| Author | Message | ||
     Cerk26 |
What a weekend...heavy rain chased us back home from a weekend trip. I wound up riding about 110 miles through some of the worst rain I've been in on two wheels. We had to pull over three times because we just couldn't see anything. Anyway, just before I got home the CEL came on. I didn't think much of it yesterday as I just wanted to get dry...started the bike up today, turned the key and it cycles normally, CEL turns off and then pops right back on. I tried doing the TPS reset just in case (it's an '08 XT, 11k miles) but no dice. The bike got absolutely soaked in the rain yesterday and I used the heated grips most of the way back as it got pretty damn cold. Seems to be running just fine. I haven't noticed any performance issues or any indication at all that something isn't right. Where do I start with troubleshooting? Are the lights on the Buells legit? My old Aprilia had service interval CEL notifications that I used to just reset and forget about. I did some research and saw that the exhaust actuator has been an issue. I'm in the Chicago area if anyone can lend a hand. Thanks in advance... (Message edited by cerk26 on September 04, 2011) | ||
| Froggy |
The light turning off than coming back on and staying on means you have a current fault, not a historic one, so you are still having the issue. While it probably is the actuator, follow the procedure for jumping the pins on the diagnostic connector to read the code. | ||
| Cerk26 |
Ok, I just pulled the airbox cover to have a look at the actuator. I tried doing the active test, holding the throttle wide open and turning the ignition key to the on position to activate the actuator...nothing moved. As a matter of fact, there's an audible "whirring" coming from the actuator...maybe it always does it but I've certainly never noticed it before. ...also, when I turned the key to the on position with the throttle WO the check engine light flashed in one second intervals, off and on. When I closed the throttle it returned to the static lit position. Does that mean anything? I saw the pin jumper protocol, what are you guys using to jump the pins though? I'm still searching for that. | ||
| Cerk26 |
Never mind, found it. | ||
| Cerk26 |
Yep. Code 21, exhaust actuator. So when these things go that's pretty much it right? There's not fixing them? It looks like you can still ride the bike in the mean time from what I've read. Guess I'll be heading over to American Sport Bike and putting in an order. The install looks pretty straight forward from what I can see. I don't have a service manual yet...is the whole process done right there on the air box? | ||
| Cerk26 |
...on a side note, if I'm going to grab a Drummer exhaust is it even worth fixing? Maybe I'll just ride around with a CEL for the rest of this season. It doesn't seem like it hurts anything to leave it be. What's the best setting to leave the actuator to if it's not working (open/closed)? Also, I didn't find the actuator on American Sport Bike, are you guys still going through dealers for the replacement? (Message edited by cerk26 on September 04, 2011) | ||
| Froggy |
Cool, at least it confirms our suspicions, and it isn't something worse.
Correct, some bikes have plastic gears in the actuator, and they can easily be damaged from a little binding, especially if the exhaust cable isn't lubricated.
Yep, it isn't mission critical.
Yep. Remove screws. Disconnect cables, reverse to install.
In my opinion if you are going to get a drummer, you are best off not replacing it. Get a Erik Buell Racing Race ECM with programming for the Drummer, it wakes the bike up and makes it run better, and it won't throw a trouble code for the actuator.
Closed, as thats the default exhaust setting, so you will not notice any difference 95% of the time, it only opens during hard acceleration, but if you open it you will lose day to day low end power.
American Sport Bike only has a limited selection of OEM parts, your best bet is a dealer in this case or Ebay, as they are $180 new. | ||
| Cerk26 |
Thanks Froggy. Very much appreciated. I took a quick look on ebay and there seem to be quite a few of them around but they're all older parts. Will any of the '04+ XB12 actuators work for my '08, knowing of course that I'm getting the same 'ole plastic geared bound to break again unit? They're going for $50 - $100 at the moment. Option 2 is to just ride around with my CEL on through the end of the season, apply the coin for this fix to an upgraded exhaust and forget the thing ever existed. ...so did everyone that swapped to a Drummer get an immediate CEL until an ECM upgrade was made? (Message edited by cerk26 on September 04, 2011) | ||
| Tootal |
The ones with the plastic gears are screwed together and you can take them apart. Once apart you could removed the binding and worn gears to free the unit up and then reassemble it. This way it will move through it's designated movement and not throw the code. Your exhaust won't move but you shouldn't get the code. This is theory by the way, I replaced mine with a new model. You could also wire your exhaust open and see what you think. Some bikes are more affected by this than others. You obviously want more sound and that would give you a little more of that! | ||
| Cerk26 |
Where did you get your new actuator? I'm trying to decide if I'm even going to replace it, or just let it be for the remainder of the season and throw it in the garbage after an exhaust swap...that said, I've only been able to find used/old examples of the actuator. Nothing new or upgraded. | ||
| Ourdee |
Let see, 180 for an actuator or 250 for an ECM from Erik Buell Racing. My eBr ECM will not throw a CEL for the actuator. Your call. I'd get an ECM and a fleebay actuator | ||
| Cerk26 |
Any of the old xb12 actuators will work right? | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
If it's broken anyways, you really have nothing to lose in trying to open it up and fix it. That's my general attitude anyways. Is the cable ok? perhaps the motor and gears are ok but are trying to pull on a ball of mangled rust down there. | ||
| Cerk26 |
I haven't checked the bottom of the cable, top looks fine. The actuator isn't doing a thing. It just sits still and whirs when I do an active test on the thing. I'm starting to lean towards just not doing anything with it and just moving to a Drummer and an ECM. |
