Author |
Message |
Britchri10
| Posted on Wednesday, October 24, 2012 - 07:59 pm: |
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I've seen the appropriate thread re: the re-wire of the headlight plug but I can't find it on BW. How do I make low & main be on together? Thx & apologies for my poor search technique? Chris C |
Yjsrule
| Posted on Wednesday, October 24, 2012 - 08:15 pm: |
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Here's a good one with pics. http://www.buellxb.com/Buell-XB-Forum/Do-It-Yourse lf-Buell-Mods/Headlight-Mod---Both-Lights-On-w-Hi- Beam |
Britchri10
| Posted on Thursday, October 25, 2012 - 07:00 am: |
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Thanks man! I hope to get on it this weekend. Chris C |
Hughlysses
| Posted on Thursday, October 25, 2012 - 08:22 am: |
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Very nice write-up. I finally (after ~5 years of ownership) got around to doing that mod a couple of weekends ago. The pictorial above would have made it even easier! |
Uly_man
| Posted on Thursday, October 25, 2012 - 01:23 pm: |
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The only problem with this version of doing it is that it uses the position/park light feed so if you switch it to that, with the ignition key, the dip beam will come one. This is not good if you use this function as it will kill the battery. Apart from that it is a easy way of doing it. The other way is to solder a link in the lighting switch. Not hard to do either. I have used both. |
Natexlh1000
| Posted on Thursday, October 25, 2012 - 03:58 pm: |
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Other methods I have tried: Elastic band on passing light trigger Putting the hi/low switch in the middle Jamming the switch in the middle is a bad thing. I heard of some that have burnt the switch doing that but I got away with it. |
Uly_man
| Posted on Thursday, October 25, 2012 - 04:34 pm: |
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I tried a large screwdriver hammered into the light switch. I do not know why but the more I smashed the screwdriver into the switch the less it liked it. The lights worked ok sometimes but not in the rain, at night or if the engine was running? |
Natexlh1000
| Posted on Thursday, October 25, 2012 - 10:52 pm: |
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What size rock did you use to drive the screwdriver? Was the rock metric? |
Tootal
| Posted on Saturday, October 27, 2012 - 11:45 am: |
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I originally did the quick switch of the wires as mentioned in the link above. I ran it this way until someone mentioned that when you do it this way it changes which fuse your low beam is on and it doesn't shut off during starting. I then soldered the wire in the switch area and switched the connector wiring back to stock. Now the headlight goes out during starting like it's supposed to. Might be something to consider. Here's a link that I used: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/329497.html |
Uly_man
| Posted on Saturday, October 27, 2012 - 02:09 pm: |
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Now that is a GOOD point, Tootal? The first version may be better for HID systems as they do not like to be "switched off/out" once started up. It is not something I have tested for as yet though. |
Zac4mac
| Posted on Sunday, October 28, 2012 - 02:16 pm: |
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I notice that if I start with my hi-beams on, only the one bulb cuts out, the lo-beam stays on... I like the mod too much to change tho... best thing I've modded on the Uly. Different fuse now? have to look into that. Finally got all the manuals in for the Uly. I have HIDs on Loretta, my 1125R, no relay; they cut-out then back on every start. I installed them Summer 2008, about 22000 miles ago, no issues, still bright as the sun, but bluer. Zack |
Jphish
| Posted on Thursday, November 08, 2012 - 07:12 pm: |
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Like Tootal, I rewired head lamp back to stock configuration. (I think it runs off aux circuit if you do headlamp rewire) Then soldered the "bridge" in headlamp switch - (dont loose any of the little parts...sproinnnnng) It worked great, with no normal "after John fixed it" malfunctions. |
Tipsymcstagger
| Posted on Sunday, December 02, 2012 - 11:55 pm: |
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Old discussion and most of the photos are no longer hosted, but as others have mentioned, I bridged the contacts on the switch and have never looked back. Tipsy |
Jamba
| Posted on Monday, December 03, 2012 - 03:31 am: |
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Is there a DIY thread where all these could be stored? - both lights on - breather mod/rerouting - XB9 primary gearing - etc.. It's sometimes hard to find these instructions, when they like disappear to the heaven of (kilo)bits... |
Buelldualsport
| Posted on Tuesday, December 04, 2012 - 10:42 pm: |
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Knowledge Vault Try it you might like it |
Towpro
| Posted on Wednesday, December 05, 2012 - 10:17 am: |
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But a 6A diode between the Highbeam positive wire and the lowbeam positive wire. (off the top of my head) The side of the diode with the stripe connects to the low beam positive wire. When on low beam, the diode blocks current from turning on the high beam. When on high beam, the diode conducts current and turns on the low beam. This allows you to still have the dim light for sitting on the side of the rode, and the load shed relay still turns off the light for starting. |
Chorizo
| Posted on Wednesday, December 05, 2012 - 11:25 am: |
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Hey Towpro Would the diode go near the connector under the fly screen? I tried the switching wires and it was so stubborn I stopped before I ruined the connector. Or for sure suffer a puncture wound. I have used the switch in between method. It works but I bet its sizzling just a bit in there. |
Chorizo
| Posted on Wednesday, December 05, 2012 - 12:57 pm: |
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Hey would the diode method be ok for did conversion? |
Argentcorvid
| Posted on Wednesday, December 05, 2012 - 03:31 pm: |
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quote:Knowledge Vault Try it you might like it
Or you might blow your brains out because there's no good way to find answers without going through every post. |
Froggy
| Posted on Wednesday, December 05, 2012 - 03:53 pm: |
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Buelldualsport
| Posted on Wednesday, December 05, 2012 - 07:03 pm: |
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Each to his/her own. It is interesting reading, always learn something new. Regards YRMV |
Towpro
| Posted on Wednesday, December 05, 2012 - 08:26 pm: |
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I had the diode mounted under the fly screen. Basically I soldered a wire on each end of the diode, Put tape of heat shrink over the exposed wires (and diode if you want) then clipped it onto the head light wires with those blue 3m connectors. If you want to remove it, just pull off the connectors and put sealer over the mark the connector made in the jacket. IF a head light is 55w, take 55w divided by 14 volts = 3.9 amp. Plus add some for safety and 6A is more then enough. I used Radioshack 276-1661 (pack of 4 for $2.69), which is found is most stores I am pretty sure about the strip direction, but as a test, just bend the leads and stick them into the headlight wire harness connector to make sure I got the polarity correct. If you have it backwards, the highbeam will light during lowbeam use. I was running the diode with a pair of 35W HID lights. Now A diode does drop a couple tenths of a volt as it conducts, but your charging system changes a couple volts with RPM so you never will see the voltage drop in your light. |
Chorizo
| Posted on Thursday, December 06, 2012 - 12:51 pm: |
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Thanks Towpro. I can do that without the puncture wound lol |
Motorbike
| Posted on Thursday, December 06, 2012 - 01:04 pm: |
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Towpro, am I understanding this correctly? You did the "both headlights on high beam" mod with just a simple diode between the hot wires that power the lights? That sounds way too simple. I made a job out of it and added the little jumper wire in the bright / dim switch instead. Works great but your way sounds much easier. Thanks. |