so the tank wasn't way low. I somehow suspect the Clearview lights because there were connected to the aux circuit, but I wonder why the problem didn't show up sooner. I'll update and post the diagnosis when determined, but it will probably be early next week before they look at it. | ||
| Free_bird |
There is s not a lot of interest in this thread, but I'll update it anyway. The news is not good - the dealer has not yet identified the cause of my problem. I foolishly thought it might the start ignition relay (p/n 31522--00B) or the RH switch gear (N0158.5AA) but apparently that is not the case. He has also checked and tightened all ground connections, etc. The technician suspect a cracked ECU. I use the original stock 2006 tall seat, but the previous owner used the 2008 stock XT seat for the first 1900 miles. Does a cracked ECU make sense for the symptoms I described? Anyone got any other suggestions? (Message edited by free bird on June 03, 2013) | ||
| Bdub_uly |
Hi Richard I'm 250 mi. or so north of you. I've got an old ECM out of my '08 Uly that I replaced with a race ECM. It isn't exactly right as it caused the bike to buck and pitch on take off but at least it does start and run. I'd be willing to mail it to you to try out. It would at least prove or disprove the mechanics "bad ECM" theory. If it starts, then he's right. If no change, then it must be something else. I want it back for a spare as it could get me out of a pinch someday. You cover a small Priority Mail box ($11.60) each way and I'll send it to you. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Richard- could be a cracked ECM. Basically the ECM controls most of the other electrical functions. It would also be worth pulling and re-seating all the relays, but I'd think the tech would have already done all the checks for a bad relay. | ||
| Free_bird |
Bdub uly, thanks for your kind offer. Let me recheck where they are tomorrow, then I may try your ECM. Do you take PayPal? I would cover the fess plus Priority Mail both ways. I need to go back and search the archives for causes of cracked ECMs other than the seat. (Message edited by free bird on June 04, 2013) (Message edited by free bird on June 04, 2013) | ||
| Free_bird |
Interesting, this may be a self inflicted wound. I did nothing to protect or relocate the ECM when I installed the 2006 seat. | ||
| Froggy |
This alone tells me the ECM is not functioning. When you turn the kill switch on, it "boots up" the ECM, which should illuminate the CEL, the fuel pump should whir, and then if voltage is sufficient activate your outlets. While it can be a cracked ECM, it could be a blown fuse, loose battery terminal, broken wire, or somewhere else along the line stopping the ECM from powering up. I also have a stock ECM that you can borrow for troubleshooting if needed. | ||
| Free_bird |
EBR has an ECM that matches my muffler. Is there any difference in build quality, solder flexibility, etc between the OEM ECM and the ones that EBR is now selling? I understand the program & data difference, but I suspect it is the component supplier, etc. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I think that if you get the ECM relocated where it and its connectors aren't getting mashed or rubbed, and be reasonable when connecting and disconnecting the plugs, it will hold up fine forever. So bummer if you cracked an ECM and have to pony up for a new one, but at least the result is (for many years bikes) a *much* better tune. | ||
| Bdub_uly |
Free bird PM sent | ||
| Free_bird |
Issue resolved. Final diagnosis is a failed fuel pump. I was dubious, but the tech installed an ECM from a 2009 Lightning while I was there. I didn't expect the bike to run well, but I hoped it would at least power up, show the check engine light, throw a code, etc. There was no change whatsoever. I am comfortable with the troubleshooting process. Now the decision is to keep or trade. I really like everything about this bike except dealer support, but it is my primary touring bike for two or three trips each year. I am really concerned about parts & repair dealer away from home, and I am a terrible wrench Bdub uly, thanks again for your PM and offer. | ||
| Bdub_uly |
Glad you didn't need it. Just hope the fuel pump fixes things. I'm skeptical that a bad fuel pump would affect the engine light and accessory circuit. Good luck | ||
| Froggy |
Yea I personally highly doubt it is the fuel pump. The fuel pump is not activating, but that is because the ECM is not turning on to activate it. Your ECM might be fine, but like I mentioned before it could easily be a blown fuse or a wire break/bad ground that would cause it to not fire up and do its thing. | ||
| Free_bird |
Well, the ECM is definitely cracked, so it could well be (or become) an intermittent problem anyway. So I was looking at a $325 ECM plus a fuel pump plus the labor charge. Also it was due for a 10k service, the tires were nearing the end of their life, and I still didn't have a spare drive belt. For me, thats too much money to put into a bike with limited and diminishing dealer support, so I sold it. I am sad, because I really enjoyed riding that bike. It was much better than my 06. | ||
| Dmcutter |
What are you replacing it with? I am really intrigued with the new Ducati Hyperstrada because it is physically smaller and lighter than the Uly with similar capabilities plus a liquid cooled engine. Trouble is that it costs twice what I have in the Uly, and of course I love the Uly despite all its quirks. Every time I look at it it just strikes me as cool and I would feel downright disloyal getting rid of it. | ||
| Free_bird |
I actually sold A Ducati 1100 Multistrada before I got this Ulysses, Many similarities, but Ducati plastic fuel tanks have a swelling issue because of the ethanol in our fuel supply that does not exist in Europe. My 2009 bike was ready for the second replacement tank in three years, plus the routine maintenance costs are much higher than the Uly. It was fun to ride and similar to the Uly in capabilities. | ||
| Arcticktm |
Can't blame you for selling it. Buell's are not the best choice to own post-2010 unless you are willing/able to do most diagnosis & wrench work yourself (or have a trusted associate to do it). Honestly, though, I felt that way even when we technically HAD a dealer network. Fortunately, it doesn't take a bunch of fancy tools and special knowledge for these bikes. I likely would have sold my '06 by now if not for BadWeb. Glad I did not. Now, if I could just get my "firm" front brake lever back (still need to try Al's caliper end bleeding suggestion). | ||
| Reepicheep |
Is that the velcro strap around the lever overnight thing? That really works... pull it tight, put the velcro strap to hold it there, and leave it overnight. Then "pop" it off, bang stuff around, and pump the lever a bunch of times the next morning. Repeat for a week or so. Picture it like opening a fresh 2 litre of coke. The bubbles form and bubble to the top and foam out. I think it works because when you compress it, the bubbles get smaller and they can get past obstructions or join up. Then when you release the pressure, they pop back big again and are more likely to work their way back out the master cylinder. This doesn't replace a proper bleed, but it helps dial one in a little better. | ||
| Buellerxt |
I understand and empathize, Free_bird. I hope you pick a reliable replacement. | ||
| Uly_man |
"Now, if I could just get my "firm" front brake lever back". Put the bike on the stand, put it on full left lock so that the master cylinder is at the highest position. Take the cap off and "flick" the lever to dislodge the small bubbles until you get no more. It may take 5-6 times to do this. But before you do any of that make sure the disc and pads are clean. Also flush through the system with new fluid. I find it needs doing about every 5k miles for best results. I have just done this and fitted new EBC HH pads and now have good brakes again. Powerful, progressive, with great feel and they will even lock-up if you try REAL hard. I find the combination of EBC HH pads front and rear will pull the bike up very easy. With engine braking on the 10 bike it is even faster. Also do not let the pads drop below 2mm or you are on the pad mount (a black mark on the disc) material and that will affect the braking. Or thats what I find with the EBC pads. |
