Author |
Message |
Portero72
| Posted on Sunday, May 29, 2011 - 04:09 pm: |
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Didn't realize how Herculean my forearms were till i stripped threads on the the 4 o'clock hole on the clutch adjustment cover. Haven't had a chance to ride/inspect it to see if it will leak, but I assume that is a foregone conclusion. Any ideas on how to snug it down? |
Kirsch1632
| Posted on Sunday, May 29, 2011 - 04:50 pm: |
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Try a longer bolt. Just make sure that its not to long and bottoms out. Otherwise a heli-coil is probably the best option. Good Luck |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Sunday, May 29, 2011 - 06:15 pm: |
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Never use more than a screwdriver. Even a 1/4" ratchet gives too much torque. Its not pressurized in there so you don't have to put your shoulder onto it. +1 on the helicoil. Do all 3 while you're there. |
Natexlh1000
| Posted on Sunday, May 29, 2011 - 06:19 pm: |
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Remember that the oil in the tranny isn't under pressure so you don't need it to be crazy tight. Just tight enough to keep it from rattling loose. Take a look at the aluminum cover in there perhaps you still have some threads further inside. If so, Kirsch's idea might be a winner. You might need to trim a long bolt to fit just right to avoid over-insertion. And take it easy on the Spinach when you're working on your bike!
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Panhead_dan
| Posted on Sunday, May 29, 2011 - 08:20 pm: |
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I stripped the 8 oclock one and helicoiled it. Now I have a weep I'm ignoring for now. |
Paint_shaker
| Posted on Sunday, May 29, 2011 - 08:35 pm: |
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If you doing nothing, it will most likely weep a bit. I tapped to the next larger size and ended up stripping it out again. Ended up heli-coiling to the original sie. Works with no leak/weep. |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Monday, May 30, 2011 - 12:13 am: |
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If it weeps, put a schmear of Hylomar on both sides of the gasket, wipe the case and the cover clean, and reinstall. Hylomar = liquid duct tape for seals and gaskets |
Teeps
| Posted on Monday, May 30, 2011 - 11:24 am: |
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An old lawn mower shop trick is to flatten out the threaded end of the bolt to an oval shape. You only need to flatten the last 1/4" of the threads, and the flattened threads only need to be about 1/16" larger than the original dimension. Screw the bolt back in, the ovalized threads will cut into the metal and actually take torque. It's not pretty, not high tech; but it will work until the time comes to remove the case. You can then put a proper heil-coil or better a time-sert. |
Portero72
| Posted on Monday, May 30, 2011 - 01:36 pm: |
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Thx for the suggestions, all. Teeps-how does one go about flattening the bolt? A hammer? Ham-fisting stuff is my specialty. |
Teeps
| Posted on Monday, May 30, 2011 - 06:15 pm: |
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Yes, ball peen hammer and an anvil or like surface. I tried to load a couple of photos but can't get then shrunk enough. If you'd like do see them, send a PM with your email address. |
Portero72
| Posted on Monday, May 30, 2011 - 10:44 pm: |
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Thx, Teeps. I have a hammer and a workbench. Oh yeah, and arms of steel(I guess). Should be fine. |