| Author |
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Mikef5000
| | Posted on Friday, December 14, 2012 - 10:21 pm: | 
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I don't ever float the back end of those other bikes, just like I never did on my Buells. I'm talking, real world, every day back brake use. The Buell's feels wooden, and lacking in stopping power. |
Etennuly
| | Posted on Friday, December 14, 2012 - 11:40 pm: |
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I like having a rear brake that does not lock up, as in when coming into a corner a little too hot, laid over and needing a little more slow me down brake and not a skid out.
We have all misjudged a corner before. It is kind of nice to have a bike save us from ourselves.
I have always told folks in order to see the rear brake's effectiveness on a stop, run it up to about 70, come down with consistent medium force on the front brake then when it settles into its stopping attitude, add rear brake to see how it pulls the bike down and slows it more dramatically. |
Zac4mac
| | Posted on Sunday, December 16, 2012 - 01:13 am: |
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Late Buells all send the exhaust right at the rear disk.
Helped them pass EPA noise regs and still have some power.
Downside is disk gets crapped up with water and carbon.
My Uly is almost the same as my 1125 in that respect.
Try dragging the rear brake the first mile or so in the morning.
You'll feel when the gunk goes away.
My rears on both bike can lock easily. but that's not a good thing so I don't stomp on them ever.
Zack |
Hdxbones
| | Posted on Sunday, December 16, 2012 - 05:04 pm: |
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As I said in my original post, I was looking for a more effective and predictable rear brake for some specific conditions. It seems that some immediately assumed that I didn't know how to stop a motorcycle. I can assure all of you that isn't the case. I've been riding (and successfully stopping) 2-wheeled motorized vehicles on dirt, mud, sand, and pavement since 1970, and while I'm sure I could always learn something new, I think I've got a decent handle on effective braking. My gripe about the rear brake on the new to me Uly, was that it was not progressive or predictable. It seemed to take excessive force to obtain minimal braking results. My inquiry was aimed to find out if this was normal, or if I had issues with my particular brake that I could correct. Like any of my other bikes, I don't intend to rely on it for routine or emergency braking. There are however, specific situations when I'd like to be able count on the rear brake being predictable and effective.
After taking a couple of days off from work this past week, and riding the bike the bike a few hundred miles more, the rear brake does seem to be improving. I've put additional emphasis on 'bedding' it, and it does seem to be improving with use. I believe that the pads were glazed when I purchased the bike. At least it's now becoming predictable, and braking force is proportional to pressure on the lever. While it's still not 'great', it's much better than it was originally.
Thanks for the replies and suggestions, I may still try some aftermarket pads, and will probably flush the fluid over the winter. A little better would be better, but at least I can work with it the way it is now... |
Uly_man
| | Posted on Sunday, December 16, 2012 - 05:49 pm: |
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As said the discs are fine and WELL good enough for road riding. I changed out the OEM pads for my OWN road riding style but thats just me. Unlike the 06 bike (because it had little) I have been using much more "engine braking" for slowing on the 10 bike but this can give a "dirty disc" sometimes for a fast stop so I allow for that if needed. All of this is just "riding a bike" to me and the need to adjust this for style, conditions, bike, etc is normal.
I am not sure why anyone would compare a Glides braking to a Uly anyway. Man it weighs near twice the weight to start with.
Please, with all due respect to those who do not know, try to understand that any single bike (even of the same type) is not the same. Or, and the one to know, the EXACT SAME BIKE will NOT ride/feel the same from one person to another.
There are few products in the world that are as "personal" as a bike. A bike is just about the last "freedom" of the road so enjoy it while you can because once the EPA and others get there "hooks" in you may just as well walk it. |
Arry
| | Posted on Sunday, December 16, 2012 - 10:19 pm: |
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Hdx, I'm, also, hoping to improve the rear brake a little. I've seen EBC (HH), SBS (sintered), and Lindal pads mentioned as improvements, but havent decided which to try yet. |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Monday, December 17, 2012 - 09:26 am: |
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You are right Hdxbones, I apologize for the lecture.
If it still bugs you, then it comes down to simple physics of the master cylinder versus the brake caliper cylinder. a larger diameter cylinder on the master cylinder (attached to the foot lever) will move across a shorter travel but require more force (which it sounds like you already have and don't like).
A narrower cylinder will move across a longer stroke and require less force, but more distance, which it sounds like you want.
So that could be an approach as well, swap out a master cylinder from some other bike that has a narrower bore. It will no doubt take some cobbling, but it's usually possible and probably would not cost much to find some take off parts from another bike on ebay.
The same thing could be done via the lever... shorter levers will take more force through a shorter throw. Longer levers will take less force through a longer throw.
I'm guessing it would be easier to source and fit a new master cylinder than a new brake lever, but both should be very solvable problems.
One thing to keep in mind is cornering clearance (if you care). The lean angle the Buell elves gave us on a Uly is unprecedented for an adventure tourer, and is nothing short of remarkable. If you increase the rear brake throw, you will likely create a contact point when trail braking while leaned. If you don't trail brake or don't lean that far, you may not care, but if it did suprise you it would do so at about the worst possible time (cranked WAY over in a corner trying to control the chassis geometry with light trail braking).
If you touched at that moment, you would simultaneously be distracted, your bike would unsquat and start to run wide, and you would pick up a little speed. If you were already on the edge of your pucker envelope when that happened (and I would be), it could be the straw that breaks (brakes?) the camels back. |
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