Author |
Message |
Bosgarage57
| Posted on Saturday, April 06, 2013 - 03:02 pm: |
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Soooo it seems that in my time of working on the bike, I've managed to loose all the screws for the chin fairing......Anyone know what size/lenth they are? I need the 2 up front and the 2 (3) on the side. |
Bosgarage57
| Posted on Saturday, April 06, 2013 - 03:05 pm: |
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Also when doing a TPS reset do the engine need to be warm or cold? |
Ratman
| Posted on Saturday, April 06, 2013 - 07:48 pm: |
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Hot on the TPS reset,far as bolts I think their 12/24's. Keep in mind the stockers have shoulders so If you use allens or?? don't try to bottom them out shoulder to hole ya might crack the faring. Snug and some 242 should work. |
Terrible1one3
| Posted on Saturday, April 06, 2013 - 08:53 pm: |
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Factory replacements. http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/17144.html |
Natexlh1000
| Posted on Sunday, April 07, 2013 - 12:42 am: |
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The thread pitch of the bolts is 1/4-20. |
Argentcorvid
| Posted on Sunday, April 07, 2013 - 09:49 am: |
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you can still get the originals from HD. The ones for the airbox too. |
Arcticktm
| Posted on Monday, April 08, 2013 - 12:26 pm: |
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Not sure you need a warm engine for the TPS itself, but definitely operating temp for the idle adjustment. I actually just did mine yesterday. did the TPS cold, then reset the idle to the starting throttle position (degrees), then ran the bike until warm (320F or more) and adjusted the idle to 1050-1150 rpm. Seemed to work fine and ran bike 200 miles of twisties afterward. I honestly cannot recall if I have done all my previous TPS resets warm or cold. I suppose you can't go wrong if you warm it up first. |
Pontlee77
| Posted on Monday, April 08, 2013 - 01:55 pm: |
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warm is always better at around 160C |
Jamba
| Posted on Wednesday, April 10, 2013 - 02:16 am: |
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I have always done TPS reset warm, but now that i think of it, i can't see reason why it can't be done cold. It is position that matters, it just has to be fully closed, when reset... or am i wrong? |
General_ulysses
| Posted on Wednesday, April 10, 2013 - 06:56 am: |
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My '06 factory manual doesn't specifically say to set TPS hot or cold. But it does say to warm up engine to 320 deg F after zeroing sensor (implying it can be done cold). As the final step, idle is then set to 1050-1150 rpm. |
Natexlh1000
| Posted on Wednesday, April 10, 2013 - 08:06 am: |
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The TPS sensor is a variable resistor. As things heat up, the resistance values change. Do you want it to be right when the engine is cold or do you want it to be right when the engine is at operating temperature? |
General_ulysses
| Posted on Wednesday, April 10, 2013 - 08:37 am: |
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Natex I was thinking the same thing. But the sensor is probably specifically designed to have a linear response to temp change within the normal temp operating range. It's also possible the ECU applies a temperature correction factor to the TPS input (based on engine temp sensor). One way to do it is to split the difference and zero it when the engine is warm, say 200 deg F, which is somewhere between 320 and 77 deg F. Another thing to try is to use ECMspy to see what the reported TPS angle range is cold and then repeat for hot. That way you can see directly if there is any meaningful difference between the two. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Wednesday, April 10, 2013 - 10:38 am: |
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Plus its not measuring resistance, its measuring voltage across two series resistors (which is probably actually a single resistor with a wiper). So the fact that the resistance changes by 2% with temperature has no effect on the TPS calibration. The bigger resistor is changing at the same rate as the smaller resistor, so the voltage divider remains the same. So while temperature probably does change things, its probably not enough of a change to actually have any effect. |
Tootal
| Posted on Wednesday, April 10, 2013 - 12:26 pm: |
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Consider the bore of the throttle body grows in diameter when hot which will allow the butterfly to close slightly more. This will give you a true zero when hot. |