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Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » BB&D Archives » Archive through June 10, 2011 » Charging issues « Previous Next »

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Yjsrule
Posted on Saturday, May 21, 2011 - 10:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok, I've been reading through a lot of old threads on here today. I have an 06 uly with 33k miles. It has a volt meter that the previous owner installed. I took off on vacation yesterday and all was well. Today we took off for a ride and I noticed the voltage was reading low. It never topped 13volts running. So we cut the day short and came back to camp to check it out. The 77 connector looks fine, I took it apart and cleaned it anyway. The stator plug looks good except one of the wires had a place where the sheath was cut from rubbing something. I fixed it.

There seems to be no foul smell from the primary, although I'm not positive what it smells like.

Anyhow. It will start at 12ish volts when just started and riding will go up to about 12.8 but that's it. I'd rather not be stranded stranded somewhere out here.

Any input would be great since I'm 250 miles from the house in the best riding country in the eastern US.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Saturday, May 21, 2011 - 11:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

First - when you unplugged the 77, was it HOT? When mine went south it was right after a hard ride and I was on the road when I checked it, so the connector was still all warm and gooey. Next morning, she was frozen solid (melted together).

Second - have you done the stator voltage test? You might have a voltage regulator going south...but if you don't catch it quick, it could snowball into "dead stator".
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Andymnelson
Posted on Saturday, May 21, 2011 - 11:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

unfortunatley , if the stator is going to take a dump, then it's going to take a dump.

if you look down a few threads, I have one titled "electrical gremlin help"- turns out the main part of my issue is a failing stator. Mine puts out about 1/2 charge. I can currently go for 7-8 rides until I don't have enough juice to start the bike. Bike stays at about 12.3 to 12.8 volts while running.

do you happen to have a volt meter with you? I can give you the simple tests to do to check your stator output.

otherwise my best advice for a poorly performing stator would be to pull the headlight fuse and keep as many accessories turned off as possible....all in hopes that your battery will have enough juice to start you the next time!
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Yjsrule
Posted on Saturday, May 21, 2011 - 11:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes I have a volt meter. I checked the ohms across the plugs. Seems fine, all were under 3. With it running When I could get it the probes I have to get contact it was about 30 amps. What else?
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Yjsrule
Posted on Sunday, May 22, 2011 - 12:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I also have an 07 STT at the house. Are the regulators the same? I guess I could try it out if the bike will make the trip home.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Sunday, May 22, 2011 - 09:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You need to start the bike, then unplug the stator connector. It's the '46' connector, located near the 77, in the picture its circled in red and the 77 in blue.





Check voltage across the pins of the 46, 1-2, 2-3, 3-1. At 2000 rpm each combination should produce between 28 and 40v AC.

Yes, AC. NOT DC.

If your AC output is in spec, either your wiring or your VR is going.

And yes, I think 06/07 VRs are the same. But doublecheck...something in the back of my brain says they changed the charging system, but I can't remember if it was in 07 or 08...and I don't have a parts book.
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Yjsrule
Posted on Sunday, May 22, 2011 - 09:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ahhh, I thought it was the triangle shaped gray connector. Ok, I'll check it out.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Sunday, May 22, 2011 - 10:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Nope. Triangle one is your cam sensor.
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Yjsrule
Posted on Sunday, May 22, 2011 - 10:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok, somewhere around 30 at 2k rpm, it's a needle type so it floats a lot. Tell me that's a good thing. Lol
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Andymnelson
Posted on Sunday, May 22, 2011 - 01:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

30 is at the low end of spec...but within spec. Mine shows 25 on 1 pair, 24 on another and 12 on the final. Here's a diagram of the charging system, so you understand the layout:



The 3 tests from the service manual to test the stator are:
1. Stator lead to ground test:
- Disconnect stator from voltage regulator
- Insert one ohmmeter lead into a stator socket.
- Attach the other lead to a suitable ground.
- Test for continuity with ohmmeter set on the RX1 scale.
- A good stator will show no continuity (∞ ohms) across all stator sockets and ground.
- Any other reading indicates a grounded stator which must be replaced.

2) Resistance check across stator sockets
- Check resistance across stator sockets 1-2, 2-3 and 3-1.
- Test for resistance with ohmmeter set on the RX1 scale.
- Resistance across the stator sockets should be 0.1- 0.3 ohms.
- If the resistance is lower, the stator is damaged and must be replaced.

3) A/C output check
- Connect an AC voltmeter across stator sockets 1-2.
- Run the engine at 2000 RPM. The AC output should be 32-40 volts AC. (approximately 16-20 volts per 1000 RPM).
- Repeat test across stator sockets 2-3 and 1-3. 2. Compare test results to specifications.
- If the output is below specifications, charging prob- lem could be a faulty rotor or stator.
b. If output is good, charging problem might be faulty regulator/rectifier. Replace as required.

From what I understand of the voltage regulator tests, they are a bit less obvious to test. But basically you want 13.5-14.5 volts output under load. I would think (but I am just thinking here....this is not conclusive stuff now : p) that you should be able to simply unplug the 77 connector and test the output under varying RPMs. Alternatively, you could test it at the battery, but that throws other possible factors into the mix.
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Yjsrule
Posted on Sunday, May 22, 2011 - 01:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yeah it's hard to read a cheap sweep gauge voltmeter while your wife is trying to keep the bike at 2k Rpms.

It was up in tue 20s at idle and swept up as Rpms increased.

Bad part is far as i can tell from a dealer the closest one is 200 miles away.
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Andymnelson
Posted on Sunday, May 22, 2011 - 01:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

you can also get an idea of AC volts by this rule of thumb: approximately 16-20 vlts per 1000 RPM.
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Yjsrule
Posted on Sunday, May 22, 2011 - 08:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So will it mess my stator up if I ride the 200 miles to pick up the closest regulator I can find?
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Ratbuell
Posted on Sunday, May 22, 2011 - 09:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I wouldn't recommend it...shipping's cheaper than a stator replacement : )
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Yjsrule
Posted on Monday, May 23, 2011 - 10:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That's what I was thinking. Have one on order.
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Yjsrule
Posted on Monday, May 30, 2011 - 09:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well I made it home, it appears that the stator charges when it wants to, but not enough to keep it charged.I rode it 300 miles today and the battery was down to 11 volts by the time I got home. Put a decent ohm meter on it and I'm getting continuity to ground through the plug. Guess my stator is fried.
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Fltwistygirl
Posted on Monday, May 30, 2011 - 10:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

How much is a new stator?
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Yjsrule
Posted on Monday, May 30, 2011 - 10:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

$130 or so I believe, cheaper than I expected, the one I want for my plated dirt bike is more expensive.
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