| Author | Message | ||
     Skifastbadly |
Resistance between pins is .2 ohms. Resistance of either pin to ground is futile...er, zero. I ordered the stator and associated bits yesterday from American Sport Bike. Coming up next, a play by play re-enactment of a a monkey replacing a stator. Stay tuned, and thanks for your help. | ||
| Mark_weiss |
If you have continuity between the two stator terminals, with very low resistance, the stator winding is not broken. This would have produced zero charging. If there is no continuity between the stator winding and ground. The stator is not directly shorted and the insulation is not degraded (which would produce less severe grounding). These conditions appear to be true. If you are overcharging, your voltage regulator is not clamping down on charging voltage. The generator assembly (rotating magnets and stationary windings) is capable of producing a lot of power. The voltage regulator converts the AC power produced by the generator to DC and then limits the output to about 14.5vdc so that electrical and electronic components are not cooked. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Resistance of either pin to ground is zero? Or infinity? If zero, the stator is toast. But then how are you getting 17V to the battery? It is possible, but unlikely. | ||
| Brijasher |
Skifast, Continuity is yes/no only where resistance is a continuous range. I.e. Can electricity flow vs how big is the pipe it is flowing in. | ||
| Skifastbadly |
Reep: Resistance of either pin to ground is almost zero. If I crank the range down I think it's maybe .2 Ohm, which makes some sense, there's gotta be some resistance between the frame and the source right. I have NO idea how I'm getting 17V to the battery if the stator's grounded, but I have no idea how to otherwise understand the fact that the resistance isn't infinite. If the stator is not grounded, the reading on the mutimeter should be the same whether the probes are in the air, or whether I've gone on on the wire and the other on the frame. Brijasher: Not sure I agree entirely, resistance is the inverse of continuity, right? Since I'm showing near zero resistance, that would indicate continuity. Unless, and this is entirely possible, I'm completely missing something. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Zero resistance is full continuity. Best to just stop talking about continuity all together and stick to resistance. Zero resistance (or low resistance) to ground is really bad on the stator, it's toast. it will still produce voltage though, as the stator winding is shorted in the middle somewhere. Either end can still generate volts, just not many of them, and via some funky path through the rectifier / regulator. You may have a toasted stator and regulator. Happened to me on my M2, still can't explain why. | ||
| Skifastbadly |
Yeah I'm assuming that's the case. Ordered all the necessary parts, VR, Stator, bolts, gaskets, beer. | ||
| Mark_weiss |
As I recall, the most difficult thing about replacing the stator was removing the flywheel. Not the bolt, etc, but just pulling the flywheel away against very strong magnetic pull. | ||
| Skifastbadly |
Thanks for the tip, Mark. Then I assume that putting back on was super easy  | ||
| Pnw_uly |
Did the stator / VR swap last month (was also blowing headlights), really not too difficult, and this is coming from a guy who won't do his own fork service. . . Also a good time to swap down to the XB9 gearing if you're so inclined. No regrets, and I use the Uly primarily as a commuter. | ||
| Pnw_uly |
Here's two links to my efforts - - some good info from other individuals who had greater knowledge on the topic that preceded me. Thought I had posted the follow-up photos, obviously failed to do so. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/680806.html?1339467858 http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/680178.html?1337832321 The "V-Twin" YouTube videos (link in one of the threads) are really helpful,although its for a big twin - - still 90% the same. Best of luck. | ||
| Skifastbadly |
Hmmm....Looks like I have to pull the clutch and the rotor at the same time? That true? Seems like an extra PITA. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Yup. You can't get the chain off otherwise, and it is easier than dismantling the clutch. | ||
| Thesmaz |
Yes you have to pull them both at the same time... and yes its a PITA! | ||
| Mark_weiss |
More photos in this thread: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/593868.html?1284225243 Looks like it took me a little more than an hour for the disassembly. Reassembly was quicker. Simultaneous removal of the flywheel and clutch pack is tricky. Mostly because the flywheel takes considerable pull against the magnets. An extra hand would greatly ease the task. Be sure to thoroughly clean the shifter shaft so that you don't damage the seal in the primary cover. | ||
| Reepicheep |
It's not awful, just takes some big sockets and an aluminum plate. And watch the fingers when pulling the stator bell off. | ||
| Skifastbadly |
It begins... Stator and VR due to ship from American Sport Bike on Monday, but I have some time this afternoon. I could have saved a whole bunch of time testing the stator if I had simply drained the transmission fluid like I'm doing now, it positively reeks of burned up electronics. | ||
| Hughlysses |
I could have saved a whole bunch of time testing the stator if I had simply drained the transmission fluid like I'm doing now, it positively reeks of burned up electronics. That used to be the first thing people recommended to check for a fried stator; remove the inspection cover and give it a good sniff. Well, at least there's no doubt now. | ||
| Skifastbadly |
Well, I think we've reached a diagnosis....  | ||
| Griffmeister |
Just for info, what have you been using for primary/trans oil? Besides that, it looks like your testing was right, short to ground. And this was the first check, really, how hard was that? Remove air scoop, pull plug, check wires, and no smelly oil to deal with. Well at least not until now.  | ||
| Skifastbadly |
Just for info, what have you been using for primary/trans oil? HD Screaming Eagle Synthetic | ||
| Tootal |
The squauking chicken oil wouldn't hurt it so it was just it's time. Gear lubes have the bad chemicals for the stator. | ||
| Skifastbadly |
I guess that's not going to buff out. So what exactly happened here? I've already established myself as not an electrical genius, but I am curious what this is. Did the black set of windings short to the case? And if so, why aren't all the coils fried? And since the whole thing is bathed in oil (that's a funny line about squawking chicken, by the way) does that mean that normally, oil is non-conductive? Since this seems to be a common occurrence, what causes it. And finally, with the 08 having just a hair under 19K miles, isn't this rather soon for a failure like this? Inquiring minds want to know. | ||
| Portero72 |
The 07 and earlier bikes were prone to VR/stator failures dues to poor 77 connectors. While not unheard of, the later bikes do not suffer the same frequency of failures. Yours might be the 2nd or 3rd I have read about. My electrical fluency is light years behind yours, so why yours went south is a guess best left to bears smarter than I.... | ||
| Skifastbadly |
So the replacement stator is on the way. Before I reassemble everything, does anyone have a thought as to how this happened? It's fine if it's a random failure but I'd hate to put it all together again and have it fail immediately because I cured the symptom but not the cause.... | ||
| Pnw_uly |
Consider the age of the battery. . . I think a stator can fail by trying to keep a faulty or worn-out battery up to charge. If you are running your OEM battery, might be worth a new one. . . | ||
| Tootal |
My stator shorted too but I just changed the VR which blew again because I didn't change the stator. Hence my warning to you. Once I replaced all the parts I've had no more problems for many miles. | ||
| Skifastbadly |
For you guys who replaced your stator: Ming just arrived, do you replace the whole cable? It looks like it unplugs where it enters the case? | ||
| Buellerxt |
Are you still mucking about with this stator, Ski? Come on, Man, you improvised quickly on the side of the road and replaced your belt, then produced an informative, and hilarious write-up on it. I keep checking back to read an entertaining account of your success here and I keep finding 'interim' reports and more questions!  Hey, I'm kidding, Man! TOTALLY kidding. I'm impressed that you are biting into this one. Best of luck. I'll keep tuning in! | ||
| Skifastbadly |
Ok never mind that last question, I got that all figured out. So, here's where we are: New stator installed, chain/rotor/clutch re-installed. So what have we learned? First of all, where the service manual says "Install clutch and rotor as an assembly" it fails to mention that you gotta have Popeye forearms for that because it's heavy and the magnets on the rotor make installing it properly a giant sized game of "Operation". Here's where I cheated: The manual insists the rubber isolator that seals the wiring from the rotor going out the back of the case be lubricated with new clean oil. I didn't open a new oil bottle I used old oil.  Further, I used the OLD screws for the retainer clip, and I used the OLD clip for the clutch adjuster.  Now all I have to do is put the cover back on, adjust the clutch, and replace the VR, scheduled to arrive today. Unfortunately, I leave tomorrow for a five day break to see my old sainted mother in Milwaukee, so that's the update for this week. |
