| Author | Message | ||
     North_of_55 |
So I have posted a few times in the past about the way my '08 ran. Sputtering, popping and stalling when cold and starting from a stop warmed-up. After a lot of research and troubleshooting I pretty much determined that my problems were stemming from my ECM (connectors visibly cracked). So I managed to get a shiny new EBR ECM. The bike is completely stock. New Iridium plugs late last summer, air filter clean, compression checked out (don't remember the figure but it was at higher end of spec). It's still cold enough here... I have only been out for one half hour ride at about +3C... then it started snowing again. Maybe it'll be happier when it's warmer out!?! The power with the new ECM seems to be greatly improved (it's kinda nice to feel that tire lift when pulling out to pass!). It finally has the power that I was expecting when I first bought it. My question is this: It seems to be idling between 8-900 rpm when warm and it doesn't have that characteristic "ta-tum... ta-tum... " HD lope. The idle is pretty "putt... putt... putt" and seems too low. What should it be? And when I went to leave home after it had been idling for a couple of minutes it popped and hesitated. Once moving it runs great. Any ideas? I've seen several people recommend changing (or cleaning) the IAT sensor. My main concern is that if something's not right it's going to cause damage down the road. Any ideas? | ||
| Uly_man |
If you replace or unplug the ECM you MUST do a TPS reset. The 08 bikes are done on the throttle. The bikes idle set point is 1050 rpm. 800 - 900 rpm is way to low and on the point of the engine stopping. It will also not "pick up" right "on" the gas. | ||
| North_of_55 |
I followed the instructions that came with the ECM... TPS reset, then 10 minute at idle (if I remember correctly - did that in the garage during the winter). I'll try resetting the TPS again next ride. I've seen lots of discussion... but does it matter if the '08 type TPS reset is done hot or cold? By the looks of the forecast the next ride won't be until mid next week! | ||
| Froggy |
The ECM is self adjusting when it comes to the idle, that's why they have you do a 10 minute idle. The EBR Race ECM raises the idle to be higher than stock during warm up, you should never see 800 rpm if all is correct. Since you have some downtime, search on here for instructions on cleaning the IAC system, as that controls the idle, not the IAT. | ||
| Uly_man |
Yes thats right. Many things with a "all in one" fueling and timing ECU can confuse the issue as will things like the IAC because of its mechanical parts. Proving one part at a time in the system is key to sorting out the problems. | ||
| North_of_55 |
It does idle a little higher during warm-up. I'll look into cleaning the IAC. I have a distinct feeling that the previous owner sold this bike because he couldn't figure out why it never ran quite right! That would also explain why the dealership wouldn't allow test ride! | ||
| Etennuly |
You mentioned changing the plugs last summer. Was that when the ECM was acting up? That can kill even new plugs. Start with the simplest thing. Pull the plugs out and check them. If they are black and or show signs of wet fouling put in a new set. Fouled plugs will do what you have described. Low idle, runs rough cold, will pop and back fire. These bikes will kill plugs on cold starting if not done right. In spite of the '08's "plug cleaning" ability, it is a temporary partial fix. | ||
| Uly_man |
The idle is higher than stock from cold over the early bike but should drop to normal once warm. The ECM uses the AFV to control fuel via the O2 sensor and on a "new" ECM will need a run to learn its new world. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Always do a tps reset hot. | ||
| North_of_55 |
Okay... I've read Sharkguy's post on IAC cleaning. Doesn't get much easier than that! If it's not snowing I'll do that tonight so that it's ready for my next ride. The bike has run poorly off and on since I bought it last May. I do have an extra set or Iridiums... but replacing them last time did not make the bike run any better. These plugs have less than 1000 km on them | ||
| Uly_man |
"I have a distinct feeling that the previous owner sold this bike because he couldn't figure out why it never ran quite right!" Now we are talking MY thoughts on these bikes. In the six years of me looking at XBs in the UK very few have done even 4k miles so not even run in yet. Lots of owners and look "brand spanking" new. Now thats not normal for a bike. Even a low mile 5 year old bike will have done 10k miles. So you have to ask the question? My opinion is that they just said "its the bike" and not looked at why it had a problem and if it was like the bike I tried at a HD dealer I could see why. | ||
| North_of_55 |
I really like the bike... so I'm committed to figuring out what (if anything) is wrong with it. I am the second owner. It was 4 seasons old when I bought it and had just over 8,000km on it. Absolutely spotless condition. Even running like crap it brought out more and bigger grins than my DL-650 ever did! I just sold a DR-350 SE. When I bought it I discovered that I was the 9th owner in 12 years... It ran like crap! I threw in a dynojet kit and really enjoyed the bike for 6 years! I only sold it to help pay for the Uly! | ||
| Uly_man |
"I really like the bike... so I'm committed to figuring out what (if anything) is wrong with it." You sound like me. So, if you want, we will fix the problems. Trust me though, engineer to engineer, its not going to be a big deal. | ||
| Etennuly |
For now I am just suggesting checking the plugs - it's a free thing to do. It was common for these bikes to have the plugs fouled in the show rooms just from starting them for customers to hear. Sad thing is they sold a lot of them with the plugs fouled without checking them. The new owner would come back the next day with a poor running problem that the service departments had a hard time diagnosing. It did not initiate a code. If I do four winter cold starts in a row, say to start and move the bike out of the shop, or back in, without riding it to full warm up, it will usually foul the plugs. And in winter full warm up is at least ten miles of riding. Once plugs are wet they are junk. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Which brings us to the old rule of thumb - if you aren't going to ride it for at least 30 minutes...don't even start the engine. Not only do you foul plugs, but you accumulate moisture in the oils through condensation. Better to just let them sit until you can RIDE. | ||
| Uly_man |
ET is right. Start from the basics, prove these, and work to the next ones. Fault finding should be done ONLY via logic. Anything else is going to be a problem or just luck. Yes I know some here think I am "just a mouth" but I do this sort of thing for a living and on systems that would make many want to run for mother. | ||
| Uly_man |
I use  Just to go buy beer with. | ||
| Luftkoph |
Is that to pick up beer, or mid-ride refueling of beer |
