| Author | Message | ||
     Backcountrybuell |
Hi all, I tried this over at the knowledge vault but had no luck, so i thought i'd cast a wider net. I need help with a mystery check engine light. Once my bike has warmed up (say after 30min of riding) whenever i drop the revs to come to a stop light or giveway, the check engine light comes on. Once I accelerate away after about 2 seconds the light disappears. There is no error code being saved, and i can't go for a logged ECMspy ride because i can't get the f%$king cable to talk to my computer. There doesn't appear to be anything else wrong. Bike is a 2006 xb12x, I have moved the ECM (problem was happening before and is now sill happening) and i originally thought oil pressure (even though its not the oil light) so i changed the oil and filter but it still is happening. I don't ride the bike hard. Has anyone had this same problem?? Any hints or diagnostics welcomed. cheers | ||
| Froggy |
Low battery voltage. Get your battery load tested, make sure the cables are tight and secured Check your "77" connector Check the output from the Stator at both idle and 3000 RPM | ||
| Froggy |
Being that it only happens when the bike is warm, I am wondering if is related to the fan coming on, which would tell me you are not having enough juice to keep the battery charged. | ||
| Kip |
Try checking the exhaust valve actuator. There is a test on here some where. My 06 had the same thing happening I replaced with updated actuator and have not had the light come on since. I don't even use the actuator because I have a Drummer exhaust but I could not stand the check light comming on. | ||
| Fordhotline |
Sounds like my 06 Uly. Light would come on at times with no DTC's. I installed a voltage meter and noticed that when light came on voltage dropped. Replaced burnt && connecter and was fine. A month later same thing happened but it was over charging. Then i installed a voltage reg. | ||
| Uly_man |
"and i can't go for a logged ECMspy ride because i can't get the f%$king cable to talk to my computer." You need the cable driver to make it work. You can get it from the FDTI site for the OS of your computer. The tricky bit, or can be, is to load it into device manager. Download the Zip file version, make a new directory and open the files to it. Plug in cable and device manager should say its found the files. If not I will go trough it with you if needed. Better still use TunerPro but you will still need the driver installed. Its a LOT better and easy. You may just as well as you have the cable anyway. | ||
| Backcountrybuell |
OK guys, time for an update. This is getting mysterious. So the same thing is still happening, but doesn't seem to wait until the bike is warm. Battery is a perfect 12.7 vaults. And stays under 15 vaults when the bike is running so i guess the VR is OK. I have checked the 77 connector and all looks good to an untrained eye. I ran the tests on the stator. Its not grounded, and the output is good at 2000 revs (about 32V). The only stator test I was unsure of was the resistance test across the pins as it showed no resistance (0.00 Ohms). The manual says it should be between 0.1 and 0.3. What does it mean to have no resistance between any of the pins?? is this something i should be worried about? I'm no electrical genius and its just a cheap meter... Also, the fan comes on fine, say when i park the bike. and no light comes on then. Yesterday when i was riding I was cruising in 5th gear at about 100kmh, then backed off to 80kph and didn't drop any gears. revs down to 2800rpm and the light came on. Wouldn't go off until i dropped a gear to pick the revs above 3000rpm. Also, since my original post I have installed a battery meter (single LED type) And it has been happily glowing green the whole time. I have a slip on Jardine pipe so i'm not using the Exhaust Valve Actuator, but i doubt the actuator would be coming on slowly dropping the revs to 2800 and cruising. And despite all this info it is still an intermittent problem, doesn't happen all the time and there appears to be little pattern. But rolling off the revs and cruising in a lower rev range seems to most often be the pattern, but not always. ARR Any more help/ideas/tests would be appreciated. In the meantime the bike appears to be working fine, but i don't fancy another ride home in the back of a ute. Sorry for the metric speeds, and all the info and questions. happy riding   |
