| Author | Message | ||
     Xlcaferacer13 |
I already posted in the main section but I thought I'd come to the dirty boy section and seek some help. Yesterday I went to start up my '07 Uly and I got the usual guage sweep but the sound from the fuel pump priming was non-existant. So, obviously I wasn't riding to work. The check engine light is not on which wouldn't matter because I don't have a scan tool anyway. By reading the book it seems to be pointing me to either the ecm or a bad fuel pump. Is there a way to hook up a battery to the fuel pump directly in order to see if it does work. Or am I looking in the wrong direction. I have already checked fuses and they are not the culprit. I live 200 miles from the nearest dealer, so any thoughts or suggestions would be helpful as I don't want to spend $360 on a fuel pump if I don't need to. Thanks! | ||
| Desert_bird |
You've failed to provide the most important piece of diagnostic information. What happened when you tried to start the bike? | ||
| Uly_man |
 This is from the 06 Uly diagram. You should be able to test it with this anyway. Did you check the kill switch? Yes I know but it does/can happen. (Message edited by uly_man on May 19, 2012) | ||
| Xlcaferacer13 |
Hmmm.... kill switch, interesting thought. But yep I sure did. Thanks for the input and the diagram. Anybody else have some interesting thoughts? I'm open to any and all suggestions because sometimes even the most obvious things aren't that obvious. Heading back into the garage this evening after my honeydos are done, so keep the suggestions coming. thanks | ||
| Thejosh |
Had that happen to me, freaked me out... Someone engaged the kill switch and put it in gear. I would say that if it cranks over, start suspecting the fuel pump, if not, check all the safety switches, even though they may look good, check to make sure the kill/side stand/clutch switches are working.....just my suggestion, hope this helps. | ||
| Xlcaferacer13 |
Oh yeah "what happened when I tried to start the bike?" Well, she (Consuela is her name) turned over and cranked just like she wanted to start but didn't. Just not getting fuel. | ||
| Uly_man |
The engine cranks so that sounds like a good start to the problem. Try and prove the pump on the bike at GY and BN/Y. If it still does not run remove the pump and check again on the pump terminals as well as any cable damage which has been reported in the past. If your very lucky it may be a simple fix. Good luck. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Not unusual to have a broken wire in the bundle around the steering head... Especially if you messed with stuff under the flyscreen (adding horns or HID's). Did you try sweeping the bars right to left and see if you hear the pump kick on? It's not hard to check or repair. | ||
| Xlcaferacer13 |
Fully rewired from headlight to tailight about 5,000 miles ago under warranty and everything as far as wires seems to be in really good shape. Lets keep in mind that I get no check engine light when the key is the key is turned on. In the main tech question board that I also posted on,Froggy (who through all my years of lurking here seems to be a pretty smart dude) says that if I get no check engine light then the ecm is probably the culprit. This makes really good sense do to where it is located and the fact that it is not telling you there is a problem. So does any one else have experience with this issue? Lets hear it. | ||
| Froggy |
I posted this in your other thread, I suspect a ECM damage or no ECM power issue: The check engine light not coming on means the ECM is not powering up, and the ECM is what turns on the fuel pump, so your pump is probably fine. If a dealer tried to plug in, they wouldn't even get no codes, as it wont connect at all. Either your ECM is broken, or the ECM is not getting power (bad ground?) | ||
| Etennuly |
Un plug the ECM, twist the plugs one turn one way or the other, and plug them back in. I have seen the power wire to the bars and cluster fail in more than one bike, this is the three into one splice in the steering neck area. It can look and feel perfect until you cut the final insulation off to the bare splice. If the wiring harness was replaced 5,000 miles ago it could be about the time for this splice to let go. Failure of the triple splice would not be uncommon in low mileage harness'. The ground wires on the front of steering neck, behind the headlights, can kill power to the stuff in the front also. | ||
| Xlcaferacer13 |
Finally found time to test fuel pump and it does work when hooked directly to power. All grounds seem tight and nothing seems wrong on the wiring side of things with all connections solid. I'm leaning strongly toward Froggy's opinion because it makes sense. The only thing confusing me is, can the gauges still cycle when the key is turned on if the ecm is bad? | ||
| Etennuly |
Yes they can. The gages can also work if the wire to the switch on the bars has failed, and if one of the front ground wires has broken off. | ||
| Garrcano |
The gauges cycles when the display gets power directly from the Key Switch Relay, not controlled by the ECM in this moment. | ||
| Uly_man |
"Fully rewired from headlight to tailight about 5,000 miles ago under warranty and everything as far as wires seems to be in really good shape. Lets keep in mind that I get no check engine light when the key is the key is turned on. In the main tech question board that I also posted on,Froggy (who through all my years of lurking here seems to be a pretty smart dude) says that if I get no check engine light then the ecm is probably the culprit. This makes really good sense do to where it is located and the fact that it is not telling you there is a problem. So does any one else have experience with this issue? Lets hear it." It might have helped if you had mentioned all of this the first time around? "Lets keep in mind that I get no check engine light when the key is the key is turned on." Key on will give you a "CEL check" but if that does not happen then you have a problem. The lamp is also know to blow as well. You also did not mention the first time post that it cranked over either. (Message edited by uly_man on May 20, 2012) | ||
| Xlcaferacer13 |
So, after all my searching I am leaning towards a bad ecm. Now the question is Do I go with a stock ecm or the EBR ecm? The only mod I have is a k&n filter in the stock box so is the EBR worth the $$$? | ||
| Rdkingryder |
This may be a stupid question, but is the fuse good? | ||
| Froggy |
I agree, check the fuses first before going nuts. If you need an ECM to swap in for diagnostic purposes, send me a PM with your address, I'm sure I have a compatible one laying around. | ||
| Xlcaferacer13 |
Definately not a bad fuse. I broke out the meter last night and have followed all the steps in the shop manual for no check engine light and every step leads me to a bad ecm. So I think I'm going to try and find a stock one for now as times are a bit tight and as much as I would like an EBR, I would enjoy putting gas in the bike and just riding a lot more. Thanks for all the suggestions. | ||
| Danair |
Is there a spec for fuel pressure and a way to check it? Bike running lean and no intake leaks. Fuel pump runs fast for a second and then sounds normal. | ||
| Blitzer454 |
If you're feeling adventurous you could try repairing the ECM. When my ECM failed on the road it did the same thing. Gauges worked normally, but no sound from the fuel pump when I turned the key on. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/673617.html?1334364964 |
