| Author | Message | ||
     Ulysapper |
All, Saturday I am taking my Uly in to get a new front tire put on. Wondering if I should have them install new brake pads at the same time or if that's a fairly easy project to do at home. I've done brakes on my cars many times and if it's a similar process, I'd rather not pay for the additional labor. Also, they don't carry the Lyndall Gold+ that I want so I'd have to get rush shipping from American Sportbike, which adds a few bucks. Thanks | ||
| Dr_greg |
Very easy. IIRC, there's nothing unusual about it, except for the "inside-out" caliper, which IMHO makes it easier. Probably the hardest thing is to maneuver the caliper off the disk. If there IS anything unusual about it (which I've forgotten), I'm sure others will chime in here and contribute. --Doc | ||
| Mark_weiss |
For a pad replacement, the caliper does not have to be removed. When changing pad types, the disc (halo) should be deglazed. Thorough use of course Scotchbrite does the trick. | ||
| Ulysapper |
Thanks for the input. I believe I am going to take the calipers off to thoroughly clean the pistons. Will take the advice and clean up the rotor as well | ||
| Sharkguy |
Check out youtube for this. I just did mine a couple of months ago. It was the easiest thing I've ever done on the bike. | ||
| Luftkoph |
EBC HH pads, I had the pulse blues with stock and with lyndall's but none with the EBC | ||
| Ftd |
Ditto on the EBC pads | ||
| Ulysapper |
Hmmmm... I thought I did all the right research on these pads and it seemed to point toward the majority of Buellers liking the Lyndalls. Well, I guess in a few thousand miles I'll be able to intelligently contribute to that discussion. Mark_weiss: You mentioned that the calipers don't need to come off. I watched the YouTube video and it showed that I'd have to raise the front wheel and take out the axle in order to remove the caliper. I'm not equipped to do that...how do you get the old pads out without removing the caliper? | ||
| Teeps |
Luftkoph Posted on Wednesday, February 27, 2013 EBC HH pads, I had the pulse blues with stock and with lyndall's but none with the EBC How is cold braking with EBC pads? | ||
| Arcticktm |
Ulysapper - search again on pads. While many liked Lyndall, especially early on, many did not, and some that tried them (like me) did not and found better results with EBC HH. seems to mostly be determined by what braking response you like. Lyndalls are liked by those who prefer very little initial bite. EBC HH have much more initial bite, which I like. I want to stop NOW sometimes! It's definitely not a clear cut call on this forum. Some of us bought Lyndall due to reports of them helping with brake pulsing. My experience was that this help was short lived, and was only resolved by changing rotor and pads at same time (in many cases members when with an EBR rotor/mounting hardware and EBC HH pads). Lots of happy folks with that setup, but I don't know that you are having any pulsing issues, so no point fixing something that isn't broken for you. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Al at American Sportbike told me how to choose. He said something or other about the characteristics of one set, and something else about the characteristics of another set, and I said "Oh, I totally want that first set" and paid him and he shipped them to me. That's as much as I remember... all I needed to remember was to call Al again next time.  I have the lyndalls, I think they were a more progressive bite. I think the HH pads had a very abrupt bite, and eat rotors quicker. But I don't really remember. For the pads, I think you remove a couple of pin dust covers (slotted screwdriver), then take out a couple of pins (recessed allen head screw), then you can lift the old pads out, push the pistons back carefully, then put in the new pads and re-assemble. The big bolts that hold the caliper on don't have to be touched. I *think*. | ||
| Ulysapper |
Arcticktm--Roger, will do. I haven't any pulsing issues at this time, just know that my current pads are getting thin. Thanks for the advice. Reep, appreciate the thoughts on the pad replacement, seems pretty intuitive. Also, what's your experience been with the Lyndalls...how long have you ran with them and would you get them again? | ||
| Arcticktm |
Teeps Haven't noticed anything unusual about cold braking with my Ebc hh in a couple years. I like them. They feel like solid sport bike brakes (whatever that means). Cold or hot. Not too grabby for me but I do like a light braking effort. 2 fingers max. | ||
| Motorbike |
I think the HH pads had a very abrupt bite, and eat rotors quicker. Oh great, now I'll lay awake at night worrying about that. I just installed EBC HH pads along with my new EBR Finned Rotor. For those of you with this combination, what is your experience with rotor wear? Maybe I should start out with the Lyndall pads I pulled off, since they are only slightly worn and see how that goes before I install the EBC HH Pads and wear the rotor down? Oh by the way, Al Lighton at American Sport Bike highly recommends cleaning the brake dust off the pistons before pushing them back into the caliper. I spayed mine with brake cleaner and then used a flat shoe string soaked with brake cleaner to wrap around the piston and pulled the ends back and forth the get the pistons super clean. If you don't do this, you risk damaging the seals and also, the brake dust ends up inside the caliper and contaminates your brake fluid. I suspect some will flame me for this and say it is unnecessary. It's up to you but if Al recommended it, it's probably a good idea proven by experience. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I'm happy with the Lyndalls. They don't give you that "holy crap" feeling from the front brakes, which can be kinda fun. But the progressive bite makes them incredibly controllable. They were on the Uly when the Corolla tried to kill me, and I executed a nearly instant and perfect stoppie right into her rear quarter panel as she made a left turn in front of me and tried to accelerate through away from me. It meant I did a somersault over her trunk, which is much preferred to a header into her a-pillar. So I can't complain about brake performance, either for casual use or when used in anger. I have the EBR upgrade rotor as well. | ||
| Arcticktm |
I see no evidence after 2 years of sporty mountain riding that EBCs are harming the rotor in any way more than any Other brake pads. Not abrupt to me, but I was used to Brembos on a Ducati ST2 before my Uly. Lyndalls make a weird buzzing noise too. Some say they like it though so YMMV. I don't think buell riders would care, but don't believe the lyndall website about them being cleaner than other pads for brake dust. The made a mess of the front wheel just like any other. I agree they are more progressive than ebc but I'd didn't like the amount of pressure I had to use in harder stops. I did follow all of the lyndall suggested break in when I tried them. Clean up your rotor well and maybe scothbrite it like others have suggested. Glad you don't have the dreaded pulsing. I you did you should change rotor and pads at same time. Enjoy ! | ||
| Ratbuell |
I know I'll never use Lyndalls again. Hard riding, and they don't fade...they just LEAVE. There one turn, gone the next. Pucker up, buttercup I'm also starting to get some pulsing back - new rotor with about 5k on it, EBR mounting kit. EBC's will be my next set. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Oh, and I always unbolt the caliper. With the pads installed, you can wedge the caliper crooked and use that to retract the pistons evenly. From there, it's pull-pins-and-swap-pads. Just MAKE SURE you get lever feel BEFORE you ride down the driveway. DAMHIK. | ||
| Uly_man |
No idea on these but? Clean your pistons (is best) on a pad change and change the fluid at LEAST (the fronts need it) every 10k miles on a XB. Clean the rotor if you have had OEM pads before using other pads. There should be NO pulsing for ANY reason with aftermarket pads. The EBC HH pads work well. Good (enough) power, progressive and I have not found they wear the rotor. Braking on a bike is a skill and for best effects use of the rear and engine as well is best, if possible. If you rely on just the front you can have a problem. Warming up the pads and rotor by "easing" the power on works good. If you "slam" the power on with a cold disc you could cause a "hot spot" that may warp the disc. A brake pad and rotor are made to match each other. The wrong mix can cause problems but the EBC HH and OEM rotor seem fine (to me). | ||
| Reepicheep |
I'll agree that the Lyndalls do fade. Alex Prior and I both were running them on Uly's during the last NC trip. Reasonably sporty mountain riding, fast enough to blow by squids, but slow relative to actual fast guys. We both noticed fade... but it was also 90 degrees and we were riding loaded up Uly's in the mountains. In my experience, they didn't go away suddenly, it was fairly predictable, but I'm not a super aggressive rider. I'm happy with them, but when I wear them out I was thinking of trying a little more aggressive pad anyway. | ||
| Ulysapper |
I've learned quite a bit here, thanks again for all the input, opinions, and experience! From March thru June I'll be in Augusta, GA seeking out fun rides in that area. It will give me a chance to test how they feel for me and further determine if I need to make any changes, sooner or later. If anyone is in that area, let me know. Would love to meet up one weekend. I'm living in KY right now and unfamiliar with that neck of the woods. |
