| Author | Message | ||
     Arcticktm |
There seemed to be a lot of questions on this last year, and most information said that the EBR ECM did not have muffler valve control activated. I have had an EBR ECM on my '06 Uly for almost 2 years with no troubles. Stock engine and exhaust, but I added a K&N air filter last year and already had an '07 airbox cover. Noticed during big winter maintenance that the valve did not operate when doing the WOT/key on check, but it did operate with my old stock ECM (so solenoid still works). No big deal, since I figured that was a diagnostic check and I knew that was disabled on the EBR unit. However, most input on this forum was that valve control itself was disabled on the EBR ECM. I rode a bit with cover off and never saw the cable move at all with EBR ECM. I was then thinking about wiring the valve open after studying the muffler internals. So, I sent EBR and email asking about this. Reply came in 1 day (nice) and I thought it worth sharing if it clears up any confusion. I now plan to just leave it alone. This may also explain why those that wired open their valve (thinking EBR ECM did not control it) have sometimes reported some performance loss under certain conditions. I also liked the safety warning in the last sentence! From EBR today: "The EBR race ECM will work the valve if on the bike, and will also work without the valve. To do this dual function the diagnostics process is disabled so the light won't go on if you remove the valve for racing. Therefore the static diagnostics test operation does not work. Since it only operates at specific times during riding, you may not have seen it working with the cover off. It also operates at different times than does the stock ECM since the calibration is different. So if it is running well, most likely it is operating the valve. We strongly recommend against riding with cover off and watching the valve, as this is high risk to you. Thank you, Tech Support Erik Buell Racing" | ||
| Uly_man |
The EBR ECM is just a stock HD ECM with a few changes. You can, as with any Uly ECM, turn off the AMC. You should not run a OEM can with the AMC off. It is ONLY for cans without the AMC valve. You can have the AMC "on or off" as you like using ECM-SPY/TunerPro or from EBR as you requested it. If you run one of these you will see the list for the switch of the AMC. What EBR said is right just not said very well. (Message edited by Uly_man on March 20, 2013) | ||
| Tootal |
Don't mess with the the race ecm with ecm spy. The elves will find you and spank you! I got a stern warning from them about that. The race ecm has some things in different places and ecm spy can mess things up. I understand tuner pro will work but do not have any confirmation on that. | ||
| Motorbike |
Well now wait a minute here. I have had the EBR ECM on my 08 XT for a couple of years now and it does the static diagnostics test operation just fine. Hold throttle open, kill switch on, turn key on, watch it cycle one time. It works every time I check it, just like the stocker. I check it every time I have the airbox cover off. Did EBR change this program on their ECM somewhere between mine and the later ones? | ||
| Uly_man |
What tends to happen is if you do not ask your EBR ECM what you want it "comes in the night" and steals electric from your bike. It is the reason your bike can start so bad. It just hates you? | ||
| Arcticktm |
I have no trouble with what EBR said. Was quite clear IMHO. Motorbike - note that my bike is '06, and ECM was therefore for that generation FI system. I believe '08 was first year of the newer system, so your ECM could be different. You also don't have to do TPS resets with a computer like I do! | ||
| Smorris |
i am running stock 06 set up and need to replace actuator with new s1138.1aa.. is there an additional bracket or part that needs to be ordered at the same time? does any one have this #. thanks for any help. | ||
| Tootal |
Nope. Screws right in where the old one was. Remember, never turn the actuator by hand. Attach the cable and then install on the bike. | ||
| Smorris |
is it acceptable to turn by hand in clockwise direction to disengage the cable. without cable attached my 06 oem will rotate full range of motion, (dot to dot marked on top of case), but under load, only rotates about 2/3 of the range of movement. cable moves freely with 1.25" of travel, and snaps closed quite nicely. next will try and check for code using espy or pin cross over on 1 & 2 pins at the port. which is best approach to check? | ||
| Tootal |
NO! You should never turn the cable cam in any direction. If you're taking the cable out or putting it in always remove the actuator, install/remove the cable and reinstall it. | ||
| Arcticktm |
OK, Tootal, now you have to tell us "why not"? What does turning the actuator by hand potentially hurt? Of course, I am asking becasue I have done this several times already over the past few years. Like Smorris, I did it to disengage/engage the cable w/o removing the solenoid from the airbox lid. Inquiring minds... | ||
| Uly_man |
"What does turning the actuator by hand potentially hurt?" It can and does damage the gears inside the unit. More so the early plastic gearing version. I would think it needs lot of power to control the can valve so the actuators electric motor will be high speed and then its geared down for the can valve. Turning it by hand puts a lot of force on the gearing. You can do it with care but its not a good idea. Anyway the easy way is to just pull the cable and lift it off the cam. Thats all I did with mine. | ||
| Tootal |
Uly_man is correct and the older plastic gear units are of course the worst ones. When you buy a new one there is a warning label attached to it. The metal gear ones might survive but why risk it, it's easy enough to do without moving it. | ||
| Arcticktm |
OK, thanks, that is good to know. My bike is June build '06, so that is certainly an early one. Won't do that anymore. Based on my recent knowledge, I really doubt I would bother replacing it if it does fail. No need to hasten it's demise, though. | ||
| Smorris |
i see the replacement is listed as a kit with bracket. possibly so bracket removal will allow cable removal. guess i'll see when it arrives very expensive. i did not see a code, but as mentioned above know it will not do full range movement under load | ||
| Ratbuell |
Arctic - if you ride with the muffler valve in working order...you'll notice if the actuator dies. And you'll want to fix it ASAP. They run MUCH better with a working valve. Smorris - you may not see full range of servo motion with the cable hooked up - the motor can only turn as far as the cable travel allows it. If the valve has less room to move than the motor has to turn, you're going to see limited rotation. Do you lube your valve cable when you lube your throttle and clutch cables? | ||
| Smorris |
i do lube the cables, the service manual however indicates that you are to mark the cable with it manually extended, then adjust cable so that it shows the mark on the cable when the actuator moves the valve. manually i can extend cable 1.25"..guess i need to mark where the actuator gets it to. i assumed the dots on the top of the actuator case were to indicate fully open and fully closed | ||
| Smorris |
just rec'd new exhaust valve actuator and bracket kit. the part number on the box is S1138.1aa says made in usa. part in box has paper tag says p/n s0138.2aab. this is a rivited closed unit. the big thing is this. it is a FoMoCo part. Made in Mexico. the p/n is 3L3E-9G730-EA= 2004 F150 5.4L Intake Manifold Runner Control Valve, $40.00 on ebay. it did come with a seperate bag that contained the cable mounting/retaining bracket. | ||
| Motorbike |
Smorris, I looked at that on EBAY and it looks like the Buell part except for the half pulley part where the cable attaches. The Ford part has a completely different setup on the top. How would you use that? http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m5 70.l1313.TR0.TRC0&_nkw=3L3E-9G730-EA%3D+2004+F150+ 5.4L+&_sacat=0&_from=R40 | ||
| Smorris |
well i am in error. i did not find a photo of the part when i cross referenced the part number. i do know for a fact the actuator i rec'd originated as a FoMoCo part as the case is marked as such, with their p/n. the buell p/n is a paper tag. i have not installed yet. i will photo and try to post. not sure if linkage is press fit or spot welded. so for the misleading info i have provided and appreciate your looking further into it. | ||
| Motorbike |
It's still very interesting to know that the main part of this unit is probably something we could use if we really had to after we can no longer get parts from H-D. A person would need to get a little creative on swapping the cable pulley for the linkage but it could probably be done. I would just never tell anyone that my Buell had a Ford part on it! Thanks for the info! | ||
| Ratman |
Victory's use, or did use Ferd parts in the FI systems. Explains much to me. | ||
| Xbimmer |
Victory's use, or did use Ferd parts in the FI systems. Explains much to me. So do our Buells. | ||
| Froggy |
Off the top of my head, the fuel pump and injectors are Ford parts, O2 sensor is used on many cars, and I'm sure if you tried hard enough you can find an automotive cross reference for all the other sensors, relays, and other electrical components. | ||
| Arry |
That ford part is about $150 less than the Buell part I bought this winter! I think, for the price difference, I'd try to attach the pulley if I have to do it again. | ||
| Uly_man |
I think some worry to much about parts and if they will be able to run the bike in the future. Its a simple bike and you can re-work most of it if needed. Unlike something that has ABS, Active suspension, Can-Bus electronics and the like. These systems are VERY, VERY hard to get around. Just ask the Guy with the Beemer sat on the road side of I66 with an ignition key, a common GS issue, the bike decided it did not like. Love your XB. There like will not come around again. |
