| Author | Message | ||
     Portero72 |
09x with 45k started acting strange today-lurching like it was running out of gas. For the first several miles, steady throttle would produce a random skip/lurch. Any more than half throttle would result in a stutter, as if there were water in the gas. As it got hotter, it seemed to rectify itself and run normally. Until it was fully hot, the idle would fluctuate badly, twice resulting in stalls. I have checked/cleaned all grounds under the seat as well as cleaned the IAC. The only mods I have are a relocated EBR ECM. Any ideas where I should begin looking? | ||
| Firemanjim |
With 45k I would look at intake seals. | ||
| Uly_man |
I have found that electronic/electrical engine running problems do the same thing while mechanical problems will come and go. Not a 100% cover on all problems of course. Use logic to reason through the problem. "With 45k I would look at intake seals." Possible. Or a damaged cable/wire plug. Hard to say. Start with the basics and prove each part/function IE plugs ok, seals ok, fuel pump/filter ok, etc until you trace the fault or at least narrow the possible parts. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Also, you may very well have water in your gas! Ethanol loves water and water is more dense than gas/oil. Perhaps dump some gas from the drain at the bottom of the tank and look it over. If you see water in there, a winner is you.  | ||
| Portero72 |
Anybody know the correct procedure for testing the intake seals? | ||
| Argentcorvid |
spray propane, butane or any other flammable gas in vicinitiy when the bike is running. If the engine speed changes then you've found the problem. make sure you're only spraying it around the throttle body/head junction, if it gets in the intake, it can give you a false indication. | ||
| Tootal |
WD-40 works too, you just have to wash it off when done. Brake cleaner works but be sure and leave the air cleaner intact and just remove the scoops to spray it. Keeps from getting the false positive as mentioned above. I think the book says to use water but I've never tried that. | ||
| Portero72 |
I will try and test the intakes as soon as I can. If it turns out to be that, rotating the engine is in my future, no? | ||
| Tootal |
Nope. Just pull the scoops and the complete airbox. Not a problem, did it 5 times one Summer! Things I've learned is to lubricate all surfaces of the seals. Once in position put the flanges on and tighten finger tight. Put the upper screw in the throttle body and snug it. Pull the flanges down evenly using a screw driver between the TB and the flange to keep it centered. Don't over tighten the flanges. Once tight then tighten the upper screw. Not that bad of a job, just time consuming. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Remember his bike is an 09. The 08-up XB's have different intake flanges from the earlier XB's. The details of the install may be a little different. They're supposed to be significantly easier to R&R than the older ones. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I really think it's more likely that he has a frame full of crappy gas. It's a lot more easy to dump out some of the fuel and look it over I think. | ||
| Tootal |
Hugh, you are correct. I forgot they changed them and a much better design IMO. The older ones were just like a Harley which is STUPID!! Why would anybody make a two hole flange and offset the holes to one side so you don't have equal pressure all the way around? Should have been in line or a third screw installed. | ||
| Conchop |
Not sure about Buell - But on a Vic the problem was generally a Throttle Position Sensor TPS. | ||
| Portero72 |
Natex- What is your preferred method for draining a bit of gas? FWIW, I have filled the tank at least once since the problem began. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
The hex you want lives here:  Never tried it myself but pretty sure that is the best way to make a mess of your garage floor. I have done the equivalent with my X1 a few times though. Much more obvious with the hoses exposed though. | ||
| Portero72 |
Well, one possible culprit off the list-I think. Took the scoops and airbox plate off and tested for intake leaks. Used a ton of brake cleaner and never noticed a change in the idle. Next up? Testing things with tools I do not have-fuel pressure and draining the tank. Interestingly enough, the manual states to replace drain plug every time it is removed. Sigh. FWIW, my dongle shows only the code for the fan-which runs fine. | ||
| Uly_man |
"replace drain plug every time it is removed. Sigh." No need. Just syphon the last of the fuel from the tank. No mess. No problem. Easy as. And the CEL is of no use at all. (Message edited by Uly_man on August 22, 2012) | ||
| Reepicheep |
In the future use propane or WD-40, that brake cleaner is nasty stuff, it'll strip all sorts of things and dissolve all sorts of plastic. Did it backfire when it came back from the stutter? And did the tach ever jump up while it was stuttering? If yes and yes, you may have a crank sensor issue as well. | ||
| Uly_man |
Ok so it is time for work on fuel injection systems. First every air intake seal needs to be 100% and that includes the injector seals as well. Second every wire, ground, connector, sensor and plug in the control system has to be perfect with no resistance problems. If they do you will have all sorts of weird running faults. Some of which you may not or ever even notice. Work through the EFI system proving each part using logic. | ||
| Portero72 |
Well. For now, I am chalking up most of my issues to a bad ECM. In an effort to check everything free of cost before I started throwing parts at it, I took out the EBR ECM and replaced it w/ my stock one. I have ridden it about 100 miles since the switch, and the only problem now is an occasional wacky idle. At times it hangs up high, other times it surges. At speed though, the bike is running great. My ECM had been relocated, but did have a few thousand miles on the EBR unit in the original location. It has shown a tiny crack in the connector area for quite some time, but never acted up till now. Perhaps the small cracks began a process that vibration helped bring to conclusion. OR.....Naxtel has been correct the whole time, and it was bad gas that got worked through the system. I can always switch ECMs later and check.  | ||
| Fordhotline |
Sounds like almost what i am feeling with mine. Thought it was bad gas related. Acts up more when hot. Happened once before and i swapped plugs, changed intake seals, and reset the tps a dozen times. Finally straightened out. But only to be back again. | ||
| Portero72 |
Just for kicks, I re-swapped ECMs on a ride today. Been enjoying a trouble free Uly with the stock ECM recently. Put the(crack visible) EBR unit in for a few miles this morning and yep, back to lurching and stumbling. Guess it is just damaged. I may just try learning Tunerpro and tune it a bit for smoothness. | ||
| Uly_man |
Each time you change out a ECM you will need to do the TPS reset ie twist throttle and such for the 08 plus bikes. | ||
| Portero72 |
I did the TPS reset, every time. The stock ECM is functioning well and is in there for the foreseeable future(especially after you help me tune it  ). I suppose the EBR unit has cracks in the circuitry that show up while riding. Such is life... |
