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Author Message   Jessemc Posted on Monday, July 30, 2012 - 12:46 pm:        I've read the service manual and many helpful posts here about the swap and I've got a question/observation. How come no one recommends (or specifically advises against) a pinpoint application of heat to the primary sprocket nut to release the factory-applied Loctite before disassembly? I'm going to switch to the XB9 primary gearing on my '06 Uly later this week after I pick up a primary cover gasket at New Castle HD.   Ratbuell Posted on Monday, July 30, 2012 - 01:45 pm:        Because with the proper locking bar, the primary isn't going to move anyway.   Jessemc Posted on Monday, July 30, 2012 - 02:34 pm:        Ratbuell, the way I'm looking at it is that releasing the bond the loctite creates will result in less force needing to be applied to turn the nut counterclockwise and less force on the locking bar. The loctite on the threads increases the effective torque of the tightened nut.   Andymnelson Posted on Monday, July 30, 2012 - 02:42 pm:        I think it's simply not necessary....that's why. It really was not that hard to break loose on the 2 bikes I've pulled apart.   Tootal Posted on Monday, July 30, 2012 - 10:10 pm:        I agree, it's not worth it. Putting heat on an oily part will cause smoke, maybe flame and if too much is used you can change the metalurgy of the nut. A breaker bar will break it loose if you lock up the primary sprockets.   Portero72 Posted on Monday, July 30, 2012 - 10:37 pm:        I used a 2 foot breaker on my 09 and was surprised at how easy it came off.   Jessemc Posted on Tuesday, July 31, 2012 - 07:20 am:        I've got a four foot long pipe to slide over the ratchet handle, so I'm set. Thanks for the replies.   Ratbuell Posted on Tuesday, July 31, 2012 - 08:06 am:        You're putting 200 lb-ft on the nut when you tighten it (or something equally silly; I don't have my manual in front of me). A little "red" isn't going to make or break the loosening process...it's just there to keep the piece from vibrating off in normal use.   Rdkingryder Posted on Tuesday, July 31, 2012 - 07:29 pm:        Torque values are different for the 06-07 and the 08 and up.   Ratbuell Posted on Tuesday, July 31, 2012 - 08:07 pm:        He says he has an 06. From my 06 manual: a. Install SPROCKET LOCKING LINK (Part No. HD- 38362). b. Apply two or three drops of LOCTITE 272 (red) onto threads of sprocket shaft. c. Install engine sprocket nut. Tighten to 190-210 ft-lbs (257.6-284.7 Nm). As I said above...200 lb-ft or something silly.   Rdkingryder Posted on Tuesday, July 31, 2012 - 08:17 pm:        Yes, my old '07 crank was 200ftlbs, the 08 crank I installed was 165ft.lbs iirc.   Jessemc Posted on Tuesday, July 31, 2012 - 09:44 pm:        In one of the threads about the swap someone wrote that Buell issued a service bulletin upping the sprocket nut torque to 240 - 260 ft/lbs for the pre '08's. The 210 ft/lbs was not enough to prevent the nut backing off in some circumstances. The '08 and later models have a plate with locking bolts to prevent backoff.   Rdkingryder Posted on Tuesday, July 31, 2012 - 11:18 pm:        07 crank uses nut. 08 crank uses bolt.   Jessemc Posted on Wednesday, August 01, 2012 - 08:05 am:        Pictures don't lie, Rdkingryder Been looking at too many threads on the swap! When I wrote about the plate with locking bolt I was confusing Jim's MegaNut mentioned in one of the swap threads for the '08+ standard part. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/327 77/493265.html?1253981117

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