| Author | Message | ||
     Buellerxt |
I have avoided taking the 'next step', like the plague, because I don't want to risk dropping the bikes or getting in over my head. However, after a very bad and costly 'indy' experience, and not having a dealer I feel good about, I'm ready to consider doing tire changes, and a little more than basic maintenance, myself. Any input, pro or con, will be appreciated. I read a review for a Cycle Hill Tire Machine, $465., in the recent Motorcycle Consumer News and it sounds good, but . . .? What lift is recommended? What works well for securing the handlebars to the rafters to prevent fall overs? Anyone in the Southwest Houston area with the expertise or desire to partner on this?  Thanks. | ||
| Froggy |
I have the cycle hill, I don't recommend it. I thought it would be a home version of the nomar, but it isn't. The clamping system is junk and does not hold the wheel the same way as the nomar. It makes it very difficult to change the rubber. Either pony up for the real nomar, or get something even nicer like an air powered unit. Get pit bull stands | ||
| Buewulf |
Some ratcheting straps work well to keep the bike off of your lap. I actually roll the bike up onto two closely sized logs if I need both wheels of the ground. Tire spoons are all I have ever used to change tires. I have never used any of the tire machines, so I can't offer you an opinion on that. | ||
| Schwara |
Thanks for starting this thread. You beat me to it by about a day or two. I am at the exact same point & currently know nothing about changing my own tires and jacking up a bike like the Uly. For the No Mar changers there is a pretty big range ($645 - $1545). What is needed and what isn't? For balancing I've heard good things about Dyna Beads. Anyone have opinions? Thanks | ||
| Froggy |
Needed: Something to break the bead, something to pry rubber off, something to push the rubber on. All the various Normar/Cyclehill setups have everything you will need to remove and replace a tire, including the cheapest package. The extra packages add more tools and accessories to help with the tire change. The only really needed thing thats not in the base cycle hill package is the balancer. Don't bother with dynabeads, they don't work. | ||
| Buewulf |
I've tried the Dyna Beads before and found them to be completely ineffective. Balanced the tire with some weights and it was smooth as butter. I guy I ride with swears by the Dyna Beads, though. But I've ridden his bike, and he needs to balance his tires. My humble opinion. | ||
| Firstbatch |
I 've been using the Harbor Freight Tire Changer for years and it works great. You need to use the Mojo Lever http://home.comcast.net/~prestondrake/mojoweb.htm and mojo blocks and have no fear of any scratching http://home.comcast.net/~prestondrake/mojoblocks.h tm I like the Trex stands. Check this thread http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/334195.html | ||
| Argentcorvid |
HF doesn't sell the "motorcycle" attachment for their tire changer anymore. It's needed to grip the rim of the wheel instead of going through the bearings. | ||
| Etennuly |
I have and use one of the cheap POS tire machines from Harbor Freight. Is it easy to use? No. Does it do the job? Yes, but you have to know how it should work and how to change tires properly in order to fudge as needed to make this machine work. It needs to be solidly mounted to something. I welded mine to an old work trailer so it can be moved around as needed. It also requires a fair amount of modifying of it's tire mounting bar, or obtaining a mounting bar like the NO-Mar bar. Also it helps to know how to pad and use spoon bars. As a business owner I can not make economic sense of purchasing a $400+ tire machine when I am only changing a half dozen tires a year. Sending them out from my location usually means a couple of fifty mile round trips. Don't forget the lube. Easiest to obtain, least expensive, and makes your hands clean is DAWN dish detergent. Liberal use 50/50 with water is good. Even in my shop I use a simple lift. Generally I use a cement block with a board on either end of the muffler to lift the wheel I am working on just off the ground for removal while the opposite tire and the side stand act as the legs of a tripod. I have several jacks and lifts, but I found this is quick and easy without tying up a jack that could be doing other stuff. It is best to always loosen all of the necessary bolts before putting the bike on a block. Just tip it up on the side stand lifting the front tire off the ground and slide the block with a board under the muffler at which ever end you want to lift. | ||
| Reepicheep |
For tire changes, I'd recommend you start by watching somebody else do it, or do yours on their setup. We (neighbor and another buddy) went in on a Harbor Freight setup, and I welded up a bracket so it will mount on the rear trailer hitch of the neighbors F150. It ends up being just a big clamp, we use spoons for everything else. We never learned to use the bar (maybe it's us). That, and we also use the bead breaker base. I can and have done it with a 5 gallon bucket and two $7 motion pro tire spoons, and something to break the bead (vise, another bike kick stand, get creative). It can be messy and frustrating in the middle, but satisfying at the end of the day. I use a floor jack on the exhaust can, a piece of rebar through the axle I am not removing, and two jack stands. Alex showed me a nice trick with just the floor jack and the side stand as well. Gets a bit more exciting, but works fine. | ||
| Buellerxt |
You are a BIG spender, Froggy! Nothing wrong with that, and using the best equipment is always nice, but I don't change enough tires to make those expenditures reasonable. From the responses it looks like changing tires is not a trivial undertaking without first class equipment. Just curious, what are the top 3-5 uses of 'bike stands' like the Pit Bull's? Thanks. | ||
| Mnrider |
 Here's the Craftsman M/C jack. Works good to lift the whole bike for tire and fork work. Those are canoe carrier pads and use the straps to the seats rails to secure the bike. | ||
| Buellerxt |
Buewulf, any plans to change any tires in the near future? I'd like to watch/help if you don't mind. I like your cost structure! We could talk a little 'drilling' as well. (Message edited by buellerxt on September 02, 2011) | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
I have a fellow MSF instructor buddy with a no-mar and he changes and balances a wheel for 20 bucks. Takes him about 40 minutes max for the back tire. He gets rid of the spent tire also. Don't have room for a no-mar but it sure is nice. I've entertained the idea of purchasing just the big no-mar tire levers for doing scratch free tire changing myself. I've busted the bead on many a tire with just a large C-clamp or my bench vice. Use a worn out tire to keep the wheel I'm working on off the ground. Balancing a wheel is no big deal either. I've just been hesitant up to this point in causing any damage to the Buells nice rims so I've taken them to my buddy with the no-mar. | ||
| Schwara |
You don't have a buddy on the NE side of Cincy who does tires do you? I'ld have a lot of trouble justifying $650 if I could get them done for $20 a piece ... besides the fact that I would much prefer to have somebody walk me through it before trying it myself. | ||
| Froggy |
Yet aren't I the one that gets 10 times more tire life than you? I still use mine monthly, in fact I'll be doing the 1125CR tonight. I broke even on the cycle hill within 48 hours of owning it
They also come in handy pretty much anytime you need to keep the bike upright, and the extra few inches a lift makes it easier to work on in general. | ||
| Od_cleaver |
I have the No-Mar Classic changer. Breaking the bead with the changer is easy, straight forward, doesn’t require a lot of technique. Clamping the wheel into the changer with No-Mar’s cam and dog blocks can be a pain. The Uly’s tires are not too bad once you select the right holes and positions for the cam and dog blocks. It gets to be a real pain when you do a heavier touring tire. The side walls of the touring tire are stiffer. No-Mar’s “Posi-Clamps” look like they would make clamping the wheel easier. Demounting a tire is pretty easy. Once the wheel is clamped securely in the No-Mar, I can usually spin on the first side of the tire without a problem using no tools. Getting that second side/bead of the tire on requires some technique. Less technique for a Uly tire and more technique for a touring tire. I have been able to use No-Mar’s Mount/Demount bar to put on the second side/bead of a Uly tire, but not a touring tire. For a touring tire I use their spoon bars. I also purchase No-Mar’s “Yellow Thing” to keep the partially mounted second bead from popping off the wheel. I have the receiver hitch mount option. It works okay. However, I keep expecting that one of these times I will be putting a tool thru the rear window of my jeep. True to No-Mar’s claim, I have not scratched a wheel yet. Bad technique could still result in a scratched a wheel. No-Mar has some good videos on their site. | ||
| Ejbeert |
random thoughts go to buell .com find a hd dealer that still services buell, take the wheels and tires off yourself and let the dealer do the change. I have done that for years with my electraglides with good results. Maybe even talk to the service manager face to face first; if you get a good vib if they take you back in the service area to proudly show you how they are-- plus plus. You can do the same with an indy shop my experience is that if they are proud of their work and have some time they will love to show off. If you do this you need a service manual, the stencil to make the muffler crib and just do a search of bad web. dont forget your bearings and maybe the 2010 wheel, lube the axels if you are going to do the whole thang u tube and google search is your friend; as well as bmw sites, adventure rider hall of wisdom, and buell owners info' if you want to do this on the cheep and manualy, that is how I did mine at first; a bead popper, tire irons three, rim protectors from dennis kirk or rider wearhouse, a 20 lb dead blow rubber mallet sears, milk crate and or large bucket and some lube, dish soap or go to no mar and buy their stuff. Nomar is a good source of info good to call and talk trash. People like to say how easy this is or how quick it can be but if it takes me an afternoon---- and any way if I need a break there is still that electrglide | ||
| Reepicheep |
I'm in lebanon Schwara, not far. Drop me a note the next time you have tires to spoon on, come over, and I'll be happy to walk you through it. The bad news is I scratch wheels. The good news is I do it for free, while your dealer charges you to do it.  Good point OD, I thats why we put the mount on the neighbors old F150, instead of my Saab. I would definately have launched a spoon through a back window by now on the Saab. | ||
| Buewulf |
Buellerxt, The rubber is pretty fresh right now. Frankly, I haven't put the last two tires on. A friend sent me to a place off of 45 north of the beltway. I bring the wheel and tire and $15, and they mount and balance.so wort h it. We can get together anytime to talk bikes drilling or whatever. | ||
| Froggy |
Except they don't, they are garbage. They clamp the wheel fine, but they don't mount securely to the tire changer, so when you start to apply pressure, they pop off the machine forcing you to stop and undo the clamp, re-position it, do it again, and then have it pop off a minute later. Then they do a terrible job actually holding the wheel, as you use the mount tool, the wheel spins with you because they do not hold it still. I contacted Nomar about this, they said there was nothing wrong with the setup. | ||
| Teeps |
I've changed thousands of motorcycle tires with tire spoons and 35 gallon grease barrel to hold the wheel. If I didn't have free access to a machine like this: http://www.derekweaver.com/update/Hofmann_1520M_Mo torcycle_Tire_Changer_Motorcycle_Tire_Changers_Pro duct.aspx?id=44 I'd take the wheels off myself and have a shop change the tires. But that's just me... | ||
| Pontlee77 |
I take the wheels off take them to a shop with the new tyres and they charge me 20$ per wheel including the balancing, and that is taking the tyres i purchase from the net a lot cheaper than the shops. | ||
| Prior |
Froggy, I've not had that issue with my Cycle Hill changer. Done 10 or so tires on it (and have an old set of tuber rims and tires I practice with on occastion) and once I figured out the pressure needed to hold the rim in, I've been good to go. I do clean the rims real well before putting them on though- found that dust and any stray lube or water definitely makes things slip. I love the thing, definitely worth the entry price. | ||
| Prior |
And floor jacks are perfect for changing tires... | ||
| Nvr2old |
I've been very happy with the Cycle Hill changer. No issues at all. It makes easy work of tire changes. | ||
| Wbrisett |
The only issue I've had with my Cycle Hill changer is I put a smaller diameter wheel on, tightened it up and now have of the clamps that won't readjust. I need to give NoMar a call and see what options I have (I understand they have redesigned the clamps since I bought mine). Overall, it's a nice changer that I would recommend (even if Froggy doesn't agree). I just bought the pit bull stands, so I could use them with both the Uly and 1125. I find the front lift which goes into the triple tree doesn't lift the Uly off the ground enough, so you do have to use some additional lift. I bought a bike one (similar to the Craftsman shown in this thread) from Cycle Gear on sale a couple of years ago. It works fine for me and provided me that extra level of comfort when my bike is on the pit bulls. Wayne | ||
| 1bigeasy |
I've got the CH and it's fine for what it is: a fancy wheel clamp. The job can be done with other tools/methods but I find the CH just fine, and I only change 3-4 tires per yeear. It makes sense for me because I live in BFE and the closest place that I can get a tire changed is 45 minutes each way and $40.00 to mount/balance when I bring just the rim not on the bike. I work a ton so my free time is worth A LOT to me. I can pull the rim change a tire and re-mount the thing in under 45 minutes, and I know it's done right. As for Dynabeads, I'm going to go against the elders here. I've used them on 6 bikes now for about 4 years and I have had no issues with them. Tires wear as they should and I have had no handling ill effects, and yes I've had them over 120 mph on my Z1000 and ZRX. I will also go along with the suggestion for Pit Bull stand. You can buy less expensive ones for sure. But PB is QUALITY stuff. Why save $100.00 when you're going to be trusting your bike to the stands quality? If you're around Indy and need a hand let me know. | ||
| Buellerxt |
Great input, guys. I have a lot to consider and I appreciate all the info./experience. Thanks. | ||
| Arcticktm |
I don't want to change my own tires, but the Craftsman (or similar) bike/ATV jack is a great and reasonable cost way to lift both wheels, as long as you don't need to remove the muffler. there was a template on Badweb (where?) that I used to make a box of some scrap 2x4's. Using a jigsaw, the boards fit my muffler contour perfectly. I put some heavy weatherstripping on the top of the contoured boards to keep from scratching the muffler paint, and also help keep the bike stable side to side. Throw a couple tie downs from the bars or frame onto the hooks on the jack, and you have a very stable lifted bike that you can still roll around the garage with both wheels off the ground. Easy and quick, and cost be about $4 (since I already had the bike/ATV jack). |
