| Author | Message | ||
     Astroman7766 |
So my actuator is infact failed - 2007 Ully with approx 18.5k miles. Ok, I can accept the fact that nothing lasts forever. So, I reluctantly called the local HD shop (located in Murf, TN) last week to order another one (and they arent cheap either - $168!!) Yesterday I figured i would call back just to see how the order was going and if they could tellme when the part may arrive - I have been holding off on riding until this has been fixed - I like things to be right, not half-assed. So I call and the parts guy tells me the part is backordered....indefinitely!! WTF!! I guess 7 years parts and service doesnt mean that to HD... I was disappointed at the time...now I am starting to get pissed.... Anyone know where I can get a "good" unit, not the old POS version like you see on fleabay?... | ||
| Ejbeert |
time to call american sport bike | ||
| Union_man |
There is no reason that you can't ride the bike. If it failed closed you may not even notice it. (depending on how hard you ride) If it failed open (not as likely) it may not have as much grunt down low. Ride it while you wait. If you want. Have you tried American Sportbike? They are great! | ||
| Motorcyclemike |
If your bike has under 18,640 miles, it's still covered by the emissions warranty. I'm pretty sure they have to repair the bike in a reasonable time frame. | ||
| Trojan |
If it failed open (not as likely) it may not have as much grunt down low. You wouldn't even notice. This valve was there more for noise reduction than power and makes little or no difference. Leave the valve open and fit an emulator http://www.trojan-horse.co.uk/prods/97.html then you can unplug the entire valve assembly without triggering the engine warning light  | ||
| Astroman7766 |
Thx for the replies - I am pretty sure american sport bike doesnt sell the actuator. As for riding, yeah, I know, but the idiot light is on and I dont like idea of it being on as me ASSuming that its the actuator thats failed when the possibility of something else being wrong is there...probably a pretty damn small chance of that though... Since riding with the actuator failed I did notice a drop in power - and the sound changed as you said - much quieter now, esp at WOT. I dont have the $$ right now to get a drummer - thats really what I want, but to get full effect I gotta do the ECM too, etc, etc... As for the miles, I didnt know about the emissions warranty - I am now at 18,8xx so I just missed it... | ||
| Johnboy777 |
Mine failed and I wired it open, and it has been that way for 3 years now. The muffler valve is a brilliant solution to no problem, just more things that can go wrong.  Here's an overview of our mufflers   | ||
| Etennuly |
Wow! I saw a diagram of my step-dad's heart drawn by a cardiologist that looked just like that! Amazing!  | ||
| Johnboy777 |
""Wow! I saw a diagram of my step-dad's heart drawn by a cardiologist that looked just like that!"" The heart of a biker. Hey ET, heard a good one today (gotta love Bob and Tom) ... Q. What's the difference between a Hoover and a Harley. A. The position of the dirt bag.? . | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Valve open: wide open throttle *WOT* Valve closed: less than WOT If you ride just normally then wiring open will lower bottom end grunt somewhat because of the lessened back pressure on the exhaust. I wrote about watching that actuator work probably 3 years ago. I rode with the air box cover off and found it took full hard throttle to get that actuator to operate. Normal riding would not cause that actuator to open, you had to WOT that throttle to ever get that thing to open that muffler valve. I really don't ride WOT so I would be better off having the valve permanently shut than always open. My ULY's actuator will probably never wear out since it rarely activates. Johnboy, Did your mpg change at all? | ||
| Johnboy777 |
""Johnboy, Did your mpg change at all?"" I don't think I've ever checked my MPG. I get around 135-139 miles per tank - I did fatten up my maps, though. I think they set these up way too lean for an air-cool motor to begin with. Maybe EPA Mumbo-Jumbo. BTW, I seldom crack 185-190deg on your thermometer, so it seems to runner cooler a little fatter, which I think is a good thing for the engine. . | ||
| Johnboy777 |
One more thing, I painted a Popsicle stick white then glued it to the metal half-moon thingy on the actuator - very easy to see it operating (peripherally) as you're flying down the road. Mine operated less than WOT at times. . | ||
| Towpro |
Steps in The Motor Company "just in time" inventory system. call the dealer, ask for a part = dealer stocks nothing that is not chrome or cloth. They call HD and order the part = HD stocks nothing. HD orders it from the manufacture = But since Manufacture no longer needs to run full time production to keep up with HD new bike production lines, they wait until they have enough orders to warrant a production run to make that part. This is Back-ordered. Now if the manufacture has a new design, (or even a different manufacture I think) the old part is superseded to new part number. (which should be indicated in HD books). Now if the manufacture goes out of businesses and they can't find someone else to make them, the part number becomes obsolete. But if the part is one without much demand (muffler actuator?) you might have to wait a while until manufacture decides the order is large enough to make a production run. This might be called back-ordered indefinitely, but I don't think that is a term they use. This even comes into play on some maintenance parts that only fit Buells, like belts. But some places (American Sport Bikes) orders enough inventory to carry him through the time it takes for back orders to be filled. AT least this is how I believe it works, but I am not an expert. I know I went through this to buy a seat. Fist it was back ordered for several months, (which felt like indefinitely) then a new batch came in that was just enough to fill back orders because a week later the part was again "back ordered". | ||
| Rwcfrank |
The old one was discontinued and your parts person may not have caught the new part number which is the same with an extra "A" at the end. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Wow! I saw a diagram of my step-dad's heart drawn by a cardiologist that looked just like that! Too bad you can't just replace an actuator or pull a cable open instead of doing bypass surgery. DAMHIK. | ||
| Cerk26 |
Whoa, is that emissions mileage warranty period accurate?? I'm only at 11,000 and mine went out. The bike is out of warranty, but can I actually get the exhaust valve for nada? I'm half tempted at this point to just buy that emulator and remove the damn thing altogether. All I really want is that CEL gone. (Message edited by cerk26 on September 14, 2011) | ||
| Ourdee |
eBr race ECM = no CEL. You could turn the can into a drummer. Then order the ECM programmed for it. Post an add in the parts wanted section for one here: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/21/ 1022.html?1316032465 | ||
| Froggy |
Given that the actuator is a noise control device, it shouldn't be hard to get it covered assuming you are in the 5 year 30,000KM period. | ||
| Kublak |
You guys got further than me. My 08 UlyXT had 10 miles on it when I picked it up, well at 50 miles the idiot light was coming on and it was stalling. I ended up needing a new actuator, ECM, and Milwaukee had to overnight a new exhaust to my dealer. Obviously under warranty, but I was pissed that I had a brand new bike that was bunk. I had a Honda for 7 years prior and did nothing but routine maintenance. I had a long headache while my local dealer's Buell techs figured it out(dealer and techs were outstanding). And customer service at HD was worthless!! | ||
| Cerk26 |
Wow Froggy that's great news. Off to call the local HD guys...any recommendations for Buell friendly service in Chicagoland? (Message edited by cerk26 on September 14, 2011) | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
LOL Kublak! my 2008 didn't get me home the first day either. With 7 miles on the clock, I headed out of the lot with it running rough. I finally realized it wasn't going to get any better as it warmed up so I turned around. Rear plug was fouled. My theory is the dealer kept starting it up to show off how it sounded or something. | ||
| Johnboy777 |
"Obviously under warranty, but I was pissed that I had a brand new bike that was bunk. I had a Honda for 7 years prior and did nothing but routine maintenance."" I think you are missing the point here. Your Honda lacked what we Buell owners call 'Character'. This 'Character' (which all Buell’s have) was carefully and painstakingly designed into our bikes. Superior engineering was hard at work making sure that us Buell owners would be elbows deep into the bowels of our bikes, relocating ECM's, fixing 77 Connectors, tracking down jerky low RPM stumbles and fixing all of those pesky oil leaks. All things that most manufactures dealt with decades ago. But Buell, in its infinite wisdom, realized that we needed this very experience to bond with our bikes. It's all part of the master plan, my friend. Welcome aboard. ... | ||
| Panhead_dan |
This reminds me of my panhead. | ||
| Gunut75 |
My valve is wired open. Runs fine with no loss of low end for 6k miles now. Cant wait to get it tuned! | ||
| Astroman7766 |
UPDATE - Well, the local HD dealer called the house yesterday and talked with the warden. She told me that he said he tracked down the actuator and said it would arrive mid-next week. So that is some good news if it happens. I really would like to get a drummer exh. but am not sure if after having it the noise will bother me. Thanks to all u guys for your input/help on this. It's kinda funny how the unit failed right when it did...I was riding with a couple of friends thru the Smokies (Ocee River, Tellico, Cherohala Skyway, and Deals Gap) when the CEL went on...and my mileage was below the 18641 miles - but since I didnt know what the code was and I needed to get home, I guess it didnt matter - timing is everything! | ||
| Astroman7766 |
Johnboy777 - I see you wired the actuator open - but I dont see the cable. Did you remove it? If so, what is going on with the valve in the can itself?... If all this doesnt work out with a new unit, I might try this.. And on another note - you guys talked about mileage...I usually go approx 160mi or more before the low fuel light comes on...if I remember correctly... | ||
| Johnboy777 |
Johnboy777 - I see you wired the actuator open - but I dont see the cable. Did you remove it? If so, what is going on with the valve in the can itself?... If all this doesnt work out with a new unit, I might try this.. Not a good photo, sorry - the cable IS disconnected - the cable end is in that glob of RTV on the end of the bracket, in my photo. If I were doing it again I would remove the cable and simply use a lead weight (fishing line/lure/sinker, IIRC - I don't fish, so I don't know about this) to hold it open. Then just let the actuator run as intended. Although, I did shut mine off via ECMspy. I used RTV gasket sealant to hold the cable end in place with a grooved bracket I made. .... (Message edited by johnboy777 on September 15, 2011) | ||
| Johnboy777 |
This might show it better...  | ||
| Cerk26 |
Interesting. I thought at first that you removed the actuator all together and mounted that bracket in its place. Is there any other way besides a new ECM or an emulator to trick the bike into thinking the actuator is in place and functioning...getting rid of the damn CEL? Despite mine being covered by warranty, I'm still tempted to just remove it all together. | ||
| Froggy |
Use Tunerpro to turn it off the EAV like Johnboy did. |
