| Author | Message | ||
     Portero72 |
I need wisdom- MANY moons ago I stripped the drain plug hole on the swingarm. After botching a few repairs, I was able to correct it with a helicoil and MUCH larger bolt. Well, the helicoil has failed. This is my plan; Use JB Weld to seal the hole(completely) and tap a new set of threads. Then possibly(if I can find/borrow one), use a Time Sert to solidly and permanently fix the hole. Anybody see errors in my thinking? If not, where can I get a Time Sert kit with the correct threads for the factory drain bolt? Thanks, dudes. | ||
| Rwcfrank |
Other than doing it right by welding or replacing. I would tap the next closest NPT thread (pipe threads are tapered. Install a pipe bushing (brass)and tighten with some teflon sealant. Then use the smaller inside plug to drain the oil, so as not to disturb the large bushing and compromising the seal and or threads. Make sense? | ||
| Cyclonedon |
I tried using JB Weld on the front windscreen screws and it didn't hold there so I don't think it would do any better on the swing arm. | ||
| Firemanjim |
The drain plug is same thread as a bunch of cars and they offer oversize plugs at most auto parts houses. I have used them a couple times when someone was a bit over enthusiastic on the torque. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I tried a heli coil in a buddies SV650 when he stripped his drain plug. It went poorly. The real final fix is what you suggest, but without JBWeld. Just get a big enough timsert so that it has fresh aluminum everywhere and install as per directions. That should seal great and last forever. It probably wouldn't hurt to put JB Weld on it when installing, but it is one more thing to go wrong in some unexpected say, and probably isn't necessary unless the timesert keeeps backing out. Thread locker red would probably be just as effective and easier. | ||
| Reepicheep |
(Or what Jim says with the oversize self tapping plug... which would be MUCH cheaper. You could start with that, just don't keep chewing out so much material that you then don't have anything left to put the Timesert into.) | ||
| Motorbike |
Whatever you do, don't depend on the JB Weld to build up the aluminum. No matter what it says on the package, it is nowhere near as strong as the original part. Plus you are dealing with an oily surface, no matter how much you think you have cleaned it. You might be able to get it clean enough if you remove the swingarm and use a bunch of cleaners but even then, I would not trust JB Weld to build the aluminum back up. If that oil plug drops out onto the road, you are screwed. Thanks. | ||
| Etennuly |
I would not depend on JB weld for any thing other than an emergency fix to get home. I would remove the swing arm, get a short length of something like 3/8" pipe threaded aluminum pipe, then weld it in as a new bung to replace the original threaded part. It would start you over as new and could handle oversizing if needed. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
You could always opt for a bulkhead fitting and use teflon washers to seal it since heat would be an issue and the teflon is high temp compared to other plastics or rubber. Google "small metal bulkhead fitting" if you don't know what it is. | ||
| Prior |
Sounds like you're already beyond using a stock size timesert, but I do have a set that I bought to help guys out with this. If you need it, drop me a PM and I'll send it out. All that I ask is that the sert you use gets replaced (or a few extras, they cost all of $1.00) and stick a few bucks back in the case for shipping costs. Prior | ||
| Portero72 |
Prior- You are correct. I bungled up the first few fixes and wound up using a MUCH larger bolt. Any idea where I can score a larger time sert kit? No one locally seems to have access to any. | ||
| Portero72 |
I think I have it figured out. Local fastener specialty shop can order them. Just need to bring the new bolt in so I can get the correct size insert. Rwcfrank- I do understand what you said. Gonna check into that, as well. Solid idea. | ||
| Uly_man |
"Use JB Weld to seal the hole(completely)." This is not a good idea for this application or any other on a bike. "use a Time Sert to solidly and permanently fix the hole." These are designed as a full fix only if you do not keep taking the bolt in and out, like on a oil change, as you may loosen the insert. You DO NOT want to be using self tapping threads, taper threads, iron/brass fittings or anything like them. Its just asking for trouble and you may even damage the swing arm as well. Can you not re-tap the plug boss for the next size up bolt? Thats the first thing I would try if possible. If not I would weld up the hole and drill and tap a new thread. You should be able to do it with the swing arm on the bike and it would not cost very much to do either. Before doing this unplug the ECM/battery. Flush out the swing arm as well before re-filling with oil. Whatever you do remember this? If you loose the oil plug, while riding, there is a good chance you will destroy the engine. And if the oil hits the rear tire you may have a problem as well. Good luck. | ||
| Teeps |
Many good suggestions above. However, if it was mine, I would either replace the swing arm. or weld the hole, then install a proper timesert. | ||
| Kenm123t |
Weld in a aluminum bung after shaping it to contours of the swing arm and install a proper drain plug in it. Summit racing should have the aluminum bungs for making fuel and oil tanks | ||
| Portero72 |
Ken- Best idea I have heard so far. Never even considered this. I assume that any decent welder will have the correct sized bung if I bring in my drain plug? | ||
| Kenm123t |
Depends look into a marina that builds custom fuel tanks for yachts take them the swing arm after checking if they are willing to do it. You can cut file and sand the bung to the swing arm contours The welder will explain how close a match it needs to be for a solid weld The tank builders should be able to help pick out a bung that's best for the job | ||
| Etennuly |
 That is what I said. Aluminum pipe threaded to fit a plug for a new bung. It can easily be made from a short piece of aluminum pipe if a suitable bung is not available. | ||
| Portero72 |
Etennuly- Where can a chap acquire threaded aluminum pipe? | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Here is the source for all good things: http://www.mcmaster.com/#aluminum-pipe-fittings/=m 02wiu | ||
| Etennuly |
Nate has it in the hardware department. An aluminum 'pipe coupling' of what ever size you would want it to be. | ||
| Uly_man |
Ok if you MUST do it this way use the "hex head" alloy plug. Insert with care, as it is a taper thread, and lock in place with that "never comes apart" HD locking fluid and/or tag weld it to the frame. Prior to that drill a hole for the new oil plug and use a copper washer to seal it. |
