| Author | Message | ||
     Preachermann |
Now that the weather has cooled off I am not seeing this problem, but when it was August (in Tx), going down the highway (at 70) my check engine light would start to flash on an 06 uly.. I would slow down, it would stop. I tried multiple solutions, finally I determined it was the exhaust valve sticking - rolling on and off the throttle would alleviate the problem. The servo works fine, I lubed the cable. I finally decided the bike doesn't like hot weather. Has anyone else had this problem? Do I need my muffler rebuilt? What might be a more permanent solution. I have 41k miles on the bike. Thanks. I want this fixed before next summer. | ||
| Teeps |
Sounds like skip spark mode. They do that, it's the ECM trying to save the rear cylinder from melting. Could also be related to faulty ETS or cracked solder joints in the ECM. So, it's either normal for conditions or an intermittent failure. Until such time the symptom is continuous on every ride. Don't worry about it. | ||
| Preachermann |
So am I right that it doesn't like to be ridden in 105 degree weather? | ||
| Teeps |
Not particularly. The right side scoop helps. They definitely don't like to be in traffic in those temps. | ||
| Preachermann |
I have a right side scoop. Have read all that I can on this. My biggest concern is trust in the bike on a long trip in the heat of summer. As I said, it is fine now, the servo seems to work fine, I believe the valve in the muffler is sticking. Is this possible? Would having it rebuilt fix it, or is there something else? | ||
| Teeps |
The muffler valve cannot be serviced, as it's welded into the muffler. You can run the bike with the valve fully open for a test. I did mine a few years ago by removing the cable from the actuator. Then securing several small zip ties in a row on the valve wire, after pulling it until it stopped. The zip ties will hold valve open. | ||
| Buewulf |
Preacherman, I live in Houston, and the bike definitely does not like hot weather. But I have never had heat problems at sustained highway speeds of 70+ mph in temps above 100°. At worst, I've gotten some pretty bad pinging at lower (< 30 mph), congested speeds or pulling away from a long stoplight. I'd say what you are experiencing is not normal even at those temps. Do you have ECMSpy? Use it to pull the trouble code. If the servo is working, then I can't imagine the valve is your problem as I do not think the mechanical valve has a position sensor that could throw the code (correct me if I am wrong) if it is sticking, nor would it make your engine light blink even if it did though the code. If you are going into meltdown mode, it would be helpful to know what temperature the sensor is actually reading when the light blinks. It could be that the sensor is bad. If it is truly overheating at 70mph, then something is wrong, and I would suspect that perhaps the oil cooler fins need a cleaning or its oil passage is partially blocked by something. | ||
| Preachermann |
Oil system partially blocked. Great insight. Does one merely flush the oil system? I have recently had the oil changed and a new filter, but it did it again on a hot day right after that. | ||
| Buewulf |
I would expect the blockage, if any, would be at the oil cooler inlet or perhaps in the oil cooler itself. I imagine you could remove the cooler and attempt to flush it. | ||
| Hughlysses |
I'm confused at your post- you seem to have determined the problem was with the exhaust valve not working properly- why are you looking any farther? Have you tested the exhaust valve actuator to ensure it is working correctly all the time? Remove the air box cover, hold the throttle wide open, turn the ignition on (don't crank up), and the actuator should operate through its full range and then return to the closed position. If it hesitates while moving or doesn't go all the way, the gears inside are shot and you should replace the actuator. If you want to get rid of it you can wire the muffler valve open (at the expense of some mid-range power) or you can change to an aftermarket muffler that doesn't use the valve, or have your muffler reworked by Drummer. As to the suggestion that it's an oil system blockage- I'd think an oil system blockage is a possibility, but a pretty remote possibility. If enough crap is floating is floating around in the oil to clog anything you'd have bigger problems, like failed rod bearings (DAMHIK). | ||
| Motorbike |
Preachermann, I really don't think the muffler valve would cause this overheat problem if it were stuck either way. The valve never blocks the exhaust flow, just re-routes it. If the exhaust is routed the long way, there will be slight back pressure from the muffler and will be quiet. If it goes the short way, very little restriction and more noise. And besides, from what I understand, the valve only opens under full throttle, high RPM conditions anyway. I would look elsewhere for the solution. Thanks. | ||
| Etennuly |
 This problem comes up often under different suspected names and descriptions. You have the dreaded "Flashy light/run/skip/no codes/can't figure it out/won't go 70 when it's 70F/back off the throttle to get home/drive you nuts/dealer don't care/mechanics can't find it/make you test everything" issue. Yep, I've heard of it.  Took me two years to find what finally fixed it. | ||
| Preachermann |
And what finally fixed it Etennuly | ||
| Buewulf |
Took me two years to find what finally fixed it. Pause for effect! | ||
| Etennuly |
Oh sorry, I got busy there for a while. After replacing and testing everything under the sun for a couple of years, I got pissed one hot day as Wolfrigerider and I were on our way home from 2010 Homecoming. I could not maintain speed on the Interstate where it was above 90F, he had to keep slowing down for me. I pulled into a gas station and cut the fan wire that runs to the ECM. I wired it directly so that the fan ran all of the time. Problem solved. When I got home I rigged a proper switch and manually turn it on all of the time when the temps are above 50F. I don't know if the problem was the additional cooling was needed - OR - the ECM could not handle that much electrical power passing through it for the fan's on and off/speed controlling, that all works through the ECM's ground. With a proper switch that has an indicator in it's handle, I have not had a single time that the "flashy light/run/skip" has returned under any circumstances. Even 100F fully loaded, two up, up a long hill on the Interstate. | ||
| Preachermann |
Thanks, Previous owner had installed a switch, fan comes on by itself, but may need to come on sooner. Next warm day I will switch fan on at beginning of ride and see what happens. Currently it is cool and the bike is running great! | ||
| Etennuly |
My bike always has run great when cool temps are at hand, but it was a bitch for above 70F for two years. Now it runs great all of the time. | ||
| Turf_moor |
I don't know what grade petrol is available in USA, maybe 95 at best? Ulysses never ping (pink) on the better grade petrol we get in Europe. In UK I put 97 in. Better m.p.g. too. Now I'm living in Portugal and 98 is available I put that in. Even in 40 celsius (over 100 fahrenheit) there is no pinging. |
